Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation

[DrDan]

My set-up is new aftermarket speakers including a subwoofer w/amplifier (Focals). My installer plans to use an LC2iPro....so from what you're saying....they'll connect to the FoMoCo head unit's front channels (which I presume are full spectrum 20-20K Hz) and not use the rear channel outputs which truncate the frequencies below 80Hz?
On occasion, I enjoy classical music with orchestra and pipe organ.....and I'd like the signal being sent to my powered subwoofer to extend down to 20 Hz if at all possible. If the head unit is cutting off all frequencies below 80Hz....it kind of defeats the benefit of having a powered sub-woofer.
Dan

Finally got my speaker upgrade installed this week. Original speakers replaced with Focals (tweeters up front, 6" in the front doors, and 4" in the rear along with a 10" Kicker Sub with 300W amp under the back seat. The LC2iPro is behind the dash where I can't see it.
The difference between this and the original speakers is ASTOUNDING. Very happy with it.
Dan

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[mlshirey]

I’ll start this out by saying I’m a cheapskate. If I can pay a fraction of the price for something that’s almost as good but not crap, I’m about it.
Like the vast majority of “us” (maverick owners and enthusiasts), I felt the sound system just wasn’t good and HAD to upgrade (the stock speakers are pretty much junk). I’ve been following along with the other threads to get ideas of what people are doing to upgrade. My last vehicle was a ‘16 Toyota Camry SE and if I could get the Maverick to sound like that stock system for cheap, I’ll be happy. I went to a local shop that I’ve heard good things about, told em what I wanted to do and the dude told me the owner would spec it out and call me tomorrow…. A few weeks later, no call back and haven’t been able to get them to answer the phone and I don’t have time to go back there.

With that, they’ve lost their opportunity and I’m doing it myself. The plan is to upgrade all the factory speakers and add low end all for <$500. After digging and researching for almost 2 months I finally ordered components and a “sub” that will arrive mid-week.

After ruling a bunch of stuff out, below is basically the list of what was in consideration.
For the components, because of what I’m trying to budget, I narrowed it down to the following component sets:
Memphis Audio SRX60C
Hertz Uno K170/k165
Morel maximo 6

and ended up going with these because of the plug and play
Powerbass OE65C-FD
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE65CFD/PowerBass-OE65C-FD.html - I couldn’t find them any cheaper than crutchfield and went with them for the free wiring harness which I may utilize on the rear speakers (had to put in a 2016 escape as the vehicle to register “fit” to get the free harness) - ***WRONG - can’t use on rear - used 72-5600 (72-5601 works as well, but pay close attention to positive/negative)

For the low end, I ended up deciding an under the seat set up would be best for what I’m wanting (probably mounting behind the seats, but we’ll see). The following were in consideration and the links are the cheapest I could find that particular unit for.

Jbl basspro SL and SL2 (link is for cheapest discontinued SL model)

KICKER HIDEAWAY HS8 and 46HS10 - link is for a refurb for >$190 for the 8”,

mb quart - RW-108A

Pioneer - TS-WX130DA Compact Active subwoofer

MTX terminator - TN8MS Terminator

Kenwood - looked at the KSC-pw8 and the KSC-SW11 (link for sw11)

Cerwin Vega VPAS10 - I love the size of this one for being a 10”, but they seem to be junk, def not the same cerwin Vega from the late 90’s (no link, cuz I wouldn’t buy this)

Rockford Fosgate PS-8

Planet Audio - P10AW

Alpine PWE-S8


At the end of the day I ended up going with the Kicker HS8, I didn’t buy the refurb I linked above, I found it NEW for $239.
For the hideaway, I’ll be following what others have done and tap the wiring harness using high level inputs so I don’t have to worry about the remote wire.
The powerbass components and kicker hideaway should be installed by the weekend.

Will be using this thread as a placeholder to update with pictures, lessons, review, etc…. I also ordered some Memphis 4x6 coaxials to try to retro/custom fit to the 4” speaker spots in the the C pillar speakers, but they’re back ordered meaning that will come later.
This will be my first car stereo system install in like 20 years after being heavy into the lowrider/car audio custom scene in the late 90s, so should be fun.

Figured I’d share what I’m doing to help those with research etc when trying to have the stock system sound decent.

**update on the 4x6s, they had no clue when the back order would be filled on the Memphis, so I cancelled. Ending up order these HERTZ Dieci DCX460 the cheapest I could find them prior was $149, and got them for $110 from Australia

total costs:
Front components - $129
Hideaway - $239
Rear speakers - $110
Which brings me to $478 + wiring, etc…

**Would reduce to $428 if I use the 4” and scrap the 4x6 for now per 1/26 update*

1/26 UPDATE**
Still waiting for the 4x6s and in the meantime I found a smoking deal on the 4” in the same product line
HERTZ Dieci DCX 100.3 for $60 on Amazon (again from overseas - UK) and those will be here tomorrow so planning on doing the rear install this weekend

The Hideaway is doing some weird shit at higher volumes so while I have the rear panels off etc, I’m going to re run my power cabling as well as a 9 way speed wire for future upgrades - I’ve also ordered a do it yourself t harness from LLJ customs and want to have it ready to go so I can add more and play around with different configs - a simple factory upgrade has turned into more of a hobby)

I have an old kicker OFC amp install kit but we moved a few months ago and couldn’t find it so I used the harness wiring that came with the hideaway to get it in and to test/play around. I’ll be yanking it and running 4 gauge wire for power and ground to distribution blocks and will be playing around with a loc/controller to wipe out the sound processing from the factory unit. I’ll also be playing around with building some custom enclosures for under the seats for 8” subs. the hideaway is everything I need if I can get the higher volume issues worked out, but I’m thinking I “want” a little more (and thought about the 10” hideaway, but the more I use one of these all in one powered subs, the more I think I want to separate that - I also don’t have the extra fractions of an inch thickness that the 10” has over the 8”). If I scrap the hideaway in favor of passive 8”s under the rear seats, I’ll utilize my existing mounting board for the hideaway for an the sub amp and likely an LC2i (or different audio control unit) and amp the fronts (might go with hertz components if I do all that as well).

I’ll keep updating with pics throughout the thread, and once I’m done and happy with the final product I’ll update the main post with detailed pics of the whole process.

Focals getting installed Friday. Total: $850.00. After watching installs on Youtube I put it in the Pro's hands! Stock speakers are of course atrocious! My Tech told me for THIS model he recommends Focal speakers. Reviews are exellent. I'll know if I got my expectations too high or will be satified with some top-shelf stuff. Certainly an upgrade and a very-much need one at that! Excited!

 

[mlshirey]

Focals getting installed Friday. Total: $850.00. After watching installs on Youtube I put it in the Pro's hands! Stock speakers are of course atrocious! My Tech told me for THIS model he recommends Focal speakers. Reviews are exellent. I'll know if I got my expectations too high or will be satified with some top-shelf stuff. Certainly an upgrade and a very-much need one at that! Excited!

I have the XL all stripped down. Ordering 2 next month. Can't decide on Hybrid or another Eco 2.0. I am talking to my Dealer now and he promises me MSRP on the 23'. They have been honest in the past. Even gave me 2 free oil changes and an extra year on my warantee! Who does that?! I'll keep one and sell the one that comes LAST!

 

[mlshirey]

I have the XL all stripped down. Ordering 2 next month. Can't decide on Hybrid or another Eco 2.0. I am talking to my Dealer now and he promises me MSRP on the 23'. They have been honest in the past. Even gave me 2 free oil changes and an extra year on my warantee! Who does that?! I'll keep one and sell the one that comes LAST!

Autonation Panama City Florida No deposit on 23' orders. MSRP guaranteed. He will let me order and when FMC comes out with the new packages I can adjust my order per option preferences. I can't see this truck changing much since the 22's are bleeding into the 23's. I'll prolly see my next month's order in 24'. I'm being realistic. Just happy I did receive mine after 6 nervous months! Happy Trails fellow travellers. Ask for GOD's HELP!

 

[CaptnMckrakn]

Series of updates here:
So the issues I started experiencing with the hideaway is even with the gains turned all the way down, anything over 18 volume it would go into protect mode, but i realized if I faded over to the left side, I could turn it up as loud as I wanted and it was fine, it the 3rd tick back to the right it would cut…. Tried all sorts of things including re running wires, power, ground, all of it…. Same thing…

Seeing others had noticed static in the hideaway on the right channel when fading over, this made me decide I needed some sort of processing like the lc2i pro and if o was going to do that, I might as well do the same for the factory signal to the rest of the speaker and ordered kit 16 from PLUGNPLAYKITS kits **i should have ordered 17, which is 17ft instead of 6…. With 6 I’m now having to install behind the glovebox, but it’s fine**

Got it yesterday and installed last night…. Was once again running into weird sh*t and I was ready to scrap the whole thing…. I ran the auto tune, got the happy song, turned it off but after that if I opened my door the key would power on and was emitting loud white noise from all 4 speakers…. When I turned the radio on volume 6/7 sounded maxed out…. I was so confused…. Researched, tested, couldn’t figure it out…

Slept on it, and thought “if it’s that loud the gains must be registering at max even though they’re turned all the way down…. And that would cause that sound even without the head unit”…. So I turned the gains up slightly this morning and boom, no sound and the volume is back to normal…. Re-did the mic tuning, got the happy song and we’re rolling…. I’m kind of impressed with these powerbass speakers and how they’re handling the power…. Was thinking I’d replace them with adding the amp but they sound pretty darn good…. Will finish converting the hideaway lead wires to rca tonight and get those plugged into the lc2i pro…

Definitely recommend PLUGNPLAY Kits, the owner is a good dude that called me personally to address the fit the maverick that I mentioned in notes and got it out to me super quick

I may wait for next update when I finish my custom boxes for the kicker compc DVC 8”s and hook the kicker 400.1 mono block to them and add all pictures and probably a video of the plugnplaykits install

Found this thread. Plugnplay is awesome! Thank you!

 

[Marlon641]

Finally got my speaker upgrade installed this week. Original speakers replaced with Focals (tweeters up front, 6" in the front doors, and 4" in the rear along with a 10" Kicker Sub with 300W amp under the back seat. The LC2iPro is behind the dash where I can't see it.
The difference between this and the original speakers is ASTOUNDING. Very happy with it.
Dan

Awesome! I’m considering the same. Couple questions if you could please:
-what specific focals did you use for front and back?
-what specific sub and amp did you get?
-what did you end up doing as far as front and rear channel outputs?

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

I went with the power bass speakers because they are OEM drop-ins in the front including the tweeters and also their rear speakers. For some reason Crutchfield says they don't fit but then the reviews counterdicted so I bought them and they fit perfectly. The front 6.5 I had to trim about a nickel width of the foam off the new speaker that was all I had to do. I built a custom box and an amp for the rear I tapped into my rear speakers and I used a recoil line out converter.( pic with amp has originally converter that i changed out to recoil) Some people say they don't get bass in the back but I have full base you have to make sure your stereo is in all occupancy mode and not drivers which cuts base to the rear. If you have any questions that I can help with feel free to message me. If you want to tap into your remote you can either use the number 3 fuse and get a fuse tap or the line out converter has autosense on and off from the speaker inputs.

 

[DrDan]

Awesome! I’m considering the same. Couple questions if you could please:
-what specific focals did you use for front and back?
-what specific sub and amp did you get?
-what did you end up doing as far as front and rear channel outputs?

Not sure of the specific model numbers of the components used......I paid a professional installer to do the job and they were fabulous. Electronics Depot near where I live did the install.....
I told them my tastes vary from classical Brass/Pipe organ (need a good sub for that!) to rock. He recommended the Focals and the Kicker 10" sub w/300W amp and I have been VERY pleased!

Cost me about $1800, BTW....but well worth it.

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

I did it all myself I have 450-475 total including all miscellaneous stuff like the covering for the Box screws Etc. For the sound difference and trying to keep everything under 500 I am 1000% happy.

 

[ejouie]

I see a lot of people recommend Focal for the fidelity.

I see a lot of people go with PowerBass for their drop in easy install.

Why is it then that I haven't seen anyone go with this?

Focal Inside IS FORD 165

Is it a terrible value, or just unknown?

 

[jewc75]

I see a lot of people recommend Focal for the fidelity.

I see a lot of people go with PowerBass for their drop in easy install.

Why is it then that I haven't seen anyone go with this?

Focal Inside IS FORD 165

Is it a terrible value, or just unknown?

The specs on it are very close to the Auditor line. The cones are a different material. I didnt see them or i probably would have tried them.

 

[BoxxerDad@50]

I see a lot of people recommend Focal for the fidelity.

I see a lot of people go with PowerBass for their drop in easy install.

Why is it then that I haven't seen anyone go with this?

Focal Inside IS FORD 165

Is it a terrible value, or just unknown?

cost maybe?

 

[ejouie]

cost maybe?

I thought Focal was only higher end and that these were within 10% cost of what others were putting in.

I found out that isn't the case.

 

[daemonic3]

I got a lot of information from this thread and my goal was to just give my daughter's truck a boost to the stock unit by adding a powered sub. I upgraded her head unit, all 4 speakers, and added a 6.5" bazooka tube to her old ranger so that was the bar I wanted to get back to.

There was no place for the bazooka in the Mav so I went with an Alpine PWE-S8, which is compact for underseat placement. I wanted everything clean and hidden came up with a mounting strategy behind the back seat (pics attached, I just have to shorten my power+ground leads as final cleanup). The mounting board is custom onto the 4 factory amp bolt holes plus one more mount to the little window motor bracket (empty in our XLT). For signal it uses the front speaker leads and uses signal detect, not remote.

Anyway, fast forward to it is a "decent" upgrade. BUT disappointing compared to her old truck! I am shocked that bass below about 50Hz seems to be barely detectable, but play the same song or sine sweep in the old truck and the bazooka is clear down there. I realize the bazooka has a lot more volume/air but I thought the larger woofer in the alpine would make up for it.

That brings me to my question: Has anyone found the forscan codes that may affect filters placed on the factory installs? I tapped the front thinking they were unfiltered, but now I have a theory that the huge difference between trucks is the old truck used sub pre-outs (unfiltered) and the Mav is using speaker signal that is possibly filtered. I can't test my theory unless someone has found those codes.

 

[Rvnrock]

I’ll start this out by saying I’m a cheapskate. If I can pay a fraction of the price for something that’s almost as good but not crap, I’m about it.
Like the vast majority of “us” (maverick owners and enthusiasts), I felt the sound system just wasn’t good and HAD to upgrade (the stock speakers are pretty much junk). I’ve been following along with the other threads to get ideas of what people are doing to upgrade. My last vehicle was a ‘16 Toyota Camry SE and if I could get the Maverick to sound like that stock system for cheap, I’ll be happy. I went to a local shop that I’ve heard good things about, told em what I wanted to do and the dude told me the owner would spec it out and call me tomorrow…. A few weeks later, no call back and haven’t been able to get them to answer the phone and I don’t have time to go back there.

With that, they’ve lost their opportunity and I’m doing it myself. The plan is to upgrade all the factory speakers and add low end all for <$500. After digging and researching for almost 2 months I finally ordered components and a “sub” that will arrive mid-week.

After ruling a bunch of stuff out, below is basically the list of what was in consideration.
For the components, because of what I’m trying to budget, I narrowed it down to the following component sets:
Memphis Audio SRX60C
Hertz Uno K170/k165
Morel maximo 6

and ended up going with these because of the plug and play
Powerbass OE65C-FD
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE65CFD/PowerBass-OE65C-FD.html - I couldn’t find them any cheaper than crutchfield and went with them for the free wiring harness which I may utilize on the rear speakers (had to put in a 2016 escape as the vehicle to register “fit” to get the free harness) - ***WRONG - can’t use on rear - used 72-5600 (72-5601 works as well, but pay close attention to positive/negative)

For the low end, I ended up deciding an under the seat set up would be best for what I’m wanting (probably mounting behind the seats, but we’ll see). The following were in consideration and the links are the cheapest I could find that particular unit for.

Jbl basspro SL and SL2 (link is for cheapest discontinued SL model)

KICKER HIDEAWAY HS8 and 46HS10 - link is for a refurb for >$190 for the 8”,

mb quart - RW-108A

Pioneer - TS-WX130DA Compact Active subwoofer

MTX terminator - TN8MS Terminator

Kenwood - looked at the KSC-pw8 and the KSC-SW11 (link for sw11)

Cerwin Vega VPAS10 - I love the size of this one for being a 10”, but they seem to be junk, def not the same cerwin Vega from the late 90’s (no link, cuz I wouldn’t buy this)

Rockford Fosgate PS-8

Planet Audio - P10AW

Alpine PWE-S8


At the end of the day I ended up going with the Kicker HS8, I didn’t buy the refurb I linked above, I found it NEW for $239.
For the hideaway, I’ll be following what others have done and tap the wiring harness using high level inputs so I don’t have to worry about the remote wire.
The powerbass components and kicker hideaway should be installed by the weekend.

Will be using this thread as a placeholder to update with pictures, lessons, review, etc…. I also ordered some Memphis 4x6 coaxials to try to retro/custom fit to the 4” speaker spots in the the C pillar speakers, but they’re back ordered meaning that will come later.
This will be my first car stereo system install in like 20 years after being heavy into the lowrider/car audio custom scene in the late 90s, so should be fun.

Figured I’d share what I’m doing to help those with research etc when trying to have the stock system sound decent.

**update on the 4x6s, they had no clue when the back order would be filled on the Memphis, so I cancelled. Ending up order these HERTZ Dieci DCX460 the cheapest I could find them prior was $149, and got them for $110 from Australia

total costs:
Front components - $129
Hideaway - $239
Rear speakers - $110
Which brings me to $478 + wiring, etc…

**Would reduce to $428 if I use the 4” and scrap the 4x6 for now per 1/26 update*

1/26 UPDATE**
Still waiting for the 4x6s and in the meantime I found a smoking deal on the 4” in the same product line
HERTZ Dieci DCX 100.3 for $60 on Amazon (again from overseas - UK) and those will be here tomorrow so planning on doing the rear install this weekend

The Hideaway is doing some weird shit at higher volumes so while I have the rear panels off etc, I’m going to re run my power cabling as well as a 9 way speed wire for future upgrades - I’ve also ordered a do it yourself t harness from LLJ customs and want to have it ready to go so I can add more and play around with different configs - a simple factory upgrade has turned into more of a hobby)

I have an old kicker OFC amp install kit but we moved a few months ago and couldn’t find it so I used the harness wiring that came with the hideaway to get it in and to test/play around. I’ll be yanking it and running 4 gauge wire for power and ground to distribution blocks and will be playing around with a loc/controller to wipe out the sound processing from the factory unit. I’ll also be playing around with building some custom enclosures for under the seats for 8” subs. the hideaway is everything I need if I can get the higher volume issues worked out, but I’m thinking I “want” a little more (and thought about the 10” hideaway, but the more I use one of these all in one powered subs, the more I think I want to separate that - I also don’t have the extra fractions of an inch thickness that the 10” has over the 8”). If I scrap the hideaway in favor of passive 8”s under the rear seats, I’ll utilize my existing mounting board for the hideaway for an the sub amp and likely an LC2i (or different audio control unit) and amp the fronts (might go with hertz components if I do all that as well).

I’ll keep updating with pics throughout the thread, and once I’m done and happy with the final product I’ll update the main post with detailed pics of the whole process.

The

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