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PAC AP4-FD31

Aquaman14

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Has anyone use this ;and if so was it worth the cost?
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volksnuts

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I have one mounted to my amp rack
As soon as I install the amp rack I should be able to give feedback
I love that I don’t have to take the dash apart or run RCAs to the back since it plugs into the harness at the amp
 

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I am debating on the same unit. My local install shop says it is a must for the maverick install. You lose the factory amp with it, so you have to have something to power the front and the sub when you install it. It does have some cool features like being able to change the volume of your chimes and minimum volume setting via the control knob. I downloaded the manual to get more info on it here: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=2090

I can buy it on crutchfield or Amazon for $439, but the shop wants $510 for it.....
 

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I am debating on the same unit. My local install shop says it is a must for the maverick install. You lose the factory amp with it, so you have to have something to power the front and the sub when you install it. It does have some cool features like being able to change the volume of your chimes and minimum volume setting via the control knob. I downloaded the manual to get more info on it here: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=2090
It's not the only option. The PAC APH-FD02 works fine as a simple way to piggyback off the stock amp. Or on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 has more features and can be <$400.
 

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It's not the only option. The PAC APH-FD02 works fine as a simple way to piggyback off the stock amp. Or on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 has more features and can be <$400.
My local installer Said they won't use the axxess unit by Metra. They seem to think their equipment is not as solid as the PAC and have run into more issues.

I will definitely explore the other option and just piggybacking off of the existing amplifier harness.
 

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Aquaman14

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Hey Volks, I thought you had to connect part of it to the stereo itself. At least that's what I got from reading the instructions I dl
 

Aaron F

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Hey Volks, I thought you had to connect part of it to the stereo itself. At least that's what I got from reading the instructions I dl
I think in the non B&O system, you attach your wiring harness under the headunit in the front (if memory serves me, behind the air conditioning panel). This one plugs in at the B&O amplifier harness behind the seat.
 

colinl

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I think in the non B&O system, you attach your wiring harness under the headunit in the front (if memory serves me, behind the air conditioning panel). This one plugs in at the B&O amplifier harness behind the seat.
There's an A2B connector on the B&O amp itself, and I believe another in the ACIM up front. Depends on if you're intending to completely remove the B&O amp or just add-on.

Most high-budget builds I've seen just unplug center and rear pillar speakers, and have custom fiberglass pods in all four doors. Never say never, but I'm not planning to do anything on that scale. :)
 

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There's an A2B connector on the B&O amp itself, and I believe another in the ACIM up front. Depends on if you're intending to completely remove the B&O amp or just add-on.

Most high-budget builds I've seen just unplug center and rear pillar speakers, and have custom fiberglass pods in all four doors. Never say never, but I'm not planning to do anything on that scale. :)
From what I've read, this PAC amp pro module for the B&O system does not allow you to use the B&O amp. It's basically disabled
 
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Aquaman14

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I'm totally fine with that. I'll be installing aftermarket amps and component speakers, not sure about the rear yet.
 
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SpaceCowboy

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I'm totally fine with that. I'll be installing aftermarket amps and component speakers, not sure about the rear yet.
The rears have a filter on them. I have the same dilemma. Will you be using a DSP or Amp with DSP built in?
 

volksnuts

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Hey Volks, I thought you had to connect part of it to the stereo itself. At least that's what I got from reading the instructions I dl
The unit covers multiple B&O equipped vehicles…. I think for F150 you connect to the APIM, but for Maverick you just unplug everything from the amp and connect to the module at the rear
Hopefully by this weekend I’ll have it lowered up so I can confirm
 

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From what I've read, this PAC amp pro module for the B&O system does not allow you to use the B&O amp. It's basically disabled
Yup, this is correct for any of the A2B integration modules. The A2B plug isn't split off (it's basically a mini-USB plug), it's unplugged from the amp and goes into the new module instead.

For B&O systems, it's the best option if you're spending a decent amount on your system because it's a completely digital signal. No picking up pre-altered signals and having to massage them back to a flat signal.
 

colinl

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Yup, this is correct for any of the A2B integration modules. The A2B plug isn't split off (it's basically a mini-USB plug), it's unplugged from the amp and goes into the new module instead.

For B&O systems, it's the best option if you're spending a decent amount on your system because it's a completely digital signal. No picking up pre-altered signals and having to massage them back to a flat signal.
Unless it's disabled, there's a connector on the B&O amp also.

So I do think you can either replace or add-on.
 

macaroni_life

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Unless it's disabled, there's a connector on the B&O amp also.

So I do think you can either replace or add-on.
No, the A2B plug is the input signal, so the amp would have no input to amplify. There are two other connectors, but those also have to be unplugged from the amp and plugged into the A2B interface as well.

Both the PAC and NAV-TV instructions both say the B&O amp must be disconnected (angrily, in red and caps). You're correct about the center and rear speakers, though. Since they're powered by the head unit they'll still work unless you disconnect them, but with any of the A2B interfaces, the factory amp will be completely disabled.
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