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chips46

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Doesn't adding the cubby hole sorage bin accomplish the same thing?
The cubby is above a cover much like this one only plastic. So no you cannot accomplish stopping mud, water and dirt by just adding a cubby. Still need a cover above the muffler then you could add a cubby on the left side.
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mcc63303

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The cubby is above a cover much like this one only plastic. So no you cannot accomplish stopping mud, water and dirt by just adding a cubby. Still need a cover above the muffler then you could add a cubby on the left side.
On the passenger side the cubby does fill the void. Can anyone with a cubby on the drivers side say for sure if the void is filled like on the passenger side?
 

Mymaverick2021

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The cubby is above a cover much like this one only plastic. So no you cannot accomplish stopping mud, water and dirt by just adding a cubby. Still need a cover above the muffler then you could add a cubby on the left side.
Just a thought doesn't blocking the airflow that helps keep the mufflers heat from escaping create a possible problem 🤔
 
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mcc63303

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Just a thought doesn't blocking the airflow that helps keep the mufflers heat from escaping create a possible problem 🤔
There is several inches of clearance above the resonator. Hybrid has a round resonator, ICE have oval with less clearance, about 3 inches above round, about 1.5 inch above oval.
 
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On the passenger side the cubby does fill the void. Can anyone with a cubby on the drivers side say for sure if the void is filled like on the passenger side?
You need to get under the vehicle. You will find a cover below the cubby on the right side. The cubby DOES NOT fill the void! You will need to have a cover on the Left side also. I have not seen a Maverick with the Left side cubby, but I can't see anyway that it would not have cover of some sort to protect it from the dirt and mud and heat that would be in this area. At this point the shield in this thread would protect the cubby, wires, electrical connections/outlet , switch, and help to stop rust in the rear left fender. There have been comments that plastic would work but it would most likely melt on to the muffler. Sure there is a couple of inches clearance, which helps when truck is moving, but after a extended trip and stop and go traffic the plastic would most likely get hot and melt, without a heat shield like you will find in other areas of the exaust pipe. I have measured only 1 and 1/2" between what your are calling a muffler and the heat shield I built like the one in the thread.
 
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TKranbuhl

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Thanks for posting. I'm going to try a heavier gauge aluminum.
 

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Just finished making and installing shield. There are some minor differences. I have 2l FX 4K Lariat Lux. The mufflers are not the same. Mine is oval shaped not tubular like the one pictured in this thread. Probably just made it harder to do. Had to cut off the back leg, was able to fix bracket by wires for support. Was only able to put one other screw on inner frame side, not 2 like in thread. My muffler was in the way. I also put silver color duct tape on sharp edges. I also measured clearance between muffler and cover, its only one and one half inch.

One other benefit, my cat can no longer get in this area and play. She was able to go over the fender well clear to front of bed along this side.

Taking care of 2 problems is a win, win situation. I am very thank full that we have fellow owners that have the ability to design and share DIY things.

THANK YOU mcc63303
 
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Just finished making and installing shield. There are some minor differences. I have 2l FX 4K Lariat Lux. The mufflers are not the same. Mine is oval shaped not tubular like the one pictured in this thread. Probably just made it harder to do. Had to cut off the back leg, was able to fix bracket by wires for support. Was only able to put one other screw on inner frame side, not 2 like in thread. My muffler was in the way. I also put silver color duct tape on sharp edges. I also measured clearance between muffler and cover, its only one and one half inch.

One other benefit, my cat can no longer get in this area and play. She was able to go over the fender well clear to front of bed along this side.

Taking care of 2 problems is a win, win situation. I am very thank full that we have fellow owners that have the ability to design and share DIY things.

THANK YOU mcc63303
Thanks for the additional information about the difference between Hybrid (like mine) opposed to gas Mavericks. Good to know you only have about 1.5 inch clearance between the oval rear muffler (in my day it was called a resonator, the actual muffler is about mid body) and the round as Hybrid have about 3 inch clearance. It would be interesting to see just how hot the "resonator" actually gets at the rear of the exhaust. The bracket at the back of the shield is a good idea for those not wanting the leg. At first I did undo the rear rubber exhaust hanger to move the resonator over some but found I had room later with it connected.

Question: How did you attach to the inner fender well? What type of material did you use for the shield? Did you make a cardboard templet first?

FYI: I did just install the FoMoCo rear mud flaps, the flaps will help keep the outside of the fender clean from debris but does nothing for inside the rear fender for those wondering.

Likewise, thank you for sharing your tips.

Cats will find the craziest places to climb, had a cat that would take the house floor heater vent deflectors/covers off and go for a trip though the duct work. Go in one room, we had to remove the cover to get her out in another room. Game of hide and seek I guess.
 
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Thanks for the additional information about the difference between Hybrid (like mine) opposed to gas Mavericks. Good to know you only have about 1.5 inch clearance between the oval rear muffler (in my day it was called a resonator, the actual muffler is about mid body) and the round as Hybrid have about 3 inch clearance. It would be interesting to see just how hot the "resonator" actually gets at the rear of the exhaust. The bracket at the back of the shield is a good idea for those not wanting the leg. At first I did undo the rear rubber exhaust hanger to move the resonator over some but found I had room later with it connected.

Question: How did you attach to the inner fender well? What type of material did you use for the shield? Did you make a cardboard templet first?

FYI: I did just install the FoMoCo rear mud flaps, the flaps will help keep the outside of the fender clean from debris but does nothing for inside the rear fender for those wondering.

Likewise, thank you for sharing your tips.

Cats will find the craziest places to climb, had a cat that would take the house floor heater vent deflectors/covers off and go for a trip though the duct work. Go in one room, we had to remove the cover to get her out in another room. Game of hide and seek I guess.
I did make a cardboard templet using your measurements, with the exception of the leg. This is were I used the L shape bracket. There is a pillar for the bed that I attached the bracket to for the rear left, instead of the leg. Bracket is fastened with a 1/4" bolt, on truck and a large sheet metal screw on cover. Going forward toward the rear wheel from there I put a 10mm nut on the screw that you had a clip on. Straight across from this nut I drilled and tapped a 1/4" screw into the cover and frame. Continuing along inner frame to the large bolt. Fastened in 4 locations, seems stable. I used a piece of sheet metal from some furnace duct I had. I used metal tape around the edges, I hope will stop edges from rusting. I feel the reflective properties of the metal will help distribute heat. I plan to keep monitoring this, and will post if any problem. One of the first things I did was to put mud flaps on. Have been thinking along same thoughts for a cover. That is why I know that there is a cover on R side below the cubby. I took the R side cubby out thinking the same as others, to use a cubby to cover the L side as well. Found the cover below the cubby.
With only a 1 and 1/2" clearance between the resonator and cover I knew I could not make a plastic cover. Probably melt onto the resonator and smoke and stink, maybe cause a fire. It took almost a day to do, but I'm 70 YO and not able to work like I used to.
 
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mcc63303

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I did make a cardboard templet using your measurements, with the exception of the leg. This is were I used the L shape bracket. There is a pillar for the bed that I attached the bracket to for the rear left, instead of the leg. Bracket is fastened with a 1/4" bolt, on truck and a large sheet metal screw on cover. Going forward toward the rear wheel from there I put a 10mm nut on the screw that you had a clip on. Straight across from this nut I drilled and tapped a 1/4" screw into the cover and frame. Continuing along inner frame to the large bolt. Fastened in 4 locations, seems stable. I used a piece of sheet metal from some furnace duct I had. I used metal tape around the edges, I hope will stop edges from rusting. I feel the reflective properties of the metal will help distribute heat. I plan to keep monitoring this, and will post if any problem. One of the first things I did was to put mud flaps on. Have been thinking along same thoughts for a cover. That is why I know that there is a cover on R side below the cubby. I took the R side cubby out thinking the same as others, to use a cubby to cover the L side as well. Found the cover below the cubby.
With only a 1 and 1/2" clearance between the resonator and cover I knew I could not make a plastic cover. Probably melt onto the resonator and smoke and stink, maybe cause a fire. It took almost a day to do, but I'm 70 YO and not able to work like I used to.
Thanks again, Great Job. Others can use all the information we all provide to make their own shields. I'll be 70 in September, slower also but persistent.
 

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If you went to a sheet metal shop or industial insulation (furnace ductwork) and got them to cut this out of thicker galvanized tin, they could get them to seam the edges and roll a bead down the middle to stiffen it up….black Plastidip would last for a while as a a coating
 
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If you went to a sheet metal shop or industial insulation (furnace ductwork) and got them to cut this out of thicker galvanized tin, they could get them to seam the edges and roll a bead down the middle to stiffen it up….black Plastidip would last for a while as a a coating
I'm sure there are numerous ways to improve on what I've done.
 

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I ordered the storage cubby for that side to complement the other. I think that may help fill some of that space since it goes down so deep?
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