2025/2026 XL/XLT Adaptive Cruise Is Working -- DIY how-to install instructions

[rusty_shackleford]

Someone asked for a new thread, so here we go! 2025 Adaptive cruise is working, lane centering, stop and go, the works.

The First key is the proper CCM. The CCM was updated between years, so the 2024 part won't communicate with the new IPMA. It may be the same as the 2021+ part from F-150s, but may need new firmware. I didn't mess with any firmware, so don't ask lol. The part I ordered was salvage from a 2025 Maverick Lariat, and dropped right in, no calibration or anything.

The Second Key was finding all the places in FORscan to make this happen, the new spreadsheet was a huge help. 17 different lines in as built data to get everything agreeing and working. If you try this, the first code you change will make your dash light up like a Christmas tree. If you check DTCs... better you just don't.
Keep the path, change them all, and it will clear up. ALWAYS MAKE BACKUPS BEFORE EDITING

The physical install is similar to the older models, I used this video for the grille, And this one for the steering wheel.

The difference being the placement of our IPMA, behind the rear seat back, on the wall. Instead of bothering with fuse blocks and stuff, all 4 wires from the CCM need to be ran to the plug on the IPMA, with pins added to the empty spots.

You will need approximately 20ft of 4 different colors, 20 awg minimum stranded automotive wire. Its nice to pull it through a loom, but optional. XL owners will have an empty rubber grommet they can poke thru on the firewall, XLT owners might have to get a little more creative. The one XLT I've seen up close had metal on the firewall where my truck had a blank rubber grommet. In either case, pull the door sill trim on the driver side and separate the plastic from the B pillar, there are white plastic "conduit" channels under the door sills you''ll open and lay your wires inside.

Pull the wires from the IPMA area behind the rear seat all the way to the drivers floor area, on the XL you can poke a hole in the grommet and get into the firewall. On the XLT there is a bundle of wires on a different spot you can try to stick it though. I saw someone pop them out of the door seal near the hinges of the drivers door, and pulled them through the fender, but I dislike that method, it might pinch the wires with the door shut. Once more XLT owners chime in we will know what works. Once you have them in the engine area you'll pull it along the drivers side to drop behind the headlight, and route it around the radiators to get to the mounting area for the CCM.

Part numbers:

CCM Sensor Bracket SZ6Z-14C022-B

Screws W506976S450B

CCM Sensor Plastic Cover SZ6Z-17E810-A

Steering wheel switch I ordered this one, but I'm unsure if the order numbers matter much, the sticker said LB5T-9E740-A.

4x Pins for IPMA connector WT1002, price is for 1, you need 4
Connector for CCM Link

Air deflector SZ6Z-8327-B (optional if you own tools to cut the old one nicely)

CCM S1PT-9G768-AA is the label on the one used on 2025 Lariats, its confirmed working.
Search for S1PZ-9E731-A as well, its the service part number for the same module.




CCM harness wiring.

The face of the plug is towards you on this diagram, the wires are coming out the back of the plug away from you. Pay close attention as its easy to wire this one mirrored if you forget and use pin 4 as power in from IPMA terminal 18, and it wont work. We only need the 4 wires on the left column from this view.

IPMA harness wiring.

The face of the plug is facing towards you on this diagram, wires coming out that back away from you.

In the following pic you'll see the bottom of my IPMA with rear park aid and blind spot sensors wired up. notice 5 empty holes on the right hand side of the right hand plug. closest to us from left to right is pin 9 and pin 10, 9 is your CCM ground. 10 is unused here.
Behind it from L to R is empty 18, 19, 20, you'll need all 3 for 12v+ and communication to the CCM

FORScan

When you get to the programming part, take note when you get to IPMA 706-02-02. Vehicles with blind spot sensors follow one line, those without follow the other.

If you are wiring the CCM behind the seat just to test if it will connect before committing to the rest of the work, the only change you should need is IPMA 706-02-02.
Disconnect from the truck once you save it, power cycle the truck, then reconnect and do not use the saved profile when FORScan asks. Again, there will be dtcs, clear them or ignore them, but the CCM should show up.

I think the APIM changes are optional, but you wont get the menus to change anything.
Ecoboost, should see in BodyCM 726-04-05 xxxx xxx0 88xx, leave the 0 alone only change 88 to 90

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[Cancunbadlands]

Nice upgrade for sure

 

[Bubbanbrenda]

Excellent write up Well done

 

[BlueSpec1]

IPMA C3676B pinout.

 

[TremoringDan]

Cool
I was the first 5G Ranger in North America to get ACC working. It was a group effort by a couple of us but I finished the work first.

I know the exact feeling you had as you hit the set button and your efforts were rewarded.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

Cool
I was the first 5G Ranger in North America to get ACC working. It was a group effort by a couple of us but I finished the work first.

I know the exact feeling you had as you hit the set button and your efforts were rewarded.

Thats dope. I see you got a 2026 Mav, but yours probably already has the ACC lol. I dont see why this wont work on 2026 XLs and XLTs though, just would need another brave pioneer to attempt it before I add that to the post.


ALSO I've never driven a vehicle with copilot 2.0 installed, so I'm unsure if there is any missing functionality, and also if the hardware I have is capable. If anyone else finds anything that works, lmk so we can add it to the write up.

 

[TremoringDan]

Thats dope. I see you got a 2026 Mav, but yours probably already has the ACC lol. I dont see why this wont work on 2026 XLs and XLTs though, just would need another brave pioneer to attempt it before I add that to the post.


ALSO I've never driven a vehicle with copilot 2.0 installed, so I'm unsure if there is any missing functionality, and also if the hardware I have is capable. If anyone else finds anything that works, lmk so we can add it to the write up.

You are correct, my Tremor has just about every option.
From what I've read, I don't think the 2026 has been cracked yet. I'll go try it and see - need to update my license for my ForScan.

I had most of the safety stuff in my Lariat Ranger so I'm used to the Copilot stuff. (Lane keeping, braking, ect)

 

[Escapologist]

Solid work. I'd almost be regretting getting the Lariat now, apart from I found I like some things I didn't want... and of course getting a decent deal on it.

 

[The Cyber Orange Guy.]

Awesome job. I keep kicking myself for not getting a hybrid 2022, but it took forever on my zone to get those, just wish I could do the same.

 

[DashOfSalt84]

So I'm unclear as to the wiring requirements compared to the write up for the previous models.

In that one, the instructions talk about pulling wires all over including to the fuse box and through the trim etc.

Can you tell us what wiring you actually needed to add and how you ran it? Because you don't mention any significantly long wires in your buy list.

Thanks!

 

[rusty_shackleford]

So I'm unclear as to the wiring requirements compared to the write up for the previous models.

In that one, the instructions talk about pulling wires all over including to the fuse box and through the trim etc.

Can you tell us what wiring you actually needed to add and how you ran it? Because you don't mention any significantly long wires in your buy list.

Thanks!

Sure, I used leftovers from my audio project. 18 AWG Stranded Wire and 1/4 inch Split Loom, 25 ft of each will be sufficient for this project. You only need one run with 4 conductors from the front bumper area to the rear seat back. There are other guides available for routing wiring under the door sills, and there is a grommet on the drivers side firewall that is unused, we just punch a hole in the rubber to get our wires outside the cab.

See this post for more details. I ended up grounding the unit in the engine compartment, but I was running low on wire. If I was better prepared I would have rather ran it back to the IPMA with the other cables.

 

[JJTech]

I used 4x 18 AWG stranded wire in a PVC sleeve, when you remove the trim on the driver's side you can route the wire through the white plastic wire guides.

I think 18 AWG is probably a bit overkill, 20 AWG would be easier to crimp (and appears to be what Ford used).

I used crimp butt connectors on the bumper side, I used heat-shrink over top, something like this:

and Wago connectors for the interior, connecting to some cheap "dupont" breadboard/prototyping wire which had the correct connector for the IPMA side pre-crimped on.

btw, instead of purchasing the screws from Ford, I just bought these generic screws from Lowe's along with some generic washers and it worked great.

 

[DashOfSalt84]

OK, so reading through the linked posts and this thread it sounds like the process for wiring it up is:

1. Install CCM(remove bumper cover/Air deflector, trim or replace air deflector to fit)
   • Still need to make sure CCM is level via bubble level etc will be level when mounted per OP guide
2. Connect CCM plug wires 1-4 to a 20AWG 4C cable 25ft+(solder & shrink wrap preferred)
   • (possibly put cable in loom for added protection)
3. Run this cable around the engine bay
4. Punch out a currently unused grommet to go through the firewall
5. Remove interior trim(which pieces? Could help future idiots like me)
6. Run cable through "white plastic wire guides" back behind the rear seats to where the IPMA is mounted
7. Connect(solder preferred) 4C cable to 4 individual IPMA pin out compatible wires
8. Insert those wires into IPMA plug pins labelled:
   • CCM 1 -> IPMA 18
   • CCM 2 -> IPMA 19
   • CCM 3 -> IPMA 20
   • CCM 4 -> IPMA 9
9. Reprogram via Forscan
   • Two possible differences in Spreadsheet:
     • IPMA 706-02-02 -> one target value with BLIS, another without
     • BCM 726-04-05
       • Ecoboost target value: xxxx xxx0 90xx
       • Hybrid target value: xxxx xxx1 90xx
   • All other values are the same between engines/options
10. Install steering wheel controls
    • You have a part number for regular cruise control listed. Should we install the ACC cruise one instead? It seems lane centering on/off may not work currently, but surely the following distance should be adjusted/adjustable? Should the part number for this be update. Or can this be set a different way without the physical button?

How does that look for a list of instructions for the 2025 install? I always prefer solder for my electrical connections, but I'm sure butt connectors or even the waygo "clip" style will work as they always have for me when soldering is a pain.

UPDATE EDIT: FIXED STEERING WHEEL SWITCH PART NUMBER

Parts pricing as of 3/16/26:
CCM S1PT-9G768-AA (+/- $200 on eBay)
CCM Sensor Bracket SZ6Z-14C022-B ($60-80)
CCM Sensor Plastic Cover SZ6Z-17E810-A ($55)
Steering Wheel Switch LB5Z-9C888-P ($88)
4x Pins for IPMA connector WT1002 ($24)
Connector for CCM Link ($70)
Air deflector SZ6Z-8327-B ($133 if needed)
20AWG4C stranded wire Amazon Link ($15 for 25ft, $23 for 50ft)
Screws($5)
Wire connectors($5-20)

Total: $542 - 698

Edit: For guidance on what running the wires looks like, here is a link to a post showing a lot of it:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/retrofit-adaptive-cruise-2025-xlt.61515/post-1140292

Some more info on part numbers and alternate mounting locations:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...id-xlt-with-luxury-package.14586/post-1320828

 

[rusty_shackleford]

OK, so reading through the linked posts and this thread it sounds like the process for wiring it up is:

1. Install CCM(remove bumper cover/Air deflector, trim or replace air deflector to fit)
   • Still need to make sure CCM is level via bubble level etc
2. Connect CCM plug wires 1-4 to a 20AWG 4C cable 25ft+(solder & shrink wrap preferred)
   • (possibly put cable in loom for added protection)
3. Run this cable around the engine bay
4. Punch out a currently unused grommet to go through the firewall
5. Remove interior trim(which pieces? Could help future idiots like me)
6. Run cable through "white plastic wire guides" back behind the rear seats to where the IPMA is mounted
7. Connect(solder preferred) 4C cable to 4 individual IPMA pin out compatible wires
8. Insert those wires into IPMA plug pins labelled:
   • CCM 1 -> IPMA 18
   • CCM 2 -> IPMA 19
   • CCM 3 -> IPMA 20
   • CCM 4 -> IPMA 9
9. Reprogram via Forscan
   • Two possible differences in Spreadsheet:
     • IPMA 706-02-02 -> one target value with BLIS, another without
     • BCM 726-04-05
       • Ecoboost target value: xxxx xxx0 90xx
       • Hybrid target value: xxxx xxx1 90xx
   • All other values are the same between engines/options
10. Install steering wheel controls
    • You have a part number for regular cruise control listed. Should we install the ACC cruise one instead? It seems lane centering on/off may not work currently, but surely the following distance should be adjusted/adjustable? Should the part number for this be update. Or can this be set a different way without the physical button?

How does that look for a list of instructions for the 2025 install? I always prefer solder for my electrical connections, but I'm sure butt connectors or even the waygo "clip" style will work as they always have for me when soldering is a pain.

Parts pricing as of 3/16/26:
CCM S1PT-9G768-AA (+/- $200 on eBay)
CCM Sensor Bracket SZ6Z-14C022-B ($60-80)
CCM Sensor Plastic Cover SZ6Z-17E810-A ($55)
Steering Wheel Switch RB5Z-9C888-AC(possibly, with ACC control) ($58)
4x Pins for IPMA connector WT1002 ($24)
Connector for CCM Link ($70)
Air deflector SZ6Z-8327-B ($133 if needed)
20AWG4C stranded wire Amazon Link ($15 for 25ft, $23 for 50ft)
Screws($5)
Wire connectors($5-20)

Total: $512 - 668

That steering wheel switch is WRONG, see the OP for the correct part#. R**** switch will not work, needs the L*** variant. See Maverick_Dave and I's interaction in the DIY mega-thread on pages 68-71. There is some hiccups to work out, for example the switch I listed has a lane centering button but it doesn't work for me. The one @Maverick_Dave ordered does though, apparently. In both cases the follow distance button is functional. Its also possible the switch R*** is correct, and maybe the one Maverick_Dave replaced was faulty.

No need to level, in my case the radiator support behind the air deflector had the holes pre-drilled and lined up perfectly with the 4 legged bracket used on the lariats. There was only one way to install it, and it worked like it came from the factory that way.

You can see some of the wiring process here, I pre-ran these wires months ago, but ended up using them for my tweeters when I installed a new amp, as we hit a dead end on the ACC retrofit.

I went with loose wire because I wanted to twist the wires for CANBUS high and low. Some guys didn't do that and had no issues, but its best practice for the differential pair to be twisted.

 

[Maverick_Dave]

My lane centering button does not work currently. Have to use the touchscreen instead.

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