Pennzoil platinum full synthetic vs mobil 1 advanced full synthetic oil in 2.0 ecoboost engine

[NoVaJimmy]

I've never had an engine fail in my lifetime and I'm pretty old so that's about 1.5 million miles.

No one in my family has ever had an engine fail so that's about 5 million miles.

No one in my close circle of friends has ever had an engine fail, so that, 15 million miles.

It's always ancillary equipment that fails. Water pumps. Steering pumps. Alternators. Thermostats. Air conditioners. Power windows.

Goes to show, as long as you use oil, exact name/brand of oil really does not matter much at all. It's not as technical as most people think.

Changing it at regular intervals and keeping it at proper level is 100x more significant than brand of oil.

Conversely, one mis-step, running a short distance with low or no oil will undue years of pristine maintenance.

You're driving around in a vehicle that has what constitutes the technological equivalent of a tractor engine by today's standards. Let's talk about oil quality and specs when you decide to drive a vehicle with a direct injected and turbocharged engine and then we can talk about oil quality. That tractor engine in your hybrid could probably run fine on vegetable oil (used). We don't see the 2.5L engines with severe carbon buildup in the oil control rings since your cylinder temps don't reach a high enough heat range to burn oil and turn it to carbon. This is a common issue with ecoboost engines and exactly what happens when you have pre-ignition and cylinder pressure and temps skyrocket causing oil on the pistons and in the rings to burn and turn to carbon.

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[Bob The Builder]

I'm staying out of this discussion. Mobil 1 for me. First oil change at 1K. All subsequent oil changes at 5K because that is one year's worth of driving for me. That's all. Nuff said. Done.

Speaking of my truck, where in hell is it??

 

[Montana]

You're driving around in a vehicle that has what constitutes the technological equivalent of a tractor engine by today's standards. Let's talk about oil quality and specs when you decide to drive a vehicle with a direct injected and turbocharged engine and then we can talk about oil quality. That tractor engine in your hybrid could probably run fine on vegetable oil (used). We don't see the 2.5L engines with severe carbon buildup in the oil control rings your cylinder temps don't reach a high enough heat range to burn oil and turn it to carbon. This is a common issue with ecoboost engines and exactly what happens when you have pre-ignition and cylinder pressure and temps skyrocket causing oil on the pistons and in the rings to burn and turn to carbon.

That, and because it's never happened to him, it obviously can't happen to anyone else so everyone should push their oil to the breaking point of it's viscosity limits.

Even if I had the 2.5L (and I did previously) I would not push it that far. Lastly, what he pays in service fee's for one oil change, we get 2 or 3 changes out of for the same cost.

And we know what oil is in our trucks.

Short story time:
My family had been taking their RAM 2500 to the dealer for oil changes for years "just in case for warranty issues". Come to find out, that dealer decided to use 15W40 instead of what the manual specified. For the 2019 RAM 2500 6.7L it specified 10W30 or 5W40. It specifically said NOT to use 15W40. Also, the sample I turned in proved to be a synthetic blend (likely T5). Now I change their oil with Rotella T6 5W-40 and they save hundreds PLUS the benefit of knowing what is in their engine (for warranty purposes) and the quality of it.

So it's a little funny to read someone ranting about never having issues, giving out advice, and telling people "brand doesn't matter" when they don't even change their own oil or know what's in their engine currently.

I'll never understand why someone gives two 's if someone wants to change their oil "early". Not one single argument is going to prove that it's worse than changing oil too late... right? End of discussion then @GPSMan It absolutely is as technical as science and engineers have proven.

 

[GPSMan]

That, and because it's never happened to him, it obviously can't happen to anyone else so everyone should push their oil to the breaking point of it's viscosity limits.

Even if I had the 2.5L (and I did previously) I would not push it that far. Lastly, what he pays in service fee's for one oil change, we get 2 or 3 changes out of for the same cost.

And we know what oil is in our trucks.

Short story time:
My family had been taking their RAM 2500 to the dealer for oil changes for years "just in case for warranty issues". Come to find out, that dealer decided to use 15W40 instead of what the manual specified. For the 2019 RAM 2500 6.7L it specified 10W30 or 5W40. It specifically said NOT to use 15W40. Also, the sample I turned in proved to be a synthetic blend (likely T5). Now I change their oil with Rotella T6 5W-40 and they save hundreds PLUS the benefit of knowing what is in their engine (for warranty purposes) and the quality of it.

So it's a little funny to read someone ranting about never having issues, giving out advice, and telling people "brand doesn't matter" when they don't even change their own oil or know what's in their engine currently.

I'll never understand why someone gives two 's if someone wants to change their oil "early". Not one single argument is going to prove that it's worse than changing oil too late... right? End of discussion then It absolutely is as technical as science and engineers have proven.

I don't know who you are talking to, you didn't specify.

Me personally, I always use Mobil 1.
I usually buy in bulk when on sale and do it myself after the two free ones at the dealership.

At 10,000 mile intervals, sounds like me with the hybrid is paying half of EcoBoost engines, due to their admitted carbon build-up needs more frequent oil changes.

Cheers!

Edit:

Still waiting for my first BlackStone lab report from the Maverick. They usually ( well always actually) show the oil is good quality well past 10,000 miles. On my older (hybrid) cars I usually went about 15,000 miles with the lab reports to back it up.

 

[Montana]

Geez,...

Ecoboost engines by your own admission really suck! Why would anyone buy one???

I don't know who you are talking to, you didn't specify.

Me personally, I always use Mobil 1.
I usually buy in bulk when on sale and do it myself after the two free ones at the dealership.

At 10,000 mile intervals, sounds like me with the hybrid is paying half of EcoBoost engines, due to their admitted carbon build-up needs more frequent oil changes.

Cheers!

Subjective as usual.

4WD/AWD & 4k towing and isn't there a recall out currently with no real solution for 2.5L's grenading themselves?

Also, "normal" service interval? Again... Is it worse to change too often, or not enough? I personally couldn't care less what YOU do... but you seem to think sharing your choice the way you do is helpful and it's not. It's nothing more than an opinion.

Forgive me for not being a mind reader when you state you got your oil changed by the dealer and especially after the info you have presented here. You may be saving money on those durations. Congrats. Sounds like you need a personal victory. *slow clap

But do you have 4WD/AWD or 4K? Nope. Thanks for letting us know YOU don't need them (as if we didn't already). BTW, since it's a question of needs and not wants for some people and there are only two options, I think it goes without saying that engine choice is subjective as well and shouldn't be grounds to use as an insult the way you attempt to (not the first time either). It's no secret majority of people in a Maverick would prefer better MPG via a hybrid, so stop acting like it's some noble hierarchy.

 

[Zotman]

WTF? I just changed the Mobil 1 in my Hybrid at 4,500 miles (16,000 total vehicle miles) and it was black as tar. And GPSMan shows a dipstick at 10,000 miles with oil that looks like it just came out of the jug? How is that even possible???

 

[GPSMan]

Have to admit, seems weird.

I did A BUNCH of miles (over 6,000) in one month tho.

 

[RedRider]

You're driving around in a vehicle that has what constitutes the technological equivalent of a tractor engine by today's standards. Let's talk about oil quality and specs when you decide to drive a vehicle with a direct injected and turbocharged engine and then we can talk about oil quality. That tractor engine in your hybrid could probably run fine on vegetable oil (used). We don't see the 2.5L engines with severe carbon buildup in the oil control rings since your cylinder temps don't reach a high enough heat range to burn oil and turn it to carbon. This is a common issue with ecoboost engines and exactly what happens when you have pre-ignition and cylinder pressure and temps skyrocket causing oil on the pistons and in the rings to burn and turn to carbon.

Bulls**t. Which "tractor engine" has SEFI multiport fuel injection and a modified Atkinson engine cycle? Have you actually driven an ecoboost engine? And if you have, why are you using inadequate oil and/or inadequate gasoline in it? Take one apart that has been properly maintained and fueled after (say) 100k, and note the very good condition for that mileage. I see people ranting here about carboning up the valves (which simply does not happen unless you drive with the engine light on for more that a small amount of time, and I've yet to see anyone complaining about carboning up their rings that also does not happen unless maybe you're using the cheapest 50-octane crap fuel with waste oil mixed in from China or somewhere. Buy the oil that meets the Ford spec and change it at maybe 70% of the computer recommendation, buy TopTier fuel as is specified, and get your engine faults fixed promptly. It should last at least 300k and maybe twice that, just like the severe-duty taxis in New York do it.

 

[RedRider]

WTF? I just changed the Mobil 1 in my Hybrid at 4,500 miles (16,000 total vehicle miles) and it was black as tar. And GPSMan shows a dipstick at 10,000 miles with oil that looks like it just came out of the jug? How is that even possible???

Is there something wrong with the oil that you're buying, or maybe you have a misfire or you drive all the time with your foot on the mats like a Nascar driver? The oil at 10k should look like it could go another 10k without issues. I think the Blackstone people would concur.

 

[GPSMan]

Bulls**t. Which "tractor engine" has SEFI multiport fuel injection and a modified Atkinson engine cycle? Have you actually driven an ecoboost engine? And if you have, why are you using inadequate oil and/or inadequate gasoline in it? Take one apart that has been properly maintained and fueled after (say) 100k, and note the very good condition for that mileage. I see people ranting here about carboning up the valves (which simply does not happen unless you drive with the engine light on for more that a small amount of time, and I've yet to see anyone complaining about carboning up their rings that also does not happen unless maybe you're using the cheapest 50-octane crap fuel with waste oil mixed in from China or somewhere. Buy the oil that meets the Ford spec and change it at maybe 70% of the computer recommendation, buy TopTier fuel as is specified, and get your engine faults fixed promptly. It should last at least 300k and maybe twice that, just like the severe-duty taxis in New York do it.

You know good when you see it.

 

[NoVaJimmy]

Bulls**t. Which "tractor engine" has SEFI multiport fuel injection and a modified Atkinson engine cycle? Have you actually driven an ecoboost engine? And if you have, why are you using inadequate oil and/or inadequate gasoline in it? Take one apart that has been properly maintained and fueled after (say) 100k, and note the very good condition for that mileage. I see people ranting here about carboning up the valves (which simply does not happen unless you drive with the engine light on for more that a small amount of time, and I've yet to see anyone complaining about carboning up their rings that also does not happen unless maybe you're using the cheapest 50-octane crap fuel with waste oil mixed in from China or somewhere. Buy the oil that meets the Ford spec and change it at maybe 70% of the computer recommendation, buy TopTier fuel as is specified, and get your engine faults fixed promptly. It should last at least 300k and maybe twice that, just like the severe-duty taxis in New York do it.

Okay, easy, the engine in the Maverick hybrid is close to 20 years old with barely any updates since its inception. A dinosaur.....but surely you knew that being such an expert. I can tell that you have no clue what you're talking about with carbon on valves or why it happens, you know, because there's no fuel being sprayed on the valves like what happens with port injection. Please do some research, learn a few things and then we'll have a discussion. Like I said, this is my third ecoboost engine, over 300k miles on them combined and sorry but you will not get 100k miles out of a 2.0 ecoboost without carbon on the valves, unlike the 3.5 it does not have port injection. Please try again.

 

[JournaL]

Coming from multiple turbo engines in the past, along with multiple rounds of oil analysis (albeit on different engines such as the FA20DIT), the Amsoil 5w-30 signature series and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) are probably the top of the line oils.

Is it necessary? Absolutely not. Unless you want to for some reason you change your oil once a year/off cycle (every 8-12 months, guess its slightly cheaper), any quality synthetic oil should be fine (speaking for the EcoBoost). Mobil, Valvoline advanced, even Walmart's Supertech are all solid oils as along as your change it in the proper interval, or earlier if you are towing/mountain driving/excessive idling/winter or extreme weather.

On a separate note, has anyone started a spreadsheet compile list of oil analysis for the Maverick Engines? (Miles, type of oil use, and attached oil analysis report).

 

[georgeb]

if its under warranty im going to run whatever meets manufacturers spec.

for me thats the quaker state synthetic 5w-30.

oil change every 5k

pair that with the OEM Ford filter

i have nothing to worry about engine wise for 5yr/60k miles or whatever the warranty is.

 

[Zotman]

Quite the contrary: conservative driver—have 'punched' the accelerator just once since new. Perhaps I'm driving one of the 'soon to disintegrate' engines involved in the recall, but in over 60 years of oil changes never seen used oil as clean as GPSMan's photo.

 

[RedRider]

Okay, easy, the engine in the Maverick hybrid is close to 20 years old with barely any updates since its inception. A dinosaur.....but surely you knew that being such an expert. I can tell that you have no clue what you're talking about with carbon on valves or why it happens, you know, because there's no fuel being sprayed on the valves like what happens with port injection. Please do some research, learn a few things and then we'll have a discussion. Like I said, this is my third ecoboost engine, over 300k miles on them combined and sorry but you will not get 100k miles out of a 2.0 ecoboost without carbon on the valves, unlike the 3.5 it does not have port injection. Please try again.

Like I stated, tear one down. No significant carbon on the valves if you feed it correctly. I've seen one that was carboned up, but it had wrong fuel pressure for 75k and had a misfire as a result. This engine is 20 years old because it works well. If you want to call that a dinosaur, maybe you should drive an electric motor cuz gas engines are dinosaurs.

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