It's not the only option. The PAC APH-FD02 works fine as a simple way to piggyback off the stock amp. Or on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 has more features and can be <$400.I am debating on the same unit. My local install shop says it is a must for the maverick install. You lose the factory amp with it, so you have to have something to power the front and the sub when you install it. It does have some cool features like being able to change the volume of your chimes and minimum volume setting via the control knob. I downloaded the manual to get more info on it here: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=2090
My local installer Said they won't use the axxess unit by Metra. They seem to think their equipment is not as solid as the PAC and have run into more issues.It's not the only option. The PAC APH-FD02 works fine as a simple way to piggyback off the stock amp. Or on paper I think the Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 has more features and can be <$400.
I think in the non B&O system, you attach your wiring harness under the headunit in the front (if memory serves me, behind the air conditioning panel). This one plugs in at the B&O amplifier harness behind the seat.Hey Volks, I thought you had to connect part of it to the stereo itself. At least that's what I got from reading the instructions I dl
There's an A2B connector on the B&O amp itself, and I believe another in the ACIM up front. Depends on if you're intending to completely remove the B&O amp or just add-on.I think in the non B&O system, you attach your wiring harness under the headunit in the front (if memory serves me, behind the air conditioning panel). This one plugs in at the B&O amplifier harness behind the seat.
From what I've read, this PAC amp pro module for the B&O system does not allow you to use the B&O amp. It's basically disabledThere's an A2B connector on the B&O amp itself, and I believe another in the ACIM up front. Depends on if you're intending to completely remove the B&O amp or just add-on.
Most high-budget builds I've seen just unplug center and rear pillar speakers, and have custom fiberglass pods in all four doors. Never say never, but I'm not planning to do anything on that scale.![]()
The rears have a filter on them. I have the same dilemma. Will you be using a DSP or Amp with DSP built in?I'm totally fine with that. I'll be installing aftermarket amps and component speakers, not sure about the rear yet.
The unit covers multiple B&O equipped vehicles…. I think for F150 you connect to the APIM, but for Maverick you just unplug everything from the amp and connect to the module at the rearHey Volks, I thought you had to connect part of it to the stereo itself. At least that's what I got from reading the instructions I dl
Yup, this is correct for any of the A2B integration modules. The A2B plug isn't split off (it's basically a mini-USB plug), it's unplugged from the amp and goes into the new module instead.From what I've read, this PAC amp pro module for the B&O system does not allow you to use the B&O amp. It's basically disabled
Unless it's disabled, there's a connector on the B&O amp also.Yup, this is correct for any of the A2B integration modules. The A2B plug isn't split off (it's basically a mini-USB plug), it's unplugged from the amp and goes into the new module instead.
For B&O systems, it's the best option if you're spending a decent amount on your system because it's a completely digital signal. No picking up pre-altered signals and having to massage them back to a flat signal.
No, the A2B plug is the input signal, so the amp would have no input to amplify. There are two other connectors, but those also have to be unplugged from the amp and plugged into the A2B interface as well.Unless it's disabled, there's a connector on the B&O amp also.
So I do think you can either replace or add-on.