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Alternate tweeter locations?
- Thread starter rallyshark
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- #17
I won't call you dumb man, it's better to ask when you don't know
DSP is a Digital Signal Processor. It allows full control of the sound equalization for every channel, crossover frequency control, time alignment(this a huge one that most people overlook), speaker phase, and a few other things depending on the DSP. It basically lets you completely control/tailor the sound to your liking.
Got it. We used to just call them "Separators" back in the day. Thought that's what is was. I wired all my wiring using the high level ports due to no low level access. Then, after two weeks of running wires, splicing and running more wires to the moon and back, then tucking and hiding crap, I find out that there is a harness that you can attached to the back of the stock head unit that allows one to go the full Monty to all speakers, adding amps, etc. using low input jacks!! So much cleaner and sounds way better!I won't call you dumb man, it's better to ask when you don't know
I say all this in the hopes that there is a DSP with high input and output access that I could get my hands on. Otherwise, I"ll just wait until I got 3 full days of time on my hands. LoL!
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- #19
Most have high level inputs, so it should be pretty easy to add if you want.
I would use the dash tweeters. Ford did it pretty well and the soundstage is great.
a coax is going to be way off axis unless you have one with swiveling tweeters.
I have seen a few trucks with component tweeters surface mounted relatively high on the door panel, but I haven't had a chance to listen to one. this was my plan b, but I've been very happy with the dash tweets and no need to change mount.
a coax is going to be way off axis unless you have one with swiveling tweeters.
I have seen a few trucks with component tweeters surface mounted relatively high on the door panel, but I haven't had a chance to listen to one. this was my plan b, but I've been very happy with the dash tweets and no need to change mount.
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Why would an appropriate resistor need to be used if the stock tweeters are removed? I don't understand completely? Couldn't I just unhook the dash tweeter and run a coaxial speaker in the front door getting a full signal?
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- #22
Yes, you could just unhook the dash tweeters, since they feed directly off the wires for the door speakers. Your sound stage would be be compromised by doing so, but you could do it for sure.
I know the front stage would be comprised. My main question was why would you use need a resistor if you remove the dash tweeter? Thanks
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- #24
You would not need a resistor if you disconnected the tweeters, because they feed from the same wires that go to the door speakers. A resistor would only be needed if you disconnected the door speakers and the tweeters. The computer gets mad, if it doesn't detect a speaker on one of the outputs. Since the tweeters and door speakers share the same outputs, the computer would still detect a speaker with the tweeters disconnected.
Thank you for explaining it in detail....now I get it. Thanks
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I assume you had to enlarge the tweeter opening for your Dyn tweeter. Did you happen to look to see how much depth you had once you enlarged it? I'm going to try and fit a 2.5" mid range in there but not sure how much depth there might be.I forgot about this thread! I did end up putting tweeters in the dash, albeit with modified grills. I also heavily modified the dash cutouts to fit some larger Dynaudio tweeters. I modified the doors to fit the Dynaudio 6.5's, which have a massive cast basket on them. The fact is, you'll never the same quality of sound with coaxials as you will with a proper component set. That's why I decided to go through the trouble of making the Dynaudio components fit. There are other component sets that will fit much easier, but I wanted to go for it in the SQ department, so...
The final setup turned out really well for my tastes. I'm running the Dynaudio components up front, with Polk 4" in the rear. For the sub, I'm using a Hertz MPS 250 S2 in a sound decisions enclosure. It is all controlled by an Audio Dynamics DSP feeding an Audison 5 channel amp. I also went into Forscan and set the Factory special EQ to Flat, which helps the low bass tremendously. The system sounds wonderful, without being fatiguing or harsh. I adjusted everything to have as warm a sound as possible without loosing too much detail. I drive A LOT, so harsh tweeters/highs would get annoying really fast.
Long story short, I'm glad I put in the effort to make some good tweeters fit in the dash. The other most important thing I did was using a DSP. You can get really great sound with a ton of different setups in these trucks, provided you're using a DSP of some sort.
Have my dsp amp in and Focal woofer under the rear seat. Have to try and find a grill for the sub so it doesn't hit the bottom of the rear seat. Still using the factory fronts for now til I can figure out if I can get a 3 way active system up front.
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- #27
Oh yeah, I basically had to cut out every bit of the factory "bracket" part the oem tweeter snapped into. We'll just say a 60 watt soldering iron with a custom tip was involved, lol. In other words, I turned my soldering iron into a hot knife, and it was not fun to do. The top of the Dynaudio tweeter is all the way to the black grill cloth. If it was 1mm taller, it would be resting against the cloth. As far as depth, I don't think there's enough depth there to put a 2.5" mid if you're wanting to flush mount it. I had to bend the terminals of the tweeters for them to clear, fwiw. You'll likely have to do a pod of some sort to mount a mid up there. You may possibly be able to get a dome midrange of some sort, but it still won't be easy. Also working under that windshield is a sucks.
There was someone on here that did Alpine(I think) 3 ways using a rectangular pod he custom made to fit in that location, but I can remember who it was. You could probably find it with a search. It turned out real nice though. Unless you're a audio shop level fabricator or have money/time to burn, you'll probably be much better served going with a 2 way setup over a 3 way. I would love to have a 3 way setup myself, but I'm quite happy with how the 2 way setup turned out for me.
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How does the Hertz sound in that box? I got the dual box from SD and 2 of the MPS250s. Just waiting on an install date for the Audison F8.9 DSP/amp and likely a sr1.500 for the subs.I forgot about this thread! I did end up putting tweeters in the dash, albeit with modified grills. I also heavily modified the dash cutouts to fit some larger Dynaudio tweeters. I modified the doors to fit the Dynaudio 6.5's, which have a massive cast basket on them. The fact is, you'll never the same quality of sound with coaxials as you will with a proper component set. That's why I decided to go through the trouble of making the Dynaudio components fit. There are other component sets that will fit much easier, but I wanted to go for it in the SQ department, so...
The final setup turned out really well for my tastes. I'm running the Dynaudio components up front, with Polk 4" in the rear. For the sub, I'm using a Hertz MPS 250 S2 in a sound decisions enclosure. It is all controlled by an Audio Dynamics DSP feeding an Audison 5 channel amp. I also went into Forscan and set the Factory special EQ to Flat, which helps the low bass tremendously. The system sounds wonderful, without being fatiguing or harsh. I adjusted everything to have as warm a sound as possible without loosing too much detail. I drive A LOT, so harsh tweeters/highs would get annoying really fast.
Long story short, I'm glad I put in the effort to make some good tweeters fit in the dash. The other most important thing I did was using a DSP. You can get really great sound with a ton of different setups in these trucks, provided you're using a DSP of some sort.
Where did you order that sub box from? It is wicked awesome. ThanksHow does the Hertz sound in that box? I got the dual box from SD and 2 of the MPS250s. Just waiting on an install date for the Audison F8.9 DSP/amp and likely a sr1.500 for the subs.
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When I installed my slightly-larger tweeters I thought I might end up having to do the same with grille cloth but glad I didn't have to. But it's great to see that it looks really good with the cloth.Long story short, I'm glad I put in the effort to make some good tweeters fit in the dash.
Fitting a 2.5" in the dash would require a level of butchery that very few would feel comfortable with. You can make a hole in the dash panel that diameter, but I'd be surprised if the speaker could actually be put in the hole from the top because of the windshield being right there above it on an angle. Before thinking any more about it, find a piece of foam and cut it into the shape, dimensions, and depth of the replacement speaker. Then put it up near the windshield to help visualize what kind of installation clearance issues this might present.
I'm all for taking on challenges, but I agree with @rallyshark's good advice. The effort required to go 3-way up front, or even just to put a larger driver in the dash... for the amount of work it is, few would be able to say they hear a difference over a good 2-way with no hacking of plastic needed. And when the vehicle is being driven, tire noise, wind noise, and engine noise will negate that difference. It would be worthwhile if an owner is considering a killer audio system with the intention of doing serious audio competitions. But for the rest of us with average time, money, and most importantly patience, that extra time might be better spent on other projects.
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