Has anyone successfully tested for parasitic drain?

[jcgaskil]

I added a few electrical mods to my 2022 XLT including the Kia homelink mirror, ambient lighting, and wireless charger. My car is a bit over 2 years old and the battery died recently. I know the vehicle goes to sleep but that some devices are still drawing charge (e.g. homelink). Given this, I want to run a parsitic drain test on the battery. Has anyone attempted this on their Maverick? I have done this on older cars using the negative lead on the battery with everything off in the car but the vehicle did not have a hood release alarm. I believe it is possible if I can locate how to disconnect or turn off the hood latch alarm? While I believe everything else in the car turns off after some time, this one is key. Looking for any recommendations here. While I don't think related, I want to verify I am not adding a parsitic drain with the mods. Thx

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[fossil]

Ideally the hood alarm would be a normally open switch closing (drawing power) when hood is agar.

 

[budpalumbo]

Most vehicles will ignore a hood when setting an alarm, or will ignore it after a period of time. So it could slightly extend the sleep time or have a higher draw show until X module sleeps while not affecting sleep time. You could set something on the button or just trip the latch closed to make the truck think the hood is shut too.

 

[EONR24]

Most vehicles will ignore a hood when setting an alarm, or will ignore it after a period of time. So it could slightly extend the sleep time or have a higher draw show until X module sleeps while not affecting sleep time. You could set something on the button or just trip the latch closed to make the truck think the hood is shut too.

The problem with the Maverick is that all accessories take 75 minutes to shut off even after the vehicle is locked. Here's how to change it.

 

[Jeffs72MGB]

This might help. This guy is good.

 

[budpalumbo]

The problem with the Maverick is that all accessories take 75 minutes to shut off even after the vehicle is locked. Here's how to change it.

If I don't have published information for sleep times I assume an hour anymore. I won't change a customers settings to make a things change differently.

 

[EONR24]

If I don't have published information for sleep times I assume an hour anymore. I won't change a customers settings to make a things change differently.

I don't understand what you mean at all. After you turn off the engine and lock the Maverick, the accessories stay powered for 4500 seconds until they shut off. During this 4500 seconds, if accessories are plugged in (or wired in) to the Maverick, they WILL drain the battery.

Im just telling you there is a drain already built into the coding.. and that you can change it and lower it via forscan.

Just get a battery voltage reader, or read it via OBD2 wireless adapter.. and read the voltage over a period of time. 99% sure the drain is coming from an accessory just like the OP states.

Or just Get rid of that Kia mirror and install a Lexus wireless homelink mirror and boom fixed. no more drain.

 

[SLJ]

Run the test leads out from under the hood and close it. You'll find the Mav is never totally off. Accessories will shut off after a period of time but the computer and some of the connected modules always draw a small amount. If it sets for days, leave it on a trickle charger.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I don't understand what you mean at all. After you turn off the engine and lock the Maverick, the accessories stay powered for 4500 seconds until they shut off. During this 4500 seconds, if accessories are plugged in (or wired in) to the Maverick, they WILL drain the battery.

Im just telling you there is a drain already built into the coding.. and that you can change it and lower it via forscan.

Just get a battery voltage reader, or read it via OBD2 wireless adapter.. and read the voltage over a period of time. 99% sure the drain is coming from an accessory just like the OP states.

Or just Get rid of that Kia mirror and install a Lexus wireless homelink mirror and boom fixed. no more drain.

It appear that if you double lock with fob, door handle, or key pad some of the items will turn off in a second or two. Dash, radio, courtesy lights but not the dash power port. It also appears that the fob is approaching detector is may also be turned off as I hear fewer clicks as I approach with fob and have to have hand behind door handle before I do hear Think maybe it is considered that you may be leaving truck for awhile as I don't think I hear what may be a pump running after double lock. Not definitely as the pump sound is intermittent any way. Just run maintainer hookup to front grill and plug in. Also due to the constant or intermittent occuring loads consider at least a 4 amp maintainer so it can have a reasonable amount for battery.

 

[EONR24]

It appear that if you double lock with fob, door handle, or key pad some of the items will turn off in a second or two. Dash, radio, courtesy lights but not the dash power port. It also appears that the fob is approaching detector is may also be turned off as I hear fewer clicks as I approach with fob and have to have hand behind door handle before I do hear Think maybe it is considered that you may be leaving truck for awhile as I don't think I hear what may be a pump running after double lock. Not definitely as the pump sound is intermittent any way. Just run maintainer hookup to front grill and plug in. Also due to the constant or intermittent occuring loads consider at least a 4 amp maintainer so it can have a reasonable amount for battery.

Yeah I mean the Hybrid in general has more drain on the car battery than the ecoboost does. Also Keyless entry on the Lariats can cause excessive drain, especially if the key fob is left in range. If you look at some of the other car forums, many hybrids across all car brands are having battery drain issues. A trickle charger like you mentioned can be a good fix. An AGM battery would be a good upgrade as well.

Mitigate the drain. Maintain the Charge.

 

[Robber's Roost]

I believe it is possible if I can locate how to disconnect or turn off the hood latch alarm?

I measured parasitic draw on my EB Lariat when I was finding the battery not fully charged after short drives. I found leaving the hood open during the parasitic measurement did not affect the results. Just lock the doors and come back in about 45 minutes or so keeping the fob out of range (lariat only) and make your measurement. I used a current clamp "linked below" since I didn't want to disconnect the battery. It has a low current range which made it accurate and very easy to use. I found the parasitic draw to be very low, like 25mA or so which is good. I found the reason for my not fully charged battery seems to be by design because the charging system does not fully top off the battery during short drives especially if start/stop is left enabled. A battery eliminator solves the problem during times of only short trips and I try to remember to disable start/stop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[The Real Maverick]

Yes. In my hybrid things stay active for 90 minutes after shutting it off. Then no drain after 90 minutes.

 

[budpalumbo]

I don't understand what you mean at all. After you turn off the engine and lock the Maverick, the accessories stay powered for 4500 seconds until they shut off. During this 4500 seconds, if accessories are plugged in (or wired in) to the Maverick, they WILL drain the battery.

Im just telling you there is a drain already built into the coding.. and that you can change it and lower it via forscan.

Just get a battery voltage reader, or read it via OBD2 wireless adapter.. and read the voltage over a period of time. 99% sure the drain is coming from an accessory just like the OP states.

Or just Get rid of that Kia mirror and install a Lexus wireless homelink mirror and boom fixed. no more drain.

Huh? I can't/won't go into a customers car and change timeouts to suit making a draw test something different than they (the owner) has set. Unplugging shit in lighter sockets will happen if the car has ports that are always hot. If there is something large and obvious I'll unplug it, but generally its just a phone charger or some hidden wiring.

I don't understand what you mean at all. After you turn off the engine and lock the Maverick, the accessories stay powered for 4500 seconds until they shut off. During this 4500 seconds, if accessories are plugged in (or wired in) to the Maverick, they WILL drain the battery.

Im just telling you there is a drain already built into the coding.. and that you can change it and lower it via forscan.

Just get a battery voltage reader, or read it via OBD2 wireless adapter.. and read the voltage over a period of time. 99% sure the drain is coming from an accessory just like the OP states.

Or just Get rid of that Kia mirror and install a Lexus wireless homelink mirror and boom fixed. no more drain.

So we don't understand each other. OP asked about hood switches and doing a draw test. IME hood switches are either A: ignored by the alarm if the hood is open when armed, or B: ignored after X minutes of time. In B the draw may be heavier than mapped/expected until time X but generally won't be the cause of an extended draw. OP can try a test with the hood open or flip the latch (hood switch built into latch) or put a book on top of the hood switch (pop up style) to do a draw test. I don't know what the mav has, haven't done a draw test. Changing timeouts on a car isn't something I'll do to force sleep mode earlier than what normally happens. Doing so may reset the module, or cause a false sleep mode from something backfeeding a signal that under normal circumstances keeps another module awake. I can't fake a test in the shop or alter parameters off what the owner experiences(mechanic). The obd2 "port" on the mav is a gateway module. Anything plugged into it has the potential to keep one or more can buses awake and is in itself a parasitic draw so anything plugged there won't work.
To test for a parasitic draw don't just monitor voltage, look at the current flowing. Voltage drop testing across fuses is a great way to do it. (for a fused draw)

 

[EONR24]

Huh? I can't/won't go into a customers car and change timeouts to suit making a draw test something different than they (the owner) has set. Unplugging shit in lighter sockets will happen if the car has ports that are always hot. If there is something large and obvious I'll unplug it, but generally its just a phone charger or some hidden wiring.

So we don't understand each other. OP asked about hood switches and doing a draw test. IME hood switches are either A: ignored by the alarm if the hood is open when armed, or B: ignored after X minutes of time. In B the draw may be heavier than mapped/expected until time X but generally won't be the cause of an extended draw. OP can try a test with the hood open or flip the latch (hood switch built into latch) or put a book on top of the hood switch (pop up style) to do a draw test. I don't know what the mav has, haven't done a draw test. Changing timeouts on a car isn't something I'll do to force sleep mode earlier than what normally happens. Doing so may reset the module, or cause a false sleep mode from something backfeeding a signal that under normal circumstances keeps another module awake. I can't fake a test in the shop or alter parameters off what the owner experiences(mechanic). The obd2 "port" on the mav is a gateway module. Anything plugged into it has the potential to keep one or more can buses awake and is in itself a parasitic draw so anything plugged there won't work.
To test for a parasitic draw don't just monitor voltage, look at the current flowing. Voltage drop testing across fuses is a great way to do it. (for a fused draw)

Pretty uncommon for there to be parasitic draws on a relatively new vehicle with no added accessories.. You can easily see how to test for parasitic drains from a YouTube video. It's not as complicated as you're making out to be.

and then What happens when your parasitic drain tester shows no issues?

You as a mechanic say "yep no problems found" and they come back again say "hey my cars dying again and going into deep sleep mode"

I see ford mechanics use voltage testers on Motorcraft batteries all the time and the voltage testers say that the battery is fine, when it is indeed not fine and its on its way out and needs replaced.

Specifically the FORD MAVERICK has deep sleep issues caused by drains due to accessories being plugged or wired in and a long power time out and the motorcraft batteries go bad fast and it cannot maintain a charge high enough for the Battery control module to be happy so deep sleep happens.

Test with a multimeter or a tester and you won't see any problems

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