Best place to tap for amp remote turn on

[Silver23]

I've got a 23 with B and O sound. I'm wanting a good place for an amp turn on. I'm guessing the amp in the back for the stock sub will have one?
What have you guys used for remote turn on?
Is there a good fuse in the cab to tap?

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[Darnon]

The amp module always has power and is commanded on and off via CANBUS signaling.

Technically Fuse 6 is the 'best' since it's on delayed accessory circuit so it stays active until a door is opened like the radio. However it's not an easy fuse to tap as the traditional right-angle taps don't really fit in that location. The best sort are the ones with a wire soldered onto the top test pin with an in-line fuse.

Otherwise the regular switched fuse positions like 1/2 work, but the amp will cut out as soon as the vehicle is turned off. If the amp has signal sense turn-on that also works, but tends to turn on other times when a door is opened, lock/unlocked, or other random times when the APIM wakes up. Could exacerbate a deep sleep problem with the stock battery.

 

[Ryom]

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphfd31

 

[Silver23]

The amp module always has power and is commanded on and off via CANBUS signaling.

Technically Fuse 6 is the 'best' since it's on delayed accessory circuit so it stays active until a door is opened like the radio. However it's not an easy fuse to tap as the traditional right-angle taps don't really fit in that location. The best sort are the ones with a wire soldered onto the top test pin with an in-line fuse.

Otherwise the regular switched fuse positions like 1/2 work, but the amp will cut out as soon as the vehicle is turned off. If the amp has signal sense turn-on that also works, but tends to turn on other times when a door is opened, lock/unlocked, or other random times when the APIM wakes up. Could exacerbate a deep sleep problem with the stock battery.

I don't mind if the amp turns off with the truck. So fuse 1 is a good choice? What does it run?
Can you give me an amazon link to the fuse tap you like?

 

[Silver23]

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphfd31

Thanks but I don't need all that, just the remote on.

 

[Darnon]

I don't mind if the amp turns off with the truck. So fuse 1 is a good choice? What does it run?
Can you give me an amazon link to the fuse tap you like?

Fuse 1/2 are not used. If you're using Fuse 1/2 then you don't need the style I described. From what I've seen they don't sell them on Amazon anyways.

 

[Silver23]

Fuse 1/2 are not used. If you're using Fuse 1/2 then you don't need the style I described. From what I've seen they don't sell them on Amazon anyways.

Thanks, I found a thread that shows those 90 deg types will work on 3 or 6. I ordered that.
I searched and couldn't find a fuse tap like you described. I would think as long as solder sticks one could make one easy enough.
This shows the 90 deg types installed.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...nition-only-power-spoiler-its-all-good.10366/

 

[Lane]

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/lphfd31

I have this harness and it DOES NOT provide a lead for remote turn on. See the details here which I posted prior.

 

[Lane]

I've got a 23 with B and O sound. I'm wanting a good place for an amp turn on. I'm guessing the amp in the back for the stock sub will have one?
What have you guys used for remote turn on?
Is there a good fuse in the cab to tap?

I went with fuse #6, but as others have mentioned, a standard tap won't fit in that location.

For the fuse locations where there isn't room for a standard angle tap, I found these (the gold pieces in the photo):

It's a simple metal tab that slides over one of the fuse prongs that allows a spade connector to be attached. I bought these at a car show swap meet, but I think this might be it if a person wants to order some. They work great. You do need to then add a separate fuse inline on the new wire to protect whatever accessory you're powering. More pics & detail of connecting to fuse #6 can be found on page 6 of my build thread (link in my signature below).

 

[The Cyber Orange Guy.]

Hi. Did you check if the amp you want need remote ? Some amps don't need it, I think specially those that direct imput front the speaker cables, high imput.

Check on Amazon, I bet they have a few of those.

 

[kkreit01]

I used an LOC that has the REM for the Amp. It's a simple passive Kicker LOC -- which turns on with speaker signal. This probably wouldn't work with B&O though. Are you only adding a sub? You may need some sort of active LOC -- which would also have REM built-in.

 

[Silver23]

Well....
I installed the amp and ran it off of the B and O sub into the high inputs. It does turn on by itself so thats good.
But..... I doesn't work, it does zero the the new sub. I was thinking maybe it doesn't like that input and wants full spectrum. But... I've read on here the other speakers have the low freq like 50 down cut out so that's a no go.
I just ordered another one to see if it works. It's Prime so easy return.
Wish me luck.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CMCKR2MS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[AbnRgr]

I choose to tap into the USB ports on the back of the center console. That circuit is tied into an accessory switched fuse.

 

[The Cyber Orange Guy.]

I choose to tap into the USB ports on the back of the center console. That circuit is tied into an accessory switched fuse.

That's a good one, and is pretty close to the amp instead of running the cable from the front. Thumps up.

 

[Darnon]

But..... I doesn't work, it does zero the the new sub. I was thinking maybe it doesn't like that input and wants full spectrum. But... I've read on here the other speakers have the low freq like 50 down cut out so that's a no go.

If you're using it to amplify a subwoofer have you considered using, y'know, the actual subwoofer output of the B&O?

Also some amps don't like if the system voltage is over 15V.

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