What's the best option for replacing the speednuts if you've stripped them?
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RIVAL Aluminum Skid Plate Ford Maverick (non-Tremor)
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Because Ford had already stripped a nut, when the previous owner had his first oil change at Ford.
I bought a package of these replacement speed nuts and bolts.
Sorry, I do not remember the link.
It was either off of eBay or Amazon.
Good Luck
Ok, I put the factory screws back in (even though I don't think they do anything except hold the factory shield in place.
Here's why the skid plate can't utilize the factory holes. The rivals front lip goes up slightly at the front. As it sits, it is the same height as the factory shield screw holes. If it were made to fit, I think it would have a downward pointing front lip (scoop?!?) and would make the ground clearance worse. I think the design is good as is.
Here's why the skid plate can't utilize the factory holes. The rivals front lip goes up slightly at the front. As it sits, it is the same height as the factory shield screw holes. If it were made to fit, I think it would have a downward pointing front lip (scoop?!?) and would make the ground clearance worse. I think the design is good as is.
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FedEx just dropped off a present:
The finish is really nice!
It's nicely formed and the welds are nice.
This thing is beefy! It weighs over 20lbs. I'll try and get it installed tomorrow morning before work. And yes, I will take plenty of pics lol.
The finish is really nice!
It's nicely formed and the welds are nice.
This thing is beefy! It weighs over 20lbs. I'll try and get it installed tomorrow morning before work. And yes, I will take plenty of pics lol.
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Isn't that the drain plug for the PTU? I believe you would have to remove the plate to get to the oil pan drain plug.
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Looks good.
Just a thought.
When you go to install it if you take off the access panels first and then kind of tell us what you think of the clearances for the oil drain plug and the filter. Please...........Thank You
GB
Just a thought.
When you go to install it if you take off the access panels first and then kind of tell us what you think of the clearances for the oil drain plug and the filter. Please...........Thank You
GB
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I was finally able to get the skid plate installed today. The skid plate itself is great; well made and fits great. However, the included hardware is terrible. I'll update with pics once I get home on wifi.
Will the hardware keep it from falling off? I need to install mine.
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Here is another writeup of installing the skidplate.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-using-to-change-oil.51776/page-2#post-888499
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They do line up, but I don't think you don't have to remove them. If I remember correctly they are hinges. I had the demo version on mine for my last oil change and it was soooo much easier than removing the happy factory thing. I am due for another, so when I do it I will try to remember to get a Pic while it's draining.
I've clocked about 5k with mine and nothing has backed out. I covered about 15k with the prototype and didn't have any issues.Its comes with some fun nuts that you have to install
This looks incredible !Pre-orders are now open for RIVAL Aluminum Skid Plates for Ford Maverick non-Tremor
22 lbs of marine grade 1/4-in. thick stamped Aluminum.
2.0L / 2.5L Hybrid
Code MVRCKFRM10 for Forum Members for 10% off.
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Oh crap, I forgot to post my pics lol
While I am impressed with the design and fitment of the skid plate itself, I feel the hardware could have been better executed.
But first, I was curious to see how the size and shape of the skid plate compared to the factory plastic bottom engine cover.
As you can see, the skid plate is very close to the size and shape of the factory plastic part. It is, however, about 3 inches shorter at the rear. That's not an issue because there is a large cross member that the rear of the skid plate attaches to.
There are two removable panels that allow access to the oil filter and oil pan drain plug. The panels are held on by 4mm Allen head screws.
The oil filter panel opening is a decent size and allows for plenty of room to get the filter off. In the below picture, I was easily able to grasp the filter from straight below it.
The oil plug panel allows good access to the plug. The plug is off to one side of the opening but there is plenty of clearance to allow the oil to drain and not hit the skid plate.
Installation was pretty straight forward but I did run into some issues.
Figure A shows what hole the insert nut should be inserted into and what hole the threads should be in. I ended up using the hole left over from the factory clip as the "tail" from the insert but was between the skid plate and engine cradle. It was preventing the skid plate from laying flat.
Figure 3 tells you to insert the nut plate into the indicated hole but that's where the threads need to be. You have to use the smaller hole next to it and finagle the insert nut. I had to squish the "tail" on the insert nut completely flat with pliers to get it into the smaller hole. I managed to drop the insert nut only once in the cross member and had to use a magnetic pickup tool to fish it out
Lastly, the biggest issue I have with this product is the hardware. This is what is included:
The 6mm bolts are used with the insert nuts. On some trucks, the 8mm bolt will thread into the rear cross member but my hybrid didn't have threads in that hole. The 6mm and 8mm washers are stacked on the bolts for the rear of the skid plate (Figure 4). I felt like this was kinda sloppy. I wish a thicker 6mm fender washer was used.
Two of the insert nuts had poorly cut threads and the 6mm bolts would not thread into them. Luckily, there are extras in the hardware bag.
The 6mm bolts are tiny; barely larger than the factory Torx screws:
And there are only 4 bolts in total holding the skid plate to the truck. I was kinda shocked the hardware was so small.
I didn't torque the bolts. The manual recommends 7.2 lb ft.
I tightened the bolts until the blue rubber bushings squished a bit. I was concerned about snapping off the 6mm bolts because they are so small.
It's a nice, well made, beefy skid plate that is let down by crappy hardware. I give it a 8.5 out of 10.
While I am impressed with the design and fitment of the skid plate itself, I feel the hardware could have been better executed.
But first, I was curious to see how the size and shape of the skid plate compared to the factory plastic bottom engine cover.
As you can see, the skid plate is very close to the size and shape of the factory plastic part. It is, however, about 3 inches shorter at the rear. That's not an issue because there is a large cross member that the rear of the skid plate attaches to.
There are two removable panels that allow access to the oil filter and oil pan drain plug. The panels are held on by 4mm Allen head screws.
The oil filter panel opening is a decent size and allows for plenty of room to get the filter off. In the below picture, I was easily able to grasp the filter from straight below it.
The oil plug panel allows good access to the plug. The plug is off to one side of the opening but there is plenty of clearance to allow the oil to drain and not hit the skid plate.
Installation was pretty straight forward but I did run into some issues.
Figure A shows what hole the insert nut should be inserted into and what hole the threads should be in. I ended up using the hole left over from the factory clip as the "tail" from the insert but was between the skid plate and engine cradle. It was preventing the skid plate from laying flat.
Figure 3 tells you to insert the nut plate into the indicated hole but that's where the threads need to be. You have to use the smaller hole next to it and finagle the insert nut. I had to squish the "tail" on the insert nut completely flat with pliers to get it into the smaller hole. I managed to drop the insert nut only once in the cross member and had to use a magnetic pickup tool to fish it out
Lastly, the biggest issue I have with this product is the hardware. This is what is included:
The 6mm bolts are used with the insert nuts. On some trucks, the 8mm bolt will thread into the rear cross member but my hybrid didn't have threads in that hole. The 6mm and 8mm washers are stacked on the bolts for the rear of the skid plate (Figure 4). I felt like this was kinda sloppy. I wish a thicker 6mm fender washer was used.
Two of the insert nuts had poorly cut threads and the 6mm bolts would not thread into them. Luckily, there are extras in the hardware bag.
The 6mm bolts are tiny; barely larger than the factory Torx screws:
And there are only 4 bolts in total holding the skid plate to the truck. I was kinda shocked the hardware was so small.
I didn't torque the bolts. The manual recommends 7.2 lb ft.
I tightened the bolts until the blue rubber bushings squished a bit. I was concerned about snapping off the 6mm bolts because they are so small.
It's a nice, well made, beefy skid plate that is let down by crappy hardware. I give it a 8.5 out of 10.
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