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Mas280

Mas280

2.5L Hybrid
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You will not know if it voids the warranty until something goes wrong and it is evaluated by Ford.
It will not void warranty, thats like saying changing speakers will void everything. People have been adding electronics to trucks for a long time.
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Turtle

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It will not void warranty, thats like saying changing speakers will void everything. People have been adding electronics to trucks for a long time.
Each to their own. If you chased the AMPlifier on the radio they could say that caused the head to blow out. I had a friend that was having trouble with his radio. Turns out he replaced the antenna cause he didn’t like the look of it. When they tracked it back to the antenna they charged him $200.00 foe their diagnostic time even though the system was under warranty. I think this is just a matter of personal preference i always keep the truck basically stock when under warranty.
 

Oddzball

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You should be able to run any size inverter that your battery can handle. If the inverter is too large then it draws from the battery instead of completely from the alternator. Of course this would max out the charging capabilities of the alternator but for short periods of time it should be able to handle it. If you're afraid you can always run the inverter off the battery alone and then charge it when it gets low with the alternator. That being said, 600W is perfectly fine for just about any stock alternator on a modern car, I would feel comfortable going up to 1000W with a direct battery connection without electrical modifications. 400W was definitely a cost / use based decision rather than an engineering limitation. Also, don't discount those Chinese inverters, some are quite good! We were using a 10 year old 160W one to power a 400W test set a week ago at my work and it handled it like a champ. It had a thermal shutoff after about 10 minutes of use but that's all we needed.
I wouldnt say thats true for the Hybrids though. I honestly dont know how the sensing circuit etc would act with an inverter drawing on the battery, so how would it know to turn the engine on to charge the 12v?
 

eatinginternet

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I wouldnt say thats true for the Hybrids though. I honestly dont know how the sensing circuit etc would act with an inverter drawing on the battery, so how would it know to turn the engine on to charge the 12v?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I'm sure they figured out how to keep the 12V battery from dying in the hybrid... I trust that much. Try it and find out! Drain the battery to like 12.0V, see what the car does when you start it up, does the engine immediately turn on? I don't have the hybrid so I honestly didn't even think of that.

They expect you to use a 400W inverter without killing the battery so whatever system is in place will work for the larger inverter too, I'm just curious how it works.
 

eatinginternet

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Results are in: official part number for the bed 110V outlet is NZ6Z19A464A. On the Ford website this shows as 19N236, probably or 19N236B. 19N236A appears to be the 12V plug on the same panel. Can anyone with this feature already installed comment whether these are drilled straight into a flat cover plate/bezel or if they have their own bezel? I'd be willing to cut up mine but if the factory has a precut version that'd be great.

Now I need a # for the wiring harness...
 

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MrHomeGuy

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This may be a dumb question but I'm assuming both of those outlets only have power when the vehicle is ON and running, correct?
The inverter draws power from the vehicle battery. Usually, the factory install only works with the vehicle running asthe vehicle battery could drain quickly/ Many inverters are not pure sine wave so some tools will not work. I like using a Jackery which is portable and can stay plugged into any 12v lighter socket. There are a number of solar generators on the market and may can use solar for charging when off grid. Popular with Overlanders and Campers .
 
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eatinginternet

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Results are in: official part number for the bed 110V outlet is NZ6Z19A464A. On the Ford website this shows as 19N236, probably or 19N236B. 19N236A appears to be the 12V plug on the same panel. Can anyone with this feature already installed comment whether these are drilled straight into a flat cover plate/bezel or if they have their own bezel? I'd be willing to cut up mine but if the factory has a precut version that'd be great.

Now I need a # for the wiring harness...

Ok so I wasn't able to find a part number for that harness itself, it may be included as a larger harness rather than an individual one or bundled with the tailgate / trailer wiring. Also, the side panel covering that comes with the luxury model is recessed and also includes a light.

I did find a part number for a pigtail that connects to the factory bed 110 outlet, that pigtail is WPT396 (14S411). The last step then is how to wire it to the existing inverter and where the inverter is. I don't feel like taking my truck apart yet since it's my daily driver so I'll keep looking and calling parts departments. Really wish they had all those diagrams available.

Update: so it appears the power inverter harness is built into the "dash and floor console" harness but it's hard to say for certain without diagrams. Probably easiest to just add a separate run for the plug. The standalone inverter is 19G317.
 
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wyouger

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You should be able to run any size inverter that your battery can handle. If the inverter is too large then it draws from the battery instead of completely from the alternator. Of course this would max out the charging capabilities of the alternator but for short periods of time it should be able to handle it. If you're afraid you can always run the inverter off the battery alone and then charge it when it gets low with the alternator. That being said, 600W is perfectly fine for just about any stock alternator on a modern car, I would feel comfortable going up to 1000W with a direct battery connection without electrical modifications. 400W was definitely a cost / use based decision rather than an engineering limitation. Also, don't discount those Chinese inverters, some are quite good! We were using a 10 year old 160W one to power a 400W test set a week ago at my work and it handled it like a champ. It had a thermal shutoff after about 10 minutes of use but that's all we needed.
This is a fair statement for the 2.0 Ecoboost but the hybrid doesn't have an alternator. The 12v battery is charged by a DC to DC converter from the high voltage battery.
Why not mount the inverter behind the cubby cover where you put the outlets and tie into the provided 12v power pigtail provided with the truck? The behind seat idea is a good one but must be a bit more complicated wiring job no?
The provided 12v pigtails are only rated for 20 amps. A 400 watt inverter draws over 30 amps. It's always better to mount the inverter close to the 12 volt source. Especially for higher watt ratting inverters. A 150 watt inverter only draws about 12 amps but a 1000 watt inverter draws over 80 amps. A 1000 watt inverter would require 3 gauge wire. It would be difficult to run 3 gauge wire all the way from the battery to the inverter in the bed cubby. You could run a 200 wat inverter directly from the pigtails in the bed.
 
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Bsperty

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I added a 12v and 110v outlet in my Maverick XL. I used a Ram 1500 400w inverter with Nissan Titan bed outlet. I didn't want to use a aftermarket inverter as they can be loud compared to oem inverters. Unfortunately my truck did not have the factory inverter harness so I ended up making my own. I mounted the inverter behind the rear seat. The 12v outlet is wired to the harness that's already in the bed.

Parts used
Ram Truck inverter 400w
Bed outlet harness 253A0-7S200
110v power outlet 253A47S200
12v outlet
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inverter.jpg
What did you tap into for the power behind the seat. Did you come from the back with the power?
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