Detailing Cost Worth It?

[M4shermandawg]

I local detailer has quoted me $1500 for Ceramic Coating and Rust Proofing package deal ($1300 and $500 respectively) and $499 for SIBL, $250 for front bumper PPF. For a 2023 Maverick XLT LUX FX4. Is it worth it? For a cheap vehicle like that maverick, even though mine came to 31k, would it be smarter to do DIY ceramic with turtle wax, and fluid film rust proofing? Don't have experience with either. Planning to keep for atleast 8 years. Thoughts?

Sponsored

 

[UberGadgetFreak]

I would shop around. Check out some local tint and truck shops. Many do wraps and ceramic coatings and will also do paint correction as part of the process. I always ask what steps are involved with the ceramic coating process, what brand/quality is used, and I look them up to find out about durability and how they get applied. One dealership near me does a spray&Dry coating and covers everything including the glass. One good douse of spray from a salted road or a sandstorm, and the view sucks. However, the tint shop I go do applies it by hand, its UV cured, and by comparison has to be redone and repaired less often with less headaches, but it costs a little more, and they don't get it on the glass. They use something else entirely there that doesn't scratch up easily.

 

[tkistre]

I just had SIBL done at local Auto Tech place. They use U.S. Linings brand. They did a great job. It looks very good. It was $475 plus tax.

 

[BuddyS]

I brought mine home, clay-barred it and then gave it 2 coats of turtle wax ceramic coating. I'll keep it clean, keep it away from door dingers as much as possible, and re-apply the Turtle Wax once or twice a year. I think that's a sane approach for a truck like this. I mean really -- it will get a few bumps and scuffs with use and age, and I don't see the value in spending $1500 out the gate. If I did, I'd be really upset with every little scratch and imperfection that ever lands on the thing. It's not a show car; no need to baby it like one. Just be diligent and prudent with the day to day stuff and enjoy it.

 

[BuddyS]

One addition to the above post -- I would do the bedliner. Well worth it.

 

[All4spl]

Generally speaking a ceramic coating is not going to protect against rock chips, PPF will. Ceramic coatings have come a LONG way in the past couple years, you would be surprised how easy they are to apply yourself. That being said, in reality you will have to decide if its worth it. Is the time/effort/money you will spend to do it yourself worth it? Verses paying a professional to do it, and the other added bonus is most shops will offer a warranty of some kind with the work they do. That is something you do not get doing it yourself.

 

[M4shermandawg]

I brought mine home, clay-barred it and then gave it 2 coats of turtle wax ceramic coating. I'll keep it clean, keep it away from door dingers as much as possible, and re-apply the Turtle Wax once or twice a year. I think that's a sane approach for a truck like this. I mean really -- it will get a few bumps and scuffs with use and age, and I don't see the value in spending $1500 out the gate. If I did, I'd be really upset with every little scratch and imperfection that ever lands on the thing. It's not a show car; no need to baby it like one. Just be diligent and prudent with the day to day stuff and enjoy it.

How difficult was the Turtle Wax and which kind did you use? It seems easy to DIY. What was the cost?

 

[BuddyS]

How difficult was the Turtle Wax and which kind did you use? It seems easy to DIY. What was the cost?

Super easy. A decent clay bar and detail spray shouldn't cost more than about $20-$30, and then the Turtle Wax was about $15, I think. Give the truck a good wash, then clay and and TW it one panel at a time. You can easily do it in a couple hours. It's a pretty small vehicle and lots of flat, easy surfaces -- the job goes quickly. The TW is literally a wipe on/let dry/buff off light residue procedure.

This was the stuff i used: https://www.turtlewax.com/products/hybrid-solutions-ceramic-wax-spray-coating-16-fl-oz

 

[M4shermandawg]

Super easy. A decent clay bar and detail spray shouldn't cost more than about $20-$30, and then the Turtle Wax was about $15, I think. Give the truck a good wash, then clay and and TW it one panel at a time. You can easily do it in a couple hours. It's a pretty small vehicle and lots of flat, easy surfaces -- the job goes quickly. The TW is literally a wipe on/let dry/buff off light residue procedure.

Thanks!

 

[CTYankee]

I local detailer has quoted me $1500 for Ceramic Coating and Rust Proofing package deal ($1300 and $500 respectively) and $499 for SIBL, $250 for front bumper PPF. For a 2023 Maverick XLT LUX FX4. Is it worth it? For a cheap vehicle like that maverick, even though mine came to 31k, would it be smarter to do DIY ceramic with turtle wax, and fluid film rust proofing? Don't have experience with either. Planning to keep for atleast 8 years. Thoughts?

The SIBL cost is within reason, at least for my area.

I had mine undercoated and rustproofed at Ziebart for $699.99. That price included spraying inside the doors and up in the rocker panels, not just the undercarriage. I get it checked and touched up once a year where the fluid film should really be redone twice a year to be completely effective.

Since the bumper is body color, the PPF may be overkill on top of the ceramic. I tried the DIY ceramic on my last truck and didn't like the way it turned out, although most people would not have noticed., I prefer to let the pro do it.

I also had mine ceramic-coated for around $450, but could have gone as high as $1200. It depends on what level of product and durability you want.

For me, in New England, the undercoating and rust-proofing is well worth it. The ceramic coating is going on roughly a year now and the Maverick still looks clean almost all the time.

 

[M4shermandawg]

The SIBL cost is within reason, at least for my area.

I had mine undercoated and rustproofed at Ziebart for $699.99. That price included spraying inside the doors and up in the rocker panels, not just the undercarriage. I get it checked and touched up once a year where the fluid film should really be redone twice a year to be completely effective.

Since the bumper is body color, the PPF may be overkill on top of the ceramic. I tried the DIY ceramic on my last truck and didn't like the way it turned out, although most people would not have noticed., I prefer to let the pro do it.

I also had mine ceramic-coated for around $450, but could have gone as high as $1200. It depends on what level of product and durability you want.

For me, in New England, the undercoating and rust-proofing is well worth it. The ceramic coating is going on roughly a year now and the Maverick still looks clean almost all the time.

What is the difference between rustproofing an undercoating? I was thinking DIY with fluidfilm every 6 months, shouldnt that take care of it?

 

[Tailender]

Super easy. A decent clay bar and detail spray shouldn't cost more than about $20-$30, and then the Turtle Wax was about $15, I think. Give the truck a good wash, then clay and and TW it one panel at a time. You can easily do it in a couple hours. It's a pretty small vehicle and lots of flat, easy surfaces -- the job goes quickly. The TW is literally a wipe on/let dry/buff off light residue procedure.

This was the stuff i used: https://www.turtlewax.com/products/hybrid-solutions-ceramic-wax-spray-coating-16-fl-oz

This is what I use and it works great. I put two coats on shortly after I got it in May and just put another coat on today because it was so nice out. Did use a clay mit to get the road grime off this time. Works good on the glass and all the plastic also.

 

[CTYankee]

What is the difference between rustproofing an undercoating? I was thinking DIY with fluidfilm every 6 months, shouldnt that take care of it?

Fluid film, like undercoating, gets sprayed on the underside of the vehicle and, if done right, up inside frame rails.

Ziebart rustproofing is in addition to undercoating and involves spraying inside the doors and the rocker panels. The coating is more durable but that doesn't matter as much if the fluid film is renewed every 6 months.

 

[EngineeredDetails]

Unless you religiously clean your vehicle then just stay away from ceramic coatings. They require frequent cleanings before the coating tends to "clog up" and you lose the hydrophobic properties. Ceramic coatings do offer insane glossiness and make it easier to clean the vehicle. Your "ceramic sprays" are nothing more than a spray wax with just enough SiO2 in it to label as a "ceramic" product. Purely marketing gimmick that many manufacturers have jumped on. There are some very DIY friendly true ceramic coatings on the market if you're interested. DPC Flashback and DPC T9 are pretty good and have minor filling capabilities so you don't really have to go full paint correction (compounding/polishing) if you don't want to. A brand new truck off the lot shouldn't need full paint correction as long as you haven't taken it through the scratch-o-matic tunnel wash yet. A good contact wash followed by chemical decon (iron remover) and mechanical decon (clay bar) should be sufficient before applying a cermaic coating. Another good option is a good spray sealant. Your best bang for the buck is Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine. You can even follow it up with Turtle Wax Ice Spray Wax for another sacrificial layer of protection.

 

[M4shermandawg]

Unless you religiously clean your vehicle then just stay away from ceramic coatings. They require frequent cleanings before the coating tends to "clog up" and you lose the hydrophobic properties. Ceramic coatings do offer insane glossiness and make it easier to clean the vehicle. Your "ceramic sprays" are nothing more than a spray wax with just enough SiO2 in it to label as a "ceramic" product. Purely marketing gimmick that many manufacturers have jumped on. There are some very DIY friendly true ceramic coatings on the market if you're interested. DPC Flashback and DPC T9 are pretty good and have minor filling capabilities so you don't really have to go full paint correction (compounding/polishing) if you don't want to. A brand new truck off the lot shouldn't need full paint correction as long as you haven't taken it through the scratch-o-matic tunnel wash yet. A good contact wash followed by chemical decon (iron remover) and mechanical decon (clay bar) should be sufficient before applying a cermaic coating. Another good option is a good spray sealant. Your best bang for the buck is Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine. You can even follow it up with Turtle Wax Ice Spray Wax for another sacrificial layer of protection.

Thanks. Thats what I was planning doing, just using the Turtle Wax. Would PPF have any issues with the turtle wax? Which would go on first?

Sponsored