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Jalopy Technology

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Just on jack stands in the front for the draining. After you refill the fluid, the truck needs to be at its normal ride height for proper leveling. You'll have to remove the jack stands anyways to drive the truck and get the transmission up to operating temp after filling.

When leveling, jack up the drivers' front, remove the wheel, then lower the jack back down to normal ride height. You'll need to measure the height from the ground up to a trim line (bottom of door will work) so that you know where to stop when lowering the jack.
Before I had a lift I put my cars on four tall jackstands when I worked on them.

Of course I needed the belly room cause I'm a lardass...
 

Tim d

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My truck just rolled 25k miles. Today I changed the transmission fluid (partial change, really), PTU fluid, and RDU fluid. These were quite simple and anyone with some basic hand tools should be able to do them. About the only two things you'd need to pick up at Harbor Freight or some auto parts store are a fluid pump (for the PTU and RDU) and a long neck funnel.

With the transmission fluid, you're essentially draining it, filling it back up, then leveling it off with the leveling plug on the side of the case near the drivers' side CV axle. Draining the fluid is just like draining the engine oil, there's a bolt (14 mm) on the bottom of the transmission that comes out pretty easy. This bolt/plug has a seal built into the flange.

The interesting part is filling the transmission back up. I've read some very helpful threads here (thanks to those who have posted them!) but the one thing I would change is actually removing the entire transmission vent (which is where you're filling from), which means removing the entire airbox. The vent has a rubber neck with a vented cap on top, held on by a spring clamp. Some suggestions were to just pull the cap off and place the funnel into the rubber neck. This method is very restrictive and it would take a long time to get the fluid in. Below is a pic of the restrictor at the bottom of this neck:

178194-19d6f7905e94bba027a0be973e1a01d1.jpg


While it might seem daunting, removing the entire airbox is the best bet to gain full access to this vent tube and just remove the whole thing (which is actually specified in the Ford service manual). The airbox is only held on by two plastic clips on the air dam where the "ram air" tube starts, the hose clamp holding the intake tube to the box, then three grommets below the box. With the two clips up on the air dam removed and the hose clamp loosened, the entire box just lifts right out (unplug the MAF too). Only takes about a minute altogether. The vent tube and spring clamp was now very easily accessible. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to pinch the clamp and remove. The tabs on the clamp were facing the engine block, so upon reinstallation I rotated the whole assembly to face forward for even easier access next time (I'll be doing this every 25k miles).

178195-55bfa5d974afacfc8aae207979746880.jpg

178196-10a6fd90890ad1971c9611bc5dd0effd.jpg


Transmission took about 5.5 quarts of Mercon ULV. I initially put 4.5 quarts in, warmed up the truck, and gently drove around the block. Upon pulling the leveling plug (10 mm hex/allen) with the truck running (remove the front drivers' wheel) and lowering the jack to what would be normal ride height, it was low/nothing came out. Added a little more than a quart and upon pulling the plug again, fluid was coming out. I let it fall down to a slow stream/trickle then screwed the plug back in. In this process, I'd say a few ounces came out. I've seen some say 4.5 quarts, others take a whole 6 quarts, so I think it's just a case-by-case basis. Overall, pretty easy and with no hiccups should take about 45 minutes to an hour.

EDIT: I'll add for the RDU and PTU fluid changes, I just used the spec Motorcraft fluids. 75W85 Hypoid Gear Oil for the PTU, then 75W Rear Disconnect Drive Oil for the RDU. Both of these were as simple as drain, replace drain plug, then fill until fluid comes out of the fill hole. PTU drain plug was a standard 3/8" ratchet/square drive, PTU fill plug was an 8mm hex/allen and was accessed through the passenger side wheel well with the wheel removed. RDU drain and fill plugs were both standard 3/8" ratchet/square drive.

I did not teflon seal any of the plugs. The RDU plugs actually appeared to have some sort of sealer on the threads from the factory, so I just wiped off the plugs but did not remove the sealer, then snugged them up. None of these plugs require a lot of torque, I just choked up on the ratchet handle and tightened to snug.

RDU took a little less than a quart, I think I had about 4 or 5 fl-oz left in that bottle. The PTU took 0.5 qt.

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Is this something Ford recommends? I'm used to my mopars with lifetime fluid. Thx for the detailed post.
 
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matmondro

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Before I had a lift I put my cars on four tall jackstands when I worked on them.

Of course I needed the belly room cause I'm a lardass...
I hope to get a lift some day!
 
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matmondro

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Is this something Ford recommends? I'm used to my mopars with lifetime fluid. Thx for the detailed post.
Under the "normal" service schedule, this isn't recommended until 150k miles, while the "severe" service schedule has this at every 30k miles. I'm following the severe service schedule just because I want to really ensure this truck will last me a long time, I plan on keeping it for years to come.

The transmission fluid was only about $6 per quart on RockAuto, so I'd say it's worthwhile to do it regularly!
 

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Tim d

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Under the "normal" service schedule, this isn't recommended until 150k miles, while the "severe" service schedule has this at every 30k miles. I'm following the severe service schedule just because I want to really ensure this truck will last me a long time, I plan on keeping it for years to come.

The transmission fluid was only about $6 per quart on RockAuto, so I'd say it's worthwhile to do it regularly!
Gotcha, I also keep my vehicles a long time,my ram and my caravan are both 15 years old. Caravan is on its last legs at 176,000 miles. Ram I'm hoping to get another 10 years out if since it only has 39,000 miles. I will do the factory recommended schedule. Hope the maverick is as good as my dodges!
 
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matmondro

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Gotcha, I also keep my vehicles a long time,my ram and my caravan are both 15 years old. Caravan is on its last legs at 176,000 miles. Ram I'm hoping to get another 10 years out if since it only has 39,000 miles. I will do the factory recommended schedule. Hope the maverick is as good as my dodges!
Nice! And so far so good with the Mav! I've only had one warranty claim, it somehow blew out a rear suspension bushing at 10k miles. Otherwise no issues. I had a 2017 Focus ST before this and that car was 100% trouble-free. I'm expecting this Mav to be the same way!
 

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Under the "normal" service schedule, this isn't recommended until 150k miles, while the "severe" service schedule has this at every 30k miles. I'm following the severe service schedule just because I want to really ensure this truck will last me a long time, I plan on keeping it for years to come.

The transmission fluid was only about $6 per quart on RockAuto, so I'd say it's worthwhile to do it regularly!

Only 6$ for peace of mind for another 30k miles ? I find is pretty hard to don't agree with that simple logic.

On my case mine have 25k and planing to do it at 30k but gonna do it at the dealership for waranty and resale value, But definitely as soon warranty is over gonna be doing most of my services by myself, not only to save money, but also for the peace of mind that things were done right.
 

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Awesome tip on removing the entire vent. Have read many complaining about the slow fill.

TY!!
 

Jalopy Technology

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Is this something Ford recommends? I'm used to my mopars with lifetime fluid. Thx for the detailed post.
Yes...if you want the trans to last.

While I'm a Mopar fan that lifetime oil is a myth. It's only lifetime until the trans blows!
 
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matmondro

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Awesome tip on removing the entire vent. Have read many complaining about the slow fill.

TY!!
No problem! I actually poured my first quart doing the other method of just putting the funnel into the tube. Doing this, I had to open up the leveling plug to get it all to drain in. I thought, there's no way I'm doing the whole fill like this LOL. The extra minute or two to remove the airbox and the entire vent tube was well worth it as the rest of the fluid went right in only in seconds. I'd just recommend a pair of needle nose or channel-lock pliers to pinch the tabs on the spring clip.
 

Tim d

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Yes...if you want the trans to last.

While I'm a Mopar fan that lifetime oil is a myth. It's only lifetime until the trans blows!
Or the lifetime you own the vehicle,15 years so far for my 2010 caravan. No problems at 179,000 miles.also have a 15 year old ram,also no problems.
 
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Here are the two plastic clips to remove on the air dam.
Ford Maverick Ecoboost Transmission fluid, PTU and RDU fluid change @ 25k miles -- Tips & Results 20241022_161808


They are this style of clip.
Ford Maverick Ecoboost Transmission fluid, PTU and RDU fluid change @ 25k miles -- Tips & Results 20241022_111432


With those removed, the hose clamp on the intake tube loosened, and the MAF unplugged, the entire assembly just lifts right out.
 

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I saw someone else ask this question but never saw an answer and was wondering myself - could you just fill the transmission fluid back up from the leveling hole on the side rather than bother with taking the airbox out and trying to fill it from the top?

Has anyone tried this? Seems like it would be the easiest way.
 

Cigargoyle

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I saw someone else ask this question but never saw an answer and was wondering myself - could you just fill the transmission fluid back up from the leveling hole on the side rather than bother with taking the airbox out and trying to fill it from the top?

Has anyone tried this? Seems like it would be the easiest way.
Yes, that's what I do.
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