B&O System wiring question - using the input to the amp

[volksnuts]

I used the PAC to grab the signals for my fronts and subs
It was easy and required no splicing, but for the price I’m not sure it’s worth it
Well I’m lazy so the easy connection was worth it (plugs in at the amp location)
Gives front/rear/sub rca outputs plus remote turn on so the system works just like factory (this is a plus and minus as the radio has power as soon as the doors are opened)
Only wire I had to run was the bass knob (but I suppose I could have left that in the back but I like to make changes based on music)

Im not sure what the question was

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[colinl]

I used the PAC to grab the signals for my fronts and subs
It was easy and required no splicing, but for the price I’m not sure it’s worth it
Well I’m lazy so the easy connection was worth it (plugs in at the amp location)
Gives front/rear/sub rca outputs plus remote turn on so the system works just like factory (this is a plus and minus as the radio has power as soon as the doors are opened)
Only wire I had to run was the bass knob (but I suppose I could have left that in the back but I like to make changes based on music)

Im not sure what the question was

lol the question was if the B&O amp speaker outputs are high enough quality to use as inputs to a new 5 channel amp.

I advised him not to try that, and another reason is because the outputs from the B&O definitely have filters. the sub output has a bandpass approx 30hz - 150hz. front doors go pretty low, I would guess at least 80hz, but definitely filtered as you don't need a bass blocker. tweeters are tweeters probably 2k-3k high pass.

if you take A2B you get full range digital signal.

 

[Okcorrell]

Thank you all for your input/advice! I ended going with the following system and will post pictures once I install it all.

• PAC AP4-FD31 for clean signal (of turning down the damn open door chimes)
• Morel Virtus 602 2 way components for front
• Morel 4” coax rears
• JL 10TW1 in a ground shaker box under rear seat(driver side as I have a hybrid)
• JL 5 channel amp (XD700/5) with sub knob somewhere on the lower dash.

 

[Parrotheadad]

Thank you all for your input/advice! I ended going with the following system and will post pictures once I install it all.

• PAC AP4-FD31 for clean signal (of turning down the damn open door chimes)
• Morel Virtus 602 2 way components for front
• Morel 4” coax rears
• JL 10TW1 in a ground shaker box under rear seat(driver side as I have a hybrid)
• JL 5 channel amp (XD700/5) with sub knob somewhere on the lower dash.

Don’t forget to either unplug or deal with the center speaker which is fed separately from the head unit not the B&O amp.

 

[colinl]

Don’t forget to either unplug or deal with the center speaker which is fed separately from the head unit not the B&O amp.

I dealt with it by replacing the center with a coaxial Kenwood 3.5" and since it's 4ohm, but the stock center is 8ohm, I put a 4 ohm resistor on it. No, it's not at all perfect.... but yes, it's a noticeable improvement at high volume levels.

Selling the other half of the pair of 3.5s
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/kenwood-kfc-x3-b-o-center-channel-upgrade.37274/

 

[volksnuts]

I left my center speaker connected and it doesn’t play loud enough to even hear
Same with rears
When I was in the middle of my install and hadn’t connected my front speakers I had almost no sounds from the ones running off the radio module

Maybe throwing some 4ohm speakers in those spots will give some sound?
I don’t think I’ve read anyone else having very low volume (not that I care much, the rest sound great)

 

[WhatJoeKnow]

I used the PAC to grab the signals for my fronts and subs
It was easy and required no splicing, but for the price I’m not sure it’s worth it
Well I’m lazy so the easy connection was worth it (plugs in at the amp location)
Gives front/rear/sub rca outputs plus remote turn on so the system works just like factory (this is a plus and minus as the radio has power as soon as the doors are opened)
Only wire I had to run was the bass knob (but I suppose I could have left that in the back but I like to make changes based on music)

Im not sure what the question was

Why do say you're not it was worth it to use the PAC? I'm looking to run this exact setup. A 5 ch amp running FOCAL component set and 10 in sub.

 

[colinl]

Why do say you're not it was worth it to use the PAC? I'm looking to run this exact setup. A 5 ch amp running FOCAL component set and 10 in sub.

the pac is like $380 - anything with the a2b interface is pretty costly, but a good multi-channel line out converter like a lc5i is also expensive.

it does have value, though. you are fully integrated to the sync3 (or sync4) receiver and you'll have normalized volume for door chime and other system sounds, navigation audio, etc.

plus you can remove the B&O amp and use that real estate to install your stuff. it's way better than leaving the B&O and then tapping the speaker outputs for your other amp / dsp input.

 

[WhatJoeKnow]

the pac is like $380 - anything with the a2b interface is pretty costly, but a good multi-channel line out converter like a lc5i is also expensive.

it does have value, though. you are fully integrated to the sync3 (or sync4) receiver and you'll have normalized volume for door chime and other system sounds, navigation audio, etc.

plus you can remove the B&O amp and use that real estate to install your stuff. it's way better than leaving the B&O and then tapping the speaker outputs for your other amp / dsp input.

Thank you for the answer. Will it also flatten the curve and help with the sound? I plan on keeping the B&O amp to run my rear speakers and use the PAC for front and sub. I currently have a LC2i hooked up though my sub out. I could just get an LC5 and run the front and sub through that but, I really want to get rid of the bass roll off and correcting the signal which I guess the PAC is supposed to do.

 

[colinl]

Thank you for the answer. Will it also flatten the curve and help with the sound? I plan on keeping the B&O amp to run my rear speakers and use the PAC for front and sub. I currently have a LC2i hooked up though my sub out. I could just get an LC5 and run the front and sub through that but, I really want to get rid of the bass roll off and correcting the signal which I guess the PAC is supposed to do.

b&o does front 6.5s and tweeters and the 6x9 sub. the center channel and rear are powered by the sync unit internal amp.

that's the other value of the PAC a2b interface.

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