Powered Sub & Rear Speaker Install in Maverick Hybrid [Video: How to Wire Amp, Subwoofer, Speakers]

[013SamIAm]

anyone know about the pigtail for any of the speakers? Would like to get the correct ones and keep it looking good so no problems down the road.

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[uh50]

anyone know about the pigtail for any of the speakers? Would like to get the correct ones and keep it looking good so no problems down the road.

One member wrote: 72-5602 for the front doors and 72-5600 for the rear and tweeter (you’ll have to be patient and pay extra close attention that you’re connecting negative to negative etc).

The same member later wrote: anyway, I found these that people on the bronco forum are using (and pretty sure they have the same plugs) but finding the same in bronco threads…. Some saying the 5600 won’t fit, others saying they used them and they fit fine with no issues. These appear to be a more perfect fit (and actually clip in).


For a definitive thread on speaker upgrades, refer to this one: #1 (Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation).

Hope this helps some.

 

[java5828]

Is there a way to splice into the rear speaker wires without removing all the panels? Those panels look pretty rough and I’m just adding a powered subwoofer to fill out the lower end.
I saw some wiring when flipping the rear seats down. Just wondering and any advice would help.

 

[Jawny]

I recently installed new rear speakers and a powered subwoofer in my Hybrid. Sound amazing. Hopefully this helps someone looking to upgrade.

Is the install or approach going to be different if you have the B&O system?

 

[Darnon]

Is the install or approach going to be different if you have the B&O system?

Which aspect? Replacing the rear speakers methodology is the same. For a subwoofer you can just use the OE subwoofer output either through a LOC or to the amp directly if it's capable of high-level input. Either splice in parallel, Motorcraft WPT-1456 if disconnecting the OE sub, or a PAC APH-FD02 if you might also want to run the front audio through a different amplifier.

 

[Jawny]

Which aspect? Replacing the rear speakers methodology is the same. For a subwoofer you can just use the OE subwoofer output either through a LOC or to the amp directly if it's capable of high-level input. Either splice in parallel, Motorcraft WPT-1456 if disconnecting the OE sub, or a PAC APH-FD02 if you might also want to run the front audio through a different amplifier.

I have been searching hideaway subs (Kicker or cerwin vega) and wanted to make the install as simple as possible. I am not a pro but not a novice, but your videos have intrigued me. Still waiting on the delivery of my truck (next week) so it may have enough thump for me. Contacted the company for the wiring harness and that makes even easier. Just curious what the easier way to tie one of those subs into the system.

 

[uh50]

Received a Rockville RW68CA Subwoofer, 4" x 6" Infinity Reference REF-6432CFX, and 6.5" Infinity Reference REF-6532IX. I installed the 4" x 6" two days ago and was amazed that the fuller sound, with good bright highs, and vibrant full mid range. Not much bass even though the frequency range of 75Hz – 21kHz. But as some have suggested here on MTC, the rear speaker feeds may be limited in the bass that the ACM sends. I don't know if the DSP Amp will overcome this or not. Some have suggested that possibly this limitation could be overcome using Forscan. This is something I'll research. None-the-less, I didn't hear any 75Hz sounds from the rear speakers, but it's not a big deal as I will have the front 6.5" speaker and the subwoofer to fill out lower parts of the mid bass. It'll be interesting to see what can be accomplished with the various sub settings and the DSP Amp's settings.

I set the fade 3/4 of the way to the rear about 1/2 way between center and the rear. The Infinity speakers really sound nice and the fronts added a little treble and some upper mid bass. I can't wait to see how everything sounds when I get the 6.5" installed in the front.

After some research, I ordered a Puzu PZ-C7 DSP Amp rated at 45 Watts RMS per channel. At first I found it on Aliexpress, but ordering from them required sending photo copies of Drivers License, credit card, and a credit card statement which I'm reluctant to do. But I found an eBay dealer that sells the DSP Amp. It comes with software for a computer or phone and a loopback T-harness made specifically for 2018 and up Fords. The vendor providing the harness for the Maverick is what sold me on this DSP Amp

I mounted a HDPE cutting board and the sub today on the Maverick's B&O mounts. It took quite a while because there seems to be no rhyme or reason for the hole placement on the B&O mount and nothing aligned. Maybe that's just the way B&O designed their sub and Ford made the mount to fit. It took careful measurement to determine location and layout the holes to drill in the HDPE. After drilling the holes, countersink and determining they will match up to the B&O subwoofer mount, I painted it flat black. After it dried, I mounted the HDPE board and the sub. In the next day or so, after installing the 6.5" front speakers, I'll run the #8 AWG power cable, ground cable, RCA cables, remote wiring, and the sensing power wire. I'll also have to cut some of the mounting screws length off and install some Kilmat on the rear cab wall.

I learned today that the DSP Amp is three weeks to a month out. I'll be glad when it arrives and I can get it installed. I guess that gives me time to further research the ACM rear speakers bass output to see if Forscan can be used to remove any limitation. We'll see.

 

[Ratbones2002]

Is there a way to splice into the rear speaker wires without removing all the panels? Those panels look pretty rough and I’m just adding a powered subwoofer to fill out the lower end.
I saw some wiring when flipping the rear seats down. Just wondering and any advice would help.

I'm wondering the same thing.

 

[Havick]

MaverickMods did a write up on locating the rear speaker wires without removing the panels.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...o-tap-into-the-left-and-right-speakers.28825/

 

[HushCarAudio]

Has anyone verified if the rear speaker are full range or not? I'm asking because on the F150s they have lower frequencies blocked on the rear speakers. I just hoping nobody is missing out on some free bass. We usually recommend tapping the front speakers for all platforms so not F150 specific.

 

[uh50]

Has anyone verified if the rear speaker are full range or not? I'm asking because on the F150s they have lower frequencies blocked on the rear speakers. I just hoping nobody is missing out on some free bass. We usually recommend tapping the front speakers for all platforms so not F150 specific.

One poster here on MTC has suggested that the rear speaker limitation is only when the "driver's seat" location is chosen under Sound Settings on the ACM display. He goes on to say that when "All Seats" is chosen, it removes any limitation.

Here is my experience. I have Infinity Reference 4" x 6" rear speakers, Infinity Ref 6.5" front speakers, a Rockville RW68CA subwoofer, along with the Puzu PZ-C7—truly a budget installation. After changing to an "All Seats" sound, my system in the rear came alive. Although my 4" x 6" rear Infinity speakers have a frequency response of 75Hz - 21kHz at 3 ohms, 45W RMS, 135W peak Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 92dB, the subwoofer fills in nicely with the filter set at 100Hz.

After making the change, I noticed much more sound from the rear speakers and now have my fade set to center. I do have the Puzu DSP installed now and and I do not know if that helps to remove any limitation, although, some suggest that DSP amps "normally" take their input signal from the ACM front speaker channels only. That may be true as the DSP output includes the subwoofer channels as well.

The rear speakers hold their own and I notice the tweeters working nicely on certain types of music and on specific songs/album, especially instrumental. Bugs Henderson and Hubert Laws sound like the entire system was made for their albums. Just great sounds for this low cost system.

Well, all that is to say, that I don't think the rear bass is limited on my system...maybe it's because of the "All Seats" sound setting or tha the DSP takes their input from the ACM front two channels. Maybe one of these days someone will bench test the Puzu DZ-C7 DSP.

Hope that helps some. Thanks for the service you offer. It's needed.

 

[Toddman45]

@whybird, I almost installed 4x6's in the rear pillar like you, but went with 2-way 4" instead as I installed a slightly later 10"sub under the rear of the ps backseat.

Setup looks nice in yours.

 

[Toddman45]

Has anyone verified if the rear speaker are full range or not? I'm asking because on the F150s they have lower frequencies blocked on the rear speakers. I just hoping nobody is missing out on some free bass. We usually recommend tapping the front speakers for all platforms so not F150 specific.

I can confirm the rear speakers don't get a full range signal even after setting the EQ to Flat Via Forscan. They do get some bass but not all of it as my new 4-in kicker two ways do put out mid bass, but I tapped the rear speakers for the signal to my 10-in sub and songs don't sound like they normally do, I'm going to have to tap the fronts to get the full signal or see if I can. Fingers crossed

I also have all seats occupied set in my head unit not driver only position. So on the previous posters comment that's not true it's limited regardless.

 

[daemonic3]

Well it has certainly been a while since being on this forum! Quick backstory before I try my next experiment:

My daughter started with an old 2010 ford ranger, and we are both audiophiles, so I put in a decent JVC headunit and bazooka tube, and infinity speakers to replace the stocks. She drove that for about 3 years until we needed something more reliable and got a 2023 Mav. However, I am not getting a Lariat for a 19yo and only the basic stereo is available on XLT (at least back then, maybe different now). Long story short I figured we'd just add the sub afterward for a few hundred bucks rather than thousands for the lariat.

I took my inspiration from Whybrid for the clever location of putting the underseat sub in an area going completely unused (behind the seat). I had heard about the rears not getting full frequency, so we tapped the front door speakers and sent to the speaker level inputs on the Alpine PWE-S8.

2 key learnings:
1) Mounting a plywood to the unused factory mounting brackets then mounting the subwoofer to the wood, does not resonate throughout the truck like you'd think! It needs to vibrate the upholstry and floor to be heard/felt throughout. To solve this, I had to put a few small pillows that compress from the subwoofer to the backseat springs, and stuff rolled towels down under the sub (around where the tire jack sits) to allow vibration to travel toward the floor. It would sound better with more packing but I want to allow airflow and avoid overheating. I am not sure if Whybrid encountered this or his install passes through the upholstry better.
2) The factory rolloff just is not good. My daughter has complained (nicely) about it not sounding nearly as good as her ranger, where I could set every crossover and the bazooka saw the full bass range. There are certain songs that we know what they SHOULD sound like, and below certain frequencies the bass is just non-existent. And I know an 8" sub can handle them if they see them.

So I am adding a Kicker47KEYLOC line output converter that is a "smart" DSP that can correct for factory rolloff. That way the factory speakers can just do what they do, and I don't have to try to find the balance of the 3-band head unit EQ and the subwoofer gain knob. It is literally impossible to compensate for that factory EQ curve.

If anyone is still reading this thread, let me know if interested in my results, or any pics are desired of the existing install.

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