4 channel amp and sub install questions

[firestang70]

This is my first stereo upgrade in a newer vehicle with Sync. I'm going to list out what I have and what I intend to use. I want plug and play and not to have to tap into any factory wiring.

I have a Audio Control LC-4.800 amplifier that I removed from my old truck. I want to get a plug and play harness to run to my amplifier. I want to run the front 2 channels (parallel) to my factory speakers and run 2 channels for a subwoofer. I'm going to build my own box and 8" subwoofer. I looked at 2 vendors LLJ and PlugandPlaykits.com and see the harness I think is required. Is it this simple? I see discussions on LOCs and confused if it is required?
Researching has brought confusing and differing answers. Thanks in advance.

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[Darnon]

A LOC shouldn't be necessary since the LC-4.800 supports speaker level inputs. I doubt you'd want to bridge the front channels going to your existing speakers unless you specifically want your audio mono for some reason.

 

[firestang70]

A LOC shouldn't be necessary since the LC-4.800 supports speaker level inputs. I doubt you'd want to bridge the front channels going to your existing speakers unless you specifically want your audio mono for some reason.

Sorry I meant parallel for the factory speakers.

 

[colinl]

That's a pretty good amp. I would probably email the guy at plugandplaykits and he can make a custom harness to feed the amp and then also re-use the stock speaker wiring.

It'll probably be around $200 but would save you a lot of time and hassle.

 

[Juanderosa]

Based on their offering, I would go with the P&PK guys. They seem to sell kits with Audio Control products integrated so they are probably familiar with the amp you are using and will likely have a kit that is even more plug and play.

 

[Slick-rides]

I'm currently installing new speakers, a 10" sub under the seat, 5 channel amp, and using one of plugnplaykits harnesses. His harnesses are a big time saver, but pricey.

With your amp you don't need a LOC, that stuff is built in already. If I were you, I would strongly suggest you at least replace the front speakers. The factory speakers are no match for your amp, and are garbage period. If you run your factory speakers in parallel, your amp outputs 200 watts rms per channel at 2 ohms. No way the factory speakers can handle that. What I would suggest with your amp is this... Leave the rear speakers hooked to the factory stereo, or don't use them at all. Install new front speakers. Have the stereo front speaker outputs feeding your amp's input. Amp channels 1&2 will go to the new front speakers. Amp channels 3&4 will be bridged to feed your sub. That's just my opinion.

 

[Juanderosa]

I would second this suggestion. New front speakers (there are some drop ins that have a how to here that) off the AC amp, rear speakers off the factory radio, and sub off the AC Amp.

I'm currently installing new speakers, a 10" sub under the seat, 5 channel amp, and using one of plugnplaykits harnesses. His harnesses are a big time saver, but pricey.

With your amp you don't need a LOC, that stuff is built in already. If I were you, I would strongly suggest you at least replace the front speakers. The factory speakers are no match for your amp, and are garbage period. If you run your factory speakers in parallel, your amp outputs 200 watts rms per channel at 2 ohms. No way the factory speakers can handle that. What I would suggest with your amp is this... Leave the rear speakers hooked to the factory stereo, or don't use them at all. Install new front speakers. Have the stereo front speaker outputs feeding your amp's input. Amp channels 1&2 will go to the new front speakers. Amp channels 3&4 will be bridged to feed your sub. That's just my opinion.

 

[firestang70]

I'm currently installing new speakers, a 10" sub under the seat, 5 channel amp, and using one of plugnplaykits harnesses. His harnesses are a big time saver, but pricey.

With your amp you don't need a LOC, that stuff is built in already. If I were you, I would strongly suggest you at least replace the front speakers. The factory speakers are no match for your amp, and are garbage period. If you run your factory speakers in parallel, your amp outputs 200 watts rms per channel at 2 ohms. No way the factory speakers can handle that. What I would suggest with your amp is this... Leave the rear speakers hooked to the factory stereo, or don't use them at all. Install new front speakers. Have the stereo front speaker outputs feeding your amp's input. Amp channels 1&2 will go to the new front speakers. Amp channels 3&4 will be bridged to feed your sub. That's just my opinion.

I’m doing morel Maximo speakers.

 

[blackb13]

This is my first stereo upgrade in a newer vehicle with Sync. I'm going to list out what I have and what I intend to use. I want plug and play and not to have to tap into any factory wiring.

I have a Audio Control LC-4.800 amplifier that I removed from my old truck. I want to get a plug and play harness to run to my amplifier. I want to run the front 2 channels (parallel) to my factory speakers and run 2 channels for a subwoofer. I'm going to build my own box and 8" subwoofer. I looked at 2 vendors LLJ and PlugandPlaykits.com and see the harness I think is required. Is it this simple? I see discussions on LOCs and confused if it is required?
Researching has brought confusing and differing answers. Thanks in advance.

You don't need some expensive prefabbed kit. Assuming you're not a B&O system...Buy the PAC audio LPHFD31 and a LOC, run some RCA's and speaker wire and be done.

 

[Juanderosa]

With some amps, might not need an LOC. I would try to get one that doesn't need an LOC (less boxes to hide, less places for noise to inject itself). I think the Audio Control amp they have doesn't need one, can take a signal straight off the speaker outputs.

You don't need some expensive prefabbed kit. Assuming you're not a B&O system...Buy the PAC audio LPHFD31 and a LOC, run some RCA's and speaker wire and be done.

 

[Lordran_Hollow]

With some amps, might not need an LOC. I would try to get one that doesn't need an LOC (less boxes to hide, less places for noise to inject itself). I think the Audio Control amp they have doesn't need one, can take a signal straight off the speaker outputs.

I've installed many amps at my old job, specifically AudioControl and yes, the LC4.800 definitely doesn't an LOC; it'd be a waste of money and a potential hit to sound quality.

Personally though I'm waiting to see if an aftermarket radio solution becomes available for our trucks before I install my four channel amp. I've found that Ford radios just don't play cleanly, so I'd rather wait until the aftermarket solution is available and do the whole thing in one go.

 

[firestang70]

Thanks for the LOC information, I did more researching and confirmed what you said. Thanks I wouldn’t hold my breath on the radio. Haven’t seen any options since the Sync systems have been on the market.

 

[Lordran_Hollow]

Thanks for the LOC information, I did more researching and confirmed what you said. Thanks I wouldn’t hold my breath on the radio. Haven’t seen any options since the Sync systems have been on the market.

As long as you don't have the B&O system, there is a chance. The problem with modern Fords is that there's so many data systems that tie into the radio, so you need a proper data interface. Maestro is who I'm really hoping comes through and creates a solution. You would need to get a Maestro-compatible radio, but with them the installation would be rock solid. The only major issue I foresee is that iDataLink hasn't really bothered offering coverage for vehicles with radios that are separate from the screen; and on our trucks the actual radio is behind the AC panel. So if Maestro DOES eventually offer a solution it would probably be the harness only, not actually providing a mounting solution for the radio, they do that currently for the newer Chargers/Challengers.

I do know for a fact that Metra is currently trying to develop an aftermarket solution for the Maverick, but I've never been impressed/satisfied with their data solutions when I've installed them in the past. But if push comes to shove I may get the Metra solution and use it to mount the radio and then get a Maestro and experiment and see if one of their firmware for another Ford works in the Maverick.

 

[Juanderosa]

So if Maestro make something, where would it go? Not sure there is a ton of depth behind the radio for anyting (or anywhere else to mount a radio solution). I'm not really my breath either.

FIgure if I really wanted to go crazy, get a signal processor/DSP or DSP/amp combo that allows for another input (like for a high end digital audio player) and just switch to that.

Juan

As long as you don't have the B&O system, there is a chance. The problem with modern Fords is that there's so many data systems that tie into the radio, so you need a proper data interface. Maestro is who I'm really hoping comes through and creates a solution. You would need to get a Maestro-compatible radio, but with them the installation would be rock solid. The only major issue I foresee is that iDataLink hasn't really bothered offering coverage for vehicles with radios that are separate from the screen; and on our trucks the actual radio is behind the AC panel. So if Maestro DOES eventually offer a solution it would probably be the harness only, not actually providing a mounting solution for the radio, they do that currently for the newer Chargers/Challengers.

I do know for a fact that Metra is currently trying to develop an aftermarket solution for the Maverick, but I've never been impressed/satisfied with their data solutions when I've installed them in the past. But if push comes to shove I may get the Metra solution and use it to mount the radio and then get a Maestro and experiment and see if one of their firmware for another Ford works in the Maverick.

 

[Lordran_Hollow]

So if Maestro make something, where would it go? Not sure there is a ton of depth behind the radio for anyting (or anywhere else to mount a radio solution). I'm not really my breath either.

FIgure if I really wanted to go crazy, get a signal processor/DSP or DSP/amp combo that allows for another input (like for a high end digital audio player) and just switch to that.

Juan

Well, I'm hoping there will be enough room to squeeze the radio and the Maestro module where the AC controls are, then run the umbilical up to the screen. I won't know for sure what the space situation will be like for our trucks, I haven't received mine yet (only just got built yesterday)

But basically I'd imagine the solution for our trucks will make use of one of Pioneer's modular radios, where the screen can be mounted in a separate location from the actual radio unit. Something like the DMH-C5500NEX.

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