DIY Tailgate Power Lock using Control/Actuator from Ranger

[Telemachus]

Anybody find the harness back in stock? I check a couple of sites and no go.

A step by step video would be real helpful, I'm definitely do this mod when I get my XL. Thanks to all that contributed the great info!

You can just modify your stock cable for less than $20. See my post up above.

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[dhill59]

Two pins from locking mechanism to two wires - is there correct and wrong way to wire (like positive and negative)? Example top pin to purple wire and bottom pin to yellow wire? Or does it matter?

 

[Telemachus]

Two pins from locking mechanism to two wires - is there correct and wrong way to wire (like positive and negative)? Example top pin to purple wire and bottom pin to yellow wire? Or does it matter?

Yes it matters.

But if you have it wrong it will just work in reverse.

So if it is unlocking when you lock the car, swap the pins.

 

[Telemachus]

Taska has a picture of the B.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-wiring-assembly-tailgate-nz6z14a412b

If your local Ford dealer has it in stock, you can look at it in person before you buy it.

It is not that difficult to make your own cable either. I have made several of them now.

PM me if you want more details.

 

[Telemachus]

What didn't work?

 

[comedian_unknown]

They are backordered, aka not available.

I pulled out my connector to take a look at it. It appears to be a standard 12-pin molex connector.

This video shows clearly how to add and remove pins from this connector.



I verified that the pins on our connector are standard molex pins. I removed the red pin and easily reinserted it using a small paper clip.

I plan to add the two pins needed for the actuator and run the wires through the existing cable sheath.

Should cost a fraction of buying the cable which is now unobtainium.

There are little black plastic blockers on the rear of the connector that have to be pushed through and removed before the new molex connectors can be pushed through the waterproof gasket. You have to fully remove the white facade from the front to get these plastic pieces out. Inserting a paperclip on either side allows you to remove the white facade.

Here is the cheapest source I found for the MX150 connectors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2655059426...2jVR-qJRYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


And here is a $14 WPT-1314 connector:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3641013502...2jVR-qJRYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Depending on the extra 14-20 gauge wire you have sitting around, should be able to DIY the added wiring for ~ $20.

I still have extra MX150 molex pins left from my order. PM me and I'll drop a few in an envelope for whoever needs them.

And here is my completed DIY stock cable before:

And after:

Tha

They are backordered, aka not available.

I pulled out my connector to take a look at it. It appears to be a standard 12-pin molex connector.

This video shows clearly how to add and remove pins from this connector.



I verified that the pins on our connector are standard molex pins. I removed the red pin and easily reinserted it using a small paper clip.

I plan to add the two pins needed for the actuator and run the wires through the existing cable sheath.

Should cost a fraction of buying the cable which is now unobtainium.

There are little black plastic blockers on the rear of the connector that have to be pushed through and removed before the new molex connectors can be pushed through the waterproof gasket. You have to fully remove the white facade from the front to get these plastic pieces out. Inserting a paperclip on either side allows you to remove the white facade.

Here is the cheapest source I found for the MX150 connectors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2655059426...2jVR-qJRYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


And here is a $14 WPT-1314 connector:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3641013502...2jVR-qJRYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Depending on the extra 14-20 gauge wire you have sitting around, should be able to DIY the added wiring for ~ $20.

I still have extra MX150 molex pins left from my order. PM me and I'll drop a few in an envelope for whoever needs them.

And here is my completed DIY stock cable before:

And after:

Thank you Telemachus! I followed your instructions exactly and it worked perfectly. I was going to just order the harness from Ford but as others have mentioned, I was unable to locate one in stock. Your solution made sense, was less expensive and worked great.

 

[Sirjohn]

Part number is now NZ6Z14A412C for the harness. Price is 75.

think I’ll make my own

the wpt 1314 connector is a regular run of the mill connector for ford- airbags, washer fluid level, among other things. Your local u-pull will most likely have something that will work as it’s not a maverick specific connector.

heck you might be able to find one with wires running to a molex connector and snatch the pre terminated molex pins out. Then just add your bounty to the maverick connector and fish the wires through the stock harness and your golden.

if you wanna get real fancy you can buy Tesa tape for cheap too

 

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

Nice job! That has to at least make your XL an XLt lol. I just wanted to FYI 2 things here for informational purposes to you and everyone else out there on the details of your upgrade/install investigation work(lol). The number you saw on the part itself is the engineering number, not the service part number(this is why it is different). If your dealer has a knowledgeable parts staff, you could have called them and given them that number off your friends control and they could have crossed it to the service part number you received, or you could have given them your friends XLT vin number and said "order me a tailgate lock control(actuator) for this vin. Secondly, you may want to get a wire splice kit at your dealer to make a more weatherproof and permanent wire install on that, since it is outside of the vehicle where moisture could start corrosion in the wiring(I know its inside the tailgate, but moisture and elements will find their way in there). Ford makes wiring splice kits that include what is basically a naked(no plastic sleeve) metal butt connector that can crimp the wires together and the kit also includes weatherproof shrink tubing(it has a waxy looking soft plastic inner layer that melts as it shrinks and seals out the elements). These are sold in packs of 5 and the base part for them is 14A088 . They come in different sizes for different gauge wires, but most popular and probably the kit you would use would be the 3U2Z-14A088-AB. I've seen a lot of wires over the years that weren't sealed properly cause a lot of different issues so using a sealed shrink tube is the way to go( and the Ford recommended proper wiring repair).

 

[Mav_27]

Installed actuator about 6 months ago on my 22 XL and its been working great. Today my tailgate wouldn’t open. Took off access panel and the rods had popped out of the plastic snap holders. Anyone else have this problem and any ideas how to prevent in the future?

 

[uga]

Have heard of this happeining in high heat areas, TX, AZ, maybe even in your area.......

 

[Mav_27]

Have heard of this happeining in high heat areas, TX, AZ, maybe even in your area.......

wo see if those plastic snaps loosen from heat? Hasn’t been too hot but who knows..maybe there’s a way to glue them or some kind of lock/clamp?

 

[Telemachus]

JB Weld?

 

[Doburden]

I still have a theory that there's power to the rear of the truck in the main wiring harness for a tailgate lock actuator. According to parts diagrams for the ranger it looks like there's a shorter harness that includes plugs for the rear camera and the power lock actuator and connects into the main harness under the end of the truck bed. I'm willing to bet that if you trace back the wiring for the camera on the XL and unplug it you'll have multiple pins in the plug on the main part of the harness, two of which will be 12v and ground which are meant for a harness on an XLT or Lariat

Green harness is the shorter harness that connects to backup cam and tailgate lock actuator

Purple harness is main harness

Hi everyone interested to update XL trim to power lock tailgate.
I used parts from Amazon (see pictures) not expensive at all.
Connected to these blue and yellow wires from the main connector (as shown in the discussion).
Attached the actuator to the door frame and voila.
Have my tailgate door open and close with my remote.

 

[Telemachus]

Brilliant! Especially with complaints of the OEM unit not holding up under heat.

 

[Doburden]

We don't complain of extra heat here in Canada.

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