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acelee1895

acelee1895

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Also there is a splash guard to the rear of the passenger side rear wheel. I haven't looked behind it to see what it's protecting but am wondering if and if so how big a LiFePo4 could be installed to power a 120v pure sine inverter for reasonable amount of time?
There is lots of space especially if you take out the trim piece. Go back through the thread, I posted a picture of it in the truck and it takes up about 2/3 of the original space. could probably get 100AH in same space. If you remove the trim though, you have the whole compartment and could get several hundred AH in there.
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Snakeman89

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Well folks, I did it. I replaced my (edited) Lead acid battery with a LiFePo4 battery. I haven’t see any posts of anyone else doing it but if you know any, I would love to read them and see what they found. I’m not going to tell you how to do it because I’m not convinced it won’t break something yet but I can share what I’ve found so far. All of this is based on my 2023 Hybrid (edited) lariat with copilot 360.

I built and put in a 72 AH battery. I have a Bluetooth BMS attached to it so I can see a lot of stats with the main ones being power draw and amperage for charging.

Good news is that the truck seems to mostly be plug and play with it. Started right up and charges it with no issues so far. Bad news is that I still have the stupid deep sleep issue even though when I woke up this morning, battery was at 50% I think around 13 volts.

The dc-dc converter has dumped a max of 170 amps into the battery but it normally charges at a 120-130 amp level until it starts to fill up. So anyone who’s thinking of high amp draw accessories (winch or ac converter), unless you upgrade the battery, you should be good up to 120 amps continuous. Normal power draw while driving sits at about 20-40 amps dependent on what’s running for accessories.

Temperature seems to be a little bit of a concern, my batteries are good up to 45*C and we are getting up to the high 30’s low 40’s sometimes. I think using a bigger cell would help dissipate some of that heat.

Another thing is that it seems to like to charge the battery to between 50-55% until it randomly decides to charge full. I haven’t figured out if this is something with the batteries bms or the trucks yet

I’ll post a couple screenshots from my bms screen and if you have any questions or anything you would like me to check, let me know and I’ll try it out.

IMG_2282.png
IMG_2280.png
IMG_2279.png



img_2284-jpeg.jpg


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Awesome! But I'm sure that Ford has voided your warranty lol. They were threatening to void mine after I had replaced my own oil. Heck, they wanted to void it if I wanted to replace my own bed rails that they've damaged at deliver after they sprayed in my bed liner.
Crazy companies...
 
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acelee1895

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Awesome! But I'm sure that Ford has voided your warranty lol. They were threatening to void mine after I had replaced my own oil. Heck, they wanted to void it if I wanted to replace my own bed rails that they've damaged at deliver after they sprayed in my bed liner.
Crazy companies...
I've already changed my oil too. they will try it for anything. But legally speaking, they have to prove whatever they denied it for is the cause for what went wrong
 

wax87

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Why?
I have had all types of 12V batteries over the years...FLA, AGM, GEL, and LiFePo. Each has had its place and purpose, and I love the way my 200AH of LiFePo behaves in my RV, but I don't understand why they would be an improvement over AGM in a starter battery role?

I don't like the standing voltage of my OEM battery, but the instant I start my truck, the 12V is being charged at 14.5v, as indicated on my plug-in gauge, thanks to the HV battery. I haven't had the deep sleep issue after I started driving it at least twice a week, but while I confess to worrying a bit about my OEM battery, LiFePo wouldn't seem to be the answer to me.

Don't take this as accostive...I'm no battery expert, but I really don't understand the choice/thinking here.
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I've already changed my oil too. they will try it for anything. But legally speaking, they have to prove whatever they denied it for is the cause for what went wrong
Oh I get it. But I bet they'll fight tooth and nail to deny everything. Hopefully not though!
 

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Oh I get it. But I bet they'll fight tooth and nail to deny everything. Hopefully not though!
I'm also not super worried about it, i have 10k miles on it and just got it april. warranty will be up soon enough
 

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didnt see my first post so thought it didnt go th

didnt think my first post went through. It is obd2 port plugged in and is supposed to shut off when voltage gets too low. my guess is thats lower than the cutoff for the deep sleep
Someone posted sometime back that total draw on 12v ceased, if I remember correctly, at 6volts. So I assume BMS will charge at voltage range for 6 volt battery and at some voltage switch to 12v range. Computer will most likely need 3-5volts to continue to run and maintain memory tables.🤷
 
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Someone posted sometime back that total draw on 12v ceased, if I remember correctly, at 6volts. So I assume BMS will charge at voltage range for 6 volt battery and at some voltage switch to 12v range. Computer will most likely need 3-5volts to continue to run and maintain memory tables.🤷
6 volts is way too low for 12v battery, most are considered dead at 10v. also the by computer do you mean ecu? if so, I have the ecu measured at 12 volts
 

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There is lots of space especially if you take out the trim piece. Go back through the thread, I posted a picture of it in the truck and it takes up about 2/3 of the original space. could probably get 100AH in same space. If you remove the trim though, you have the whole compartment and could get several hundred AH in there.
Ahhhh! You are using the space behind the passenger rear wheel and not under the rear passenger seat???
 
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Ahhhh! You are using the space behind the passenger rear wheel and not under the rear passenger seat???
It is under the seat. I took out the plastic trim and it opened up the space
 
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6 volts is way too low for 12v battery, most are considered dead at 10v. also the by computer do you mean ecu? if so, I have the ecu measured at 12 volts
The ecu will most certainly shut down (aka "Deep Sleep"?) Say at 10.2 or ? volts but lots of chips themselves 3-5 volts so might be one for memory tables. When 12v is placed on jump pins the bms will wake up along with ecu the contactors will close and 12v bms will ask for proper current to recover 12v battery even if it's at 0.0 volts. I had an agm below start voltage for my noco 5 amp 12v charger. set it on 6v for 3 days then 12 volts for over a week then set it on recover mode which took a long time. Lots of rest time for noco to let battery cool. A 10 amp noco would probably been better.
 

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It is under the seat. I took out the plastic trim and it opened up the space
What's under this between wheel well and bumper??? Can LiFePo4 and pure sine inverter be housed here? (I doubt it).
IMG_20230705_140752.webp
 
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The ecu will most certainly shut down (aka "Deep Sleep"?) Say at 10.2 or ? volts but lots of chips themselves 3-5 volts so might be one for memory tables. When 12v is placed on jump pins the bms will wake up along with ecu the contactors will close and 12v bms will ask for proper current to recover 12v battery even if it's at 0.0 volts. I had an agm below start voltage for my noco 5 amp 12v charger. set it on 6v for 3 days then 12 volts for over a week then set it on recover mode which took a long time. Lots of rest time for noco to let battery cool. A 10 amp noco would probably been better.
I see what you’re saying now. I have a noco jump pack that I’ve used twice to jump it and it only pulls a percentage or two each time so it doesn’t take much to get it started
 
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What's under this between wheel well and bumper??? Can LiFePo4 and pure sine inverter be housed here? (I doubt it).
IMG_20230705_140752.jpg
I wouldn’t for two reasons. 1: it doesn’t seem to be water sealed. 2: it is far more protected in case of an accident inside the cab. There is plenty of room in there for an inverter as well if that’s what you want. Or could put the battery down there and the inverter behind the seat
 

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I see what you’re saying now. I have a noco jump pack that I’ve used twice to jump it and it only pulls a percentage or two each time so it doesn’t take much to get it started
The 12v cca is important to provide a lot of accessory power to start things and power them until and only until you turn key or push button to "Ready" the truck. Max reserve capacity is most important. An equal start and reserve capacity (to handle Max accessory needs) is all that's needed for ever how long you want that power. So I can see need for 2kw LiFePo4 plus possibly a tap to emergency charge a Tesla power wall.🥰🥰🤩🤩🤗🤗
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