Best B&O sub drop-in replacement?

[Ryom]

Do we have any consensus on what the best choice for a drop-in driver replacement of the stock B&O subwoofer is? Meaning no new amps or boxes, using the B&O amp and stock sub mount. I'd consider adapter plates or shims to be "drop-in" as long as there isn't anything more involved than drilling.

There are a few single 6×9 options on Crutchfield that aren't full-range, but they are listed as incompatible which is frustrating.

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[newagecritter]

I need this too. Actually considering swapping all the speakers as long as I can keep the amp factory.

 

[Ryom]

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/A...peaker_Size|6x9&nvpair=FFDesign|[rankA]Woofer

Those are the two woofers that are listed as single drivers, but really intended as mid-ranges for motorcycles. Crutchfield's part picker states they don't fit. One has a sensitivity of 102dB which would certainly increase the output from the sub. The other is 95dB which would probably be a good bit louder than stock as well.

 

[converseguy]

I ordered a Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm from Amazon for $50 but it was not significantly different from stock so I put in a 10" subwoofer in a box sitting in the back seat and a decent amp for it. That made a huge difference.

 

[Ryom]

I ordered a Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm from Amazon for $50 but it was not significantly different from stock so I put in a 10" subwoofer in a box sitting in the back seat and a decent amp for it. That made a huge difference.

Area of 6.5" circle is 133 sq in.
Area of 6x9" oval is 170 sq in.

So a loss of area equivalent to a whole 3.25" driver... pretty substantial when we're talking 6.5" subs. I'm not too surprised it wasn't much of a change. I imagine that sourcing a high-efficiency 6x9 is the way to go.

It's good data though!

 

[converseguy]

Area of 6.5" circle is 133 sq in.
Area of 6x9" oval is 170 sq in.

So a loss of area equivalent to a whole 3.25" driver... pretty substantial when we're talking 6.5" subs. I'm not too surprised it wasn't much of a change. I imagine that sourcing a high-efficiency 6x9 is the way to go.

It's good data though!

I only tried it because someone on here had bought one and gave it a good review.

 

[newagecritter]

Area of 6.5" circle is 133 sq in.
Area of 6x9" oval is 170 sq in.

So a loss of area equivalent to a whole 3.25" driver... pretty substantial when we're talking 6.5" subs. I'm not too surprised it wasn't much of a change. I imagine that sourcing a high-efficiency 6x9 is the way to go.

It's good data though!

I didn’t even think to do the math lol. It’s pretty obvious when you look at it that way what is preferable!

 

[Ryom]

I didn’t even think to do the math lol. It’s pretty obvious when you look at it that way what is preferable!

It's the pizza question at play... should you order two 8" pizzas or one 12" pizza? The 12 is 50 sq in more pizza!

 

[phoneguyinpgh]

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/A...peaker_Size|6x9&nvpair=FFDesign|[rankA]Woofer

Those are the two woofers that are listed as single drivers, but really intended as mid-ranges for motorcycles. Crutchfield's part picker states they don't fit. One has a sensitivity of 102dB which would certainly increase the output from the sub. The other is 95dB which would probably not add much over stock.

Neither of those drivers has the frequency response to be a SUBwoofer. A good sub should get down to near 20Hz. The idea being it fills out the really really deep low bass that the main woofers can't get to. You might want to look at an all-in-one enclosure with a built in amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSWX400/Pioneer-TS-WX400DA.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953NANO110/Memphis-Audio-NANO110P-Nanoboxx.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN8MS/MTX-TN8MS.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151STA10/PowerBass-STA-10.html?tp=114

Just some examples. I have been checking into them but first I'm upgrading the dash, doors & rear pillars. Then I will make a decision on upgrading the sub or not.

 

[Ryom]

Neither of those drivers has the frequency response to be a SUBwoofer. A good sub should get down to near 20Hz. The idea being it fills out the really really deep low bass that the main woofers can't get to. You might want to look at an all-in-one enclosure with a built in amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSWX400/Pioneer-TS-WX400DA.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953NANO110/Memphis-Audio-NANO110P-Nanoboxx.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN8MS/MTX-TN8MS.html?tp=114
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151STA10/PowerBass-STA-10.html?tp=114

Just some examples. I have been checking into them but first I'm upgrading the dash, doors & rear pillars. Then I will make a decision on upgrading the sub or not.

I've installed proper subs in my past vehicles, looking to avoid the wiring and space the boxes take, even if it is minimal. I do miss the bass that a 600-watt amp with a 12" Kicker L7T can pump out though.

I don't disagree that they aren't PROPER subs, but unfortunately the 6x9 options are minimal. They are largely sold in pairs as 2 or 3 way speakers, these are some of the few options for getting a single driver. To be fair to the DS18 on Crutchfield though, I'd wager it's much more capable than the stock B&O sub driver is.

 

[JetFixxxer]

Someone here posted these for replacements. I don't remember I only added them to a wish list.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSC67/Kicker-51KSC6704.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301DCX1653/Hertz-DCX-165-3.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K165/Hertz-K-165.html

https://a.co/d/1fmNs0n
https://a.co/d/331d25f
https://a.co/d/0td8xUd

 

[Ryom]

Someone here posted these for replacements. I don't remember I only added them to a wish list.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSC67/Kicker-51KSC6704.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301DCX1653/Hertz-DCX-165-3.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K165/Hertz-K-165.html

https://a.co/d/1fmNs0n
https://a.co/d/331d25f
https://a.co/d/0td8xUd

I've been puttering around the interwebs and this JL Audio C1-690x looks promising.
Power handling: 100watts RMS
Frequency Response: 39 - 22000 Hz
Sensitivity: 94 dB

 

[Sluggo48313]

I ordered a Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm from Amazon for $50 but it was not significantly different from stock so I put in a 10" subwoofer in a box sitting in the back seat and a decent amp for it. That made a huge difference.

I tried this Dayton upgrade too and was disappointed. I ended up with a box under the passenger rear seat, an amp, and 10" inch driver. Others have had luck with the smaller self powered under seat units.

There is no driver that will upgrade the stock infinite baffle sub. Its just a poor design. When you remove it, there is a hole in the floor leading under the bed. You can see the ground. Just the road noise from this hole alone cancels out half the bass.

Also, when you add an upgraded sub, make sure you sound deaden the whole back area. Take the bins out and do under them. Makes a huge difference.

 

[newagecritter]

This brand is super great.

https://garagebaggerstereo.com/products/mmats-pro-audio-mbw690-6x9-subwoofer

I’m not sure the amp could push it and the mounting depth may be a problem.

 

[Ryom]

I tried this Dayton upgrade too and was disappointed.

The Dayton has a sensitivity of 85dB @ 1w/1m, and I believe the stock driver sensitivity is higher. The Dayton is going to sound significantly quieter as a drop in, and I don't recall there being an adjustment just for the subwoofer volume. Along with moving significantly less air, I can't see it being useful without bypassing the B&O amp and adding an dedicated sub amp to it.

This brand is super great.

https://garagebaggerstereo.com/products/mmats-pro-audio-mbw690-6x9-subwoofer

I’m not sure the amp could push it and the mounting depth may be a problem.

The MMATS is 88dB 1w/1m, so we'll probably be losing output without a dedicated amp again.

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The volume difference due to sensitivity would be about double and triple the volume when comparing the JL and Pioneer 6"x9" to the MMATS and Dayton subs. Due to the lack of a sub volume control, there is definitely a sweet spot for sensitivity of a replacement sub, higher than stock for more output, but not so high it becomes completely unbalanceable.

EDIT: I found out the JL is using sens at 2.83 volts, so the Pioneer TS-A693CH A-series is actually 1dB louder than the JL. I'm going to give the Pioneer a go since it has no integrated tweeter.

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