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Maverickman74

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OP make sure you pull that off and put several coats of paint on all your cut edges. Galvanized is a coating not and alloy. It will rust. I would have used aluminum sheet possibly diamond plate although that is harder bend the tabs where the diamonds are. HD and Lowes both sell 24x24 sheets of aluminum in sufficient thickness to be strong.
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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OP make sure you pull that off and put several coats of paint on all your cut edges. Galvanized is a coating not and alloy. It will rust. I would have used aluminum sheet possibly diamond plate although that is harder bend the tabs where the diamonds are. HD and Lowes both sell 24x24 sheets of aluminum in sufficient thickness to be strong.
Aluminum is certainly an option, if thick enough, will check it out. Maui huh... been there numerous times for vacation.... great place.
 

Maverickman74

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Aluminum is certainly an option, if thick enough, will check it out. Maui huh... been there numerous times for vacation.... great place.
Come out to Twin Falls and I will chop you a coconut🤙
 

johnpbrewer

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I've made a filler panel to prevent water/snow/dirt and what ever from going up behind the left rear tail light assembly. I used Galvanized Steel after making a prototype out of cardboard. Had to make sure to give more than enough clearance of wiring so as to not rub. Thought I could use the one bolt at lower inner fender side but the nut (10mm) is not a nut that can be removed, believe the nut is part of the bracket and the bolt comes through from the outside. Now I have a clip to attach the panel to the bolt temporally, will try something different later. Used the one large bolt (18mm) in the frame at rear of the panel to hold the rear, drilled new holes to secure more areas. I may just cut off the rear leg of the panel (but it does give extra support), don't think it's really needed except for extra support. Be careful if you work with any sheet metal, cuts skin very easy! OH, no rattles or squeaks heard...yet!

I've added more information later in thread.

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Doesn't adding the cubby hole sorage bin accomplish the same thing?
 

nickmav

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Nick, I wish I was in a position to make these for others but I'm in the middle of a Major restoration of my 1957 Chevy. I've spent the winter stripping the car down to bare metal again (1st time was 48 years ago) and after taking every piece off I'll finish painting it this week and start the process of assembling it which will take many months.

Everyone, get yourself some galvanized sheet metal (I bought the 2ft x 10ft roll from Menards for around $28) and after making and fitting a cardboard template use tin snips to cut it out. A drill and some screws and you're off and running.

One thing I've not mentioned before is after you make the panel you flip it upside down for installation.

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beautiful!
 

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Doesn't adding the cubby hole sorage bin accomplish the same thing?

Hopefully the cubby will be standard next year if nothing more than because of the space without it.
 

Mymaverick2021

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No, my Maverick is a Hybrid XL.
I was thinking I should specify that incase it was only on Hybrids... I would think all Mavericks have the same issue however.
I'm thinking if you added the Inverters to your tuck that they install it in a cubby like is on the right side, Someone posted that same issue with the sno,mud and water he bought a cubby from Ford and installed it and seems to solve that problem. Not everyone is as talented as you on fabricating a panel like you did so there are options!!!
 
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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I'm thinking if you added the Inverters to your tuck that they install it in a cubby like is on the right side, Someone posted that same issue with the sno,mud and water he bought a cubby from Ford and installed it and seems to solve that problem. Not everyone is as talented as you on fabricating a panel like you did so there are options!!!
Absolutely there are options. Mine is just one possible. Does anyone know the cost of the cubby, what is involved in installing one and does it completely cover the area as the passenger side does?
 

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Lariat without Lux has cubby on both sides. Does the driver’s side cubby on the non-lux Lariat have some kind of heat shield?
 
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Mymaverick2021

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Absolutely there are options. Mine is just one possible. Does anyone know the cost of the cubby, what is involved in installing one and does it completely cover the area as the passenger side does?
I just Googled it and you can order one from Ford for around $40.00 part#AZ6Z-60286A72-A it will fit the left side compartment by simply removing the existing cover, And just like that solves the problem and + you get added storage in the bed😉
 

7Litre

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I just Googled it and you can order one from Ford for around $40.00 part#AZ6Z-60286A72-A it will fit the left side compartment by simply removing the existing cover, And just like that solves the problem and + you get added storage in the bed😉
If I were to get an aftermarket SIBL, when my truck finally gets built, would I want to have the cubby installed first? I love the engineering involved with the fabricated shield but the cubby would be the easy fix it seems.
 

2022EOW

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I feel you're over thinking this. With at the rear of the exhaust I don't feel heat will be an issue. It would be very difficult to get any tile to adhere and stay adhered to the somewhat flimsy metal and really no need for anything stronger. The galvanized steel should wash off as easy as anything.
Agree, it’s not re-entering earth orbit.
 

JRPhawk

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Genius! Great work and thank you for the template!
 

RicksMaverick

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I thought about aluminum, thought might be too flimsy, so I went the galvanized steel, definitely stronger and won't dent as easy. No doubt will get rocks thrown up from the tire.
Salt eats aluminum if not anodized, primed & painted so if he gets winter, not good choice.
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