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acelee1895

acelee1895

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Sorry, perhaps little wire communicates to dcdc converter the minimum voltage needed by BMS to charge battery?
That’s what I’m thinking. I wonder if I unplug it if the converter will charge at all
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huunvubu

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Well folks, I did it. I replaced my (edited) Lead acid battery with a LiFePo4 battery. I haven’t see any posts of anyone else doing it but if you know any, I would love to read them and see what they found. I’m not going to tell you how to do it because I’m not convinced it won’t break something yet but I can share what I’ve found so far. All of this is based on my 2023 Hybrid (edited) lariat with copilot 360.

I built and put in a 72 AH battery. I have a Bluetooth BMS attached to it so I can see a lot of stats with the main ones being power draw and amperage for charging.

Good news is that the truck seems to mostly be plug and play with it. Started right up and charges it with no issues so far. Bad news is that I still have the stupid deep sleep issue even though when I woke up this morning, battery was at 50% I think around 13 volts.
Have you had the TSB 23-2060: updated grabby brakes software done?

That software update also gets other modules updated to the latest firmware and when I have had it done I have not experienced a "Deep Sleep" since going on 2+ months now.

Link: TSB 23-2060: updated grabby brakes software
 
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acelee1895

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Somehow dcdc knows since I have seen on power point voltage monitor from near 13v up to 15.2v.
15.2 is high. Is that from the power access point in the bed?
 
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Have you had the TSB 23-2060: updated grabby brakes software done?

That software update also gets other modules updated to the latest firmware and when I have had it done I have not experienced a "Deep Sleep" since going on 2+ months now.

Link: TSB 23-2060: updated grabby brakes software
I haven’t had it in the shop at all. Is there a reason they don’t send that update via automatic update?
 

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15.2 is high. Is that from the power access point in the bed?
From dash power point. My cig style monitor shows +/- 0.1v accuracy. In winter at power up and heater, defroster, lights, possibly more on. Assume all aux heat to warm HVB also on. Seems like I read max would be 15.6 or maybe any accessory added would have to capability to accept up to that, would have to recheck. Some were complaining that they had things not work at some time assume they had over voltage protection.
 

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15.2 is high. Is that from the power access point in the bed?
Not that uncommon a voltage. I regularly see that at the battery with mine which had me pulling out my hair for a bit as two of the amplifiers I tried would shutdown from overvoltage protection at 15V. Strangely the voltage goes down as soon as you open the door (which further confounded diagnosing the issue). And at least according to FORSCan that is indeed what the DC/DC converter is being commanded to output.
 
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From dash power point. My cig style monitor shows +/- 0.1v accuracy. In winter at power up and heater, defroster, lights, possibly more on. Assume all aux heat to warm HVB also on. Seems like I read max would be 15.6 or maybe any accessory added would have to capability to accept up to that, would have to recheck. Some were complaining that they had things not work at some time assume they had over voltage protection.
I’ve never seen more than 14.6 from the ecu. I have an obd2 reader plugged in and I keep an eye on the ecu voltage to make sure the battery is powering everything correctly
 
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I
Not that uncommon a voltage. I regularly see that at the battery with mine which had me pulling out my hair for a bit as two of the amplifiers I tried would shutdown from overvoltage protection at 15V. Strangely the voltage goes down as soon as you open the door (which further confounded diagnosing the issue). And at least according to FORSCan that is indeed what the DC/DC converter is being commanded to output.
Not unreasonable for lead acid but I don’t want that for my battery. It’s too high. I haven’t seen that yet so I didn’t think it was likely
 

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I’ve never seen more than 14.6 from the ecu. I have an obd2 reader plugged in and I keep an eye on the ecu voltage to make sure the battery is powering everything correctly
Load up the 12v heat max everything on. The 14.6 is with 12v at about 12.2 (just guessing) will be 14.7 at 12v at 12.1 at around 11.8v. if ambient temp is less than about 40°F maybe with auto air on maybe not on will be 15.1-15.2v presumably heat pot to warm HVB probably comes on to start preheating it to 72° instead of waiting for you to turn truck on.
 
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Load up the 12v heat max everything on. The 14.6 is with 12v at about 12.2 (just guessing) will be 14.7 at 12v at 12.1 at around 11.8v. if ambient temp is less than about 40°F maybe with auto air on maybe not on will be 15.1-15.2v presumably heat pot to warm HVB probably comes on to start preheating it to 72° instead of waiting for you to turn truck on.
Not doing that. It’s 90 flipping degrees today. The BMS will trip and notify me if it goes over voltage so even if it does, it will just shut off charging till it returns to normal parameters
 
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acelee1895

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I think they said automatic updates would be phased in with the 2024 model year.
I really want e-awd for the new model, I’ll trade mine in for that if they announce it
 
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… didn’t read that part. Did the sitting for 8 hours with all doors locked for the BMS to relearn the battery. I don’t normally lock my car doors so I didn’t think it did the learned thing. I’ll do the battery sensor reset today
the did highbeam reset thing. didnt immediatly change anything but we will see
 

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the did highbeam reset thing. didnt immediatly change anything but we will see
🤞🤞🤞
Also there is a splash guard to the rear of the passenger side rear wheel. I haven't looked behind it to see what it's protecting but am wondering if and if so how big a LiFePo4 could be installed to power a 120v pure sine inverter for reasonable amount of time?
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