Your advice, is dangerous.John, RGB, Tony,
If you haven’t tried it, YOU DON’T KNOW!
I’m done…….
I know…….I said “I’m done”. And I am.Your advice, is dangerous.
Ultra miler contests were won by using skinny hard solid rubber tires, for reduced rolling resistance, just like land speed vehicles also get by using solid metal ones. Reducing the contact patch has that one good point, but the main negative one is you now are on a thin blade that literally can kill as far as cornering or braking abilities. Inflation settings are designed very specifically by manufacturers with many factors based on wheel width, vehicle weight, tire size and even ABS settings to maintain as flat a contact patch as possible under most conditions. If you are wearing out just a couple of inches of adjacent treads first on your rear tires, then why not save even more money by getting thinner wheels and tires? That's what you're doing by over inflating tires. Bike tires at Walmart are cheap and can take 60 PSI! Think of the savings! Hope your insurers don't find out!
I've heard of people deflating PS4s or SC2s a few pounds when they take them to the track and by the end of the day, they're running close to the 50 PSI max.Would it be possible by over inflating the tires and then rolling down the highway, heating your tires, then push that psi to the point of the tire bursting or breaking the beam on the rim causing a blowout? Is that possible? Where is Mythbusters when you need them?
Deflating tires from their normal pressures also causes more sidewall flexing initially, IE: more heating them up and increasing pressures. Not recommended to do initially for novice track day drivers who usually only get a few laps in a session. Not enough time to warm up, pit to check, reset pressures and then go out in the same session again. Never guess to low, a debead is as embarrassing as a bent wheel on the curbing from a very stiff tire because the session is usually lost to everyone while you're flat-bedded in. Of course your crew can always put on the rain tires!I've heard of people deflating PS4s or SC2s a few pounds when they take them to the track and by the end of the day, they're running close to the 50 PSI max.
Of course, highway driving is not a track day so I kind of doubt it would happen.
I think (I can't track my car because it's a convertible even though it would run circles around some of the cars I've seen at track days) that we're talking going from 32 to 30. So not a huge reduction. Just a few PSI.Deflating tires from their normal pressures also causes more sidewall flexing initially, IE: more heating them up and increasing pressures. Not recommended to do initially for novice track day drivers who usually only get a few laps in a session.
Same! Mine were at 45, I lowered them to 35 and was thinking about going up again to maybe 40? I like the rough ride of super inflated tires.Got my maverick over the weekend and when I figured out the TPMS system it was at 42psi!!!! Door sticker says to be at 35psi.
That also helped the hood flutter. Had to realign the hood (4bolts) as it was off.
There are quite a few things that I haven't tried, but I know that I shouldn't. You know, regular stuff, like juggling knives, touching bandsaw blades, licking frozen metal (OK, I did try the last one, and my tongue did indeed stick to the screen door until my mother poured her tea on it).John, RGB, Tony,
If you haven’t tried it, YOU DON’T KNOW!
I’m done…….
Does the Maverick tire pressure monitor system display the individual tire pressures, or does it just have a low pressure light?
My dealer did this on the last car I got too. 42 on all of them. I'll have to check whenever my mav shows up. Its also i guess neat that tire pressure monitors are accurate now. My old car just kind of gave me a "theyre fine" or "this ones low" (til the batteries went out)Got my maverick over the weekend and when I figured out the TPMS system it was at 42psi!!!! Door sticker says to be at 35psi.
That also helped the hood flutter. Had to realign the hood (4bolts) as it was off.