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Dealer said wipers are only good for 6 months.

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scotty

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Hey Scotty I got all your replies and I'm sorry you are having this issue. Lots of questions so I'll try my best to address them all here.

You don't need to purchase the OEM wipers but they are not bad for the cost. The links I shared that you found in other threads put them around $20 each which is increasingly rare for decent quality blades now days. Insert brand here is just trying to sell you their name. Rubber is rubber.

As for the chatter, it could be many things. It could be anything from pitting in the windshield to the arms just being at an odd angle maybe 1 or 2 degrees flexed in the wrong way. There are A LOT of solutions across the interwebs and YT for this. I think the best place to start though, and not to sound insulting in any way, is cleaning. I don't mean just wiping down, I mean removing debris from the porousness of the windshield. This is usually achieved by clay bars. First, take soapy water and clean with a light bristle brush. Rinse then use your clay bar while applying more water as needed, being sure to rotate the clay bar in the process. The next step is to clean with normal windshield cleaner and wipe dry. Next and final step in this process is sealing with something like Rain-X or a windshield safe wax/ceramic. I like to apply multiple coats, letting them dry inbetween coats and making sure to remove streaks with clean towels.

Now we clean the blades. Do not use alcohol to clean wiper blades. Grab something that is safe to use on rubber, like 303 and a sponge with a teflon safe scrubber on one side. Make sure the sponge is soaked and rub back and forth on the wiper blades. This will remove all the debris and you can use the 303 as a sealer to keep the rubber happy after scrubbing. I've also mentioned turning the rubber on the blades around which can be achieved, but they do have a sort of clip design to them that is directional unfortunately. It can be done, but for the sake of simplicity and the risk of breaking the retainer clips, it's up to you if it's a task you want to take on. Anything can be disassembled with a little effort ;)

If none of that solves the issue, it could be an issue with the arm itself. There are some YT videos that show people bending those arms toward the windshield will help to apply a little more pressure on the blade. But it could also be argued that too much pressure is already being applied, and the arms need to be bent the other direction. Again, this is a task that shouldn't need to be attempted because if done wrong you can ruin the arm, but a little discretion could potentially solve the problem. I only mention is because if you search long enough for "how to solve wiper blade chatter" you will eventually stumble on this solution. Enter at your own risk.

Obviously the final step is to replace the blades. Totally up to you on what you want to do there, but essentially walking into any auto parts section of a store will have plenty of options in the correct size for you. The one thing I'd look for is simplicity. You don't need these "aero" designs, or all sorts of marketing gimmicks... just look at the blade and K.I.S.S (Keep it simple, stupid). Careful opening the packaging too, because you can walk right back in and return them if you don't get the right ones or whatever reason. So look for something that doesn't need to be cut open or mangled.

I know you already found my other threads and parts numbers, but for the sake of searching and to potentially help others reading that may stumble on this issue, I'll link the part number thread on my build log with a link to the "how to solve chatter" post I made previously HERE.

Hopefully you can get past this issue. I think a big part of it though is 90% preparation and cleaning for most people that run into this issue. The smoother the surface of the windshield, and the maintenance of the blade dragging across it, should help to solve most chatter issues.
You are really a wonderful person. Thanks for not just giving a basic understanding, but a logical approach. I did see YT guys pending the arm because the wrong way the rubber meets the road/window haha. Still its frustratingg with this issue, because of the way the dealer dealt with me on the phone. I will try again to wipe and wash the window.
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scotty

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I replace my wiper blades every 4-6 months.
Factory installed wiper blades are crap.
I buy O'reilly's commercial brand called rainguard for $10 a piece. They work as well as any other brand I've used. I don't know about longevity, because I don't keep them for very long. They're are piece of safety equipment. I treat them as such.
thanks for reply.
I will look at them on line. I hope they are the push button like the factory type.
And yes safety is my concern because what is happening appears to be too much torque on the wiper arms also the duress(I guess) that puts on the wiper motor.
 
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There is some substance (you could call it "road film") on the windshield. You can't see it. Clean the glass by scrubbing with some Comet/BonAmi cleanser. Make sure to rinse it off , and don't scrub any of the paint. This has always worked for me to eliminate blade chatter, skipping, and streaking. You can also clean the edge of the blades with it. This has always worked for me (unless the wipers are obviously bad).
Thanks for response. I was considering comet. But wondered if it was too abrasive. You settled that issue for me.
 
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That sucks. BTW, how are the black surfaces on the rest of the truck fairing? Florida sun is murder! Fortunately, we had a carport at our Condo near Ruskin so I guess we had a little more protection. On a side note, when we had a M-B, things like wipers were changed at least yearly because their $ervices are very comprehen$ive. Used to get a bottle of wiper fluid every frickin' time (which wasn't free!).
Glad you have carport. I park in under trees when available, but there is competition among the other condo individuals. Thank you for your concern. The black hasn't faded yet after 6 mths. but the sun long days and hot are on the way
 
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Sun is punishing in the Sonoran Desert... Wipers are good for about 6 months here...Arizona y Sonora.

For some reason wiper blades are much cheaper in Mexico than the US for the same brands/quality. Wipers are just one of those things that have a crazy mark-up nowadays.
All truth, rubber made from oil, oil costs starting to rise again. thank you for your thoughts
 

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You are really a wonderful person. Thanks for not just giving a basic understanding, but a logical approach. I did see YT guys pending the arm because the wrong way the rubber meets the road/window haha. Still its frustratingg with this issue, because of the way the dealer dealt with me on the phone. I will try again to wipe and wash the window.
A dealership can make or break the experience. It's the same with some responses online. Try to stay positive! All things considered, it's not the worst issue to have ;)
 

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thanks for reply.
I will look at them on line. I hope they are the push button like the factory type.
And yes safety is my concern because what is happening appears to be too much torque on the wiper arms also the duress(I guess) that puts on the wiper motor.
They use a universal attachment that has to be partially disassembled to work. I'm sure there's a youtube video to show how to do it. I'm also certain that if I can do it, you can do it.
 

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Thanks for response. I was considering comet. But wondered if it was too abrasive. You settled that issue for me.
Well, it is abrasive. But it won't scratch things that are as hard as glass or porcelain. Plus, you only have to do this a few times a year. I've never had it scratch anything it was meant to be used on.
 

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I’ve had similar experience with my daughter’ Chevy Spark, I found it after using the “green bug off”( don’t remember the exact brand name” windshield washer fluid, for love bugs a few years back, made the wipers skip horribly. Had to clean the glass and wait for it to “wear off” I think some car wash with wax in it has a similar effect, but not as bad as the big wind shield washer stuff. Never used it again.
 

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There is no reason to spend that much on blades every year when you can just find serviceable ones and maintain them. The OEM ones on the Maverick are not bad at all. There is nothing significant in the rubber compound or design that justifies spending $20+ extra per blade. The issue is likely and usually elsewhere.
How much are OEM blades??
Less than $10 each?
I replace my blades at least every 4-6 months for $40 a year.
 
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How much are OEM blades??
Less than $10 each?
I replace my blades at least every 4-6 months for $40 a year.
OEM blades are around $20 each. Compared to most at the auto store they are around $10-$20 cheaper.

Whatever you are buying, is like the 99 cents store version apparently, so it would be great if you could link it for reference to save people some money ;)

Make sure they are the right size and adapter for the Maverick in your link please. I'm guessing they are the bottom of the barrel types? Nothing wrong with that, but if you have to replace them so often it's likely part of the reason. There is a medium ground for quality. You shouldn't have to spend $40 on each blade and you shouldn't have to buy the cheapest of the cheap over and over because they don't last. That's what I'm saying.

Read my previous post on how to service your blades, especially those cheaper ones because they make it very easy to do. In fact, for those ones you can just buy the rubber inserts alone for even cheaper if that's your goal. All you need it the length. But you could just service them and your windshield regularly and cut that $40 down to $10 a year or longer. I actually applaud your choice of wiper blades which is why I was asking for specifics.
 
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Fryck

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OEM blades are around $20 each. Compared to most at the auto store they are around $10-$20 cheaper.

Whatever you are buying, is like the 99 cents store version apparently, so it would be great if you could link it for reference to save people some money ;)
Make sure they are the right size and adapter for the Maverick in your link please.
The blades that I am buying are made by Trico. They aren't Dollar Tree blades. Thank you.
I was able to buy OEM at dealer cost, and I still choose to buy these.
I am perfectly capable of knowing what the correct size and fitment is. I most certainly don't need it explaned to me.
I don't need to post a link when I've already said exactly what I buy and where I buy it.
I don't care to advertise for retailers.
 

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The blades that I am buying are made by Trico. They aren't Dollar Tree blades. Thank you.
I was able to buy OEM at dealer cost, and I still choose to buy these.
I am perfectly capable of knowing what the correct size and fitment is. I most certainly don't need it explaned to me.
I don't need to post a link when I've already said exactly what I buy and where I buy it.
I don't care to advertise for retailers.
Not sure why you took this as a personal attack. It wasn't. But thanks for being so helpful! (y)

See my previous postings if you want to turn that $40 a year into $10 (allegedly) for a year +

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Nvm, I thought I remembered you from the A/S/S thread. Tell me more about being condescending... nothing more condescending than asking rhetorical questions you are going to dismiss the answers for like you did in that post and this one. It's clear you are not comprehending the subjects you are commenting on and that's why you take offense to anyone with helpful information other than what "you know".
 
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Fryck

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Not sure why you took this as a personal attack. It wasn't. But thanks for being so helpful! (y)

See my previous postings if you want to turn that $40 a year into $10 (allegedly) for a year +
Because you were insinuating that I didn't have a clue. Wrong size, wrong adapter, dollar tree etc. It came across as incredibly rude.
I have no desire to see your previous postings. I will continue to spend $10 per blade every 4-6 months for a very important safety feature.
Thank you.
 

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I always switch to Bosch Icons and never have an issue with those.
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