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mcc63303

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I've made a filler panel to prevent water/snow/dirt and what ever from going up behind the left rear tail light assembly. I used Galvanized Steel after making a prototype out of cardboard. Had to make sure to give more than enough clearance of wiring so as to not rub. Thought I could use the one bolt at lower inner fender side but the nut (10mm) is not a nut that can be removed, believe the nut is part of the bracket and the bolt comes through from the outside. Now I have a clip to attach the panel to the bolt temporally, will try something different later. Used the one large bolt (18mm) in the frame at rear of the panel to hold the rear, drilled new holes to secure more areas. I may just cut off the rear leg of the panel (but it does give extra support), don't think it's really needed except for extra support. Be careful if you work with any sheet metal, cuts skin very easy! OH, no rattles or squeaks heard...yet!

I've added more information later in thread.

Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2412


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2407


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2409


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2411


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2418


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2422
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bradFORD

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I've made a filler panel to prevent water/snow/dirt and what ever from going up behind the left rear tail light assembly. I used Galvanized Steel after making a prototype out of cardboard. Had to make sure to give more than enough clearance of wiring so as to not rub. Thought I could use the one bolt at lower outer fender back side but the nut is not a nut that can be removed, believe the nut is part of the bracket and the bolt come through from the outside. Now I have a clip to attach the panel to the bolt, will try something different later. Used the one large bolt (18mm) in the frame at rear of the panel to hold the rear, drilled new holes to secure more areas. I may just cut off the rear leg of the panel, don't think it's really needed. Be careful if you work with any sheet metal, cuts skin very easy!

View attachment 46012

IMG_2407.JPG


IMG_2409.JPG


IMG_2411.JPG


IMG_2418.JPG


IMG_2422.JPG
Patent on it now
 

Ringo

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Real nice work! I like it. (y)
 

WesM

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Nice, yea I'm thinking about doing something similar to mine when I get it... Not sure what material I will use, was thinking maybe 316 stainless steel for its corrosion resistance.

Roughly how much material did you need? Would a 12"x24" sheet cover it?
 
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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Nice, yea I'm thinking about doing something similar to mine when I get it... Not sure what material I will use, was thinking maybe 316 stainless steel for its corrosion resistance.

Roughly how much material did you need? Would a 12"x24" sheet cover it?
14"X16.5" is about the size needed to do as I have but without the leg. With leg it's about 21.5" long and the 16.5" wide. It's about 15 inches from frame width to fender but then I added 1.5 inch for the bend down to have a mounting place (bolt with clip). I did the cut outs at the fender thinking I could remove the nut so I may make another one with no cut out being that I could not remove the nut so would fit flat against inner fender.. I did tuck it up against the back of the fender well.
 
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clavicus

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Just curious, why not aluminum sheet metal?
 
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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Just curious, why not aluminum sheet metal?
I thought about aluminum, thought might be too flimsy, so I went the galvanized steel, definitely stronger and won't dent as easy. No doubt will get rocks thrown up from the tire.
 

Medium_fish

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Absolutely wonderful!! Can you share the measurements?
 
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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Thought about possibly adhering a thin layer of ceramic tile on the underside of the metal to provide some additional heat shielding?

Bonus: easier to wash clean.
I feel you're over thinking this. With at the rear of the exhaust I don't feel heat will be an issue. It would be very difficult to get any tile to adhere and stay adhered to the somewhat flimsy metal and really no need for anything stronger. The galvanized steel should wash off as easy as anything.
 
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mcc63303

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More measurements.

As I stated earlier the overall size is about 14"X16.5" needed to do as I have but without the leg.
-With leg it's about 21.5" long and the 16.5" wide.
-15.0" is the width of the shield from inside edge of frame to inner fender. (1.5" more needed for bend down to attach to bolt at inside fender where I temporally have the clip in the photo)
-14.0"(maybe 13.5') is distance from inside inner fender well toward the rear of vehicle.
-About 2.75" down you need to cut back (about an inch) toward the front and cut down to give more room from the wires where wiring is a problem at the back of the shield. (I guess you can just make it 13.0'' and not notch the shield but may have a problem then using 18mm bolt)
-note: the edge along the inner fender is not straight, I've angled it in 3/4 inch due to frame to inner fender gets less as you go back.
-Without the leg there is nothing to support the back of the shield if you just make a panel 14.0"X16.5".
-leg is about 8.0" longer than the 14.0" shield thus the total length of the shield is about 21.5" total.
-at the back of the leg there is a plastic body panel that when the part of the leg is bent it can be attached easily with a screw to the plastic body panel.
-for clearance reasons the leg has to be cut at an angle, at the rear about 1.5" up from bottom of shield (not including the bend up at inner fender well.)
-I went to inside edge of frame so I could use the large 18mm bolt to support the back inside edge of the shield and drilled 2 holes in shield and frame and added 2 screws. (see photo)

Sizes are approximate and the shield can be made a little larger/smaller in most areas.

**I highly recommend making a cardboard prototype first and see what works best for you. As you fit it in you will see why I have the cut outs at inner fender due to clips that stick through. The leg to the back is a bit of a hassle. You can trim the cardboard as needed until you get a good fit. You do need the 1.5" bend to attach to inner fender bolt.

***Most important, looking at the inside of the fender you will see the bolt that sticks through that I have the clip on. There is a 10mm nut that looks like it can be unthreaded, It can't! I even went so far as using a cut-off wheel to try to cut the nut off, it's part of the fender brace and the bolt apparently threads through from the outside. Looking at it will make sense. I used a clip temporally (will get a "push on nut") due to damaging the bolt threads, my suggestion would be to use a threaded nut if possible to secure the shield at the inner fender.

photos with measurements are not to scale but will give somewhat of an idea of what I did. Hope this helps. Looks like I can't spell bumper.

Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2424


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2426


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2429


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening IMG_2430


Ford Maverick Custom fabricated cover / filler panel for left rear underbody opening 20220405_202409
 
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Mymaverick2021

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I've made a filler panel to prevent water/snow/dirt and what ever from going up behind the left rear tail light assembly. I used Galvanized Steel after making a prototype out of cardboard. Had to make sure to give more than enough clearance of wiring so as to not rub. Thought I could use the one bolt at lower inner fender side but the nut (10mm) is not a nut that can be removed, believe the nut is part of the bracket and the bolt comes through from the outside. Now I have a clip to attach the panel to the bolt temporally, will try something different later. Used the one large bolt (18mm) in the frame at rear of the panel to hold the rear, drilled new holes to secure more areas. I may just cut off the rear leg of the panel (but it does give extra support), don't think it's really needed except for extra support. Be careful if you work with any sheet metal, cuts skin very easy! OH, no rattles or squeaks heard...yet!

I've added more information later in tread.

View attachment 46012

IMG_2407.JPG


IMG_2409.JPG


IMG_2411.JPG


IMG_2418.JPG


IMG_2422.JPG
I've heard that's only a problem with the Ecoboost is that what you've used the sheet metal on
 
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mcc63303

mcc63303

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I've heard that's only a problem with the Ecoboost is that what you've used the sheet metal on
No, my Maverick is a Hybrid XL.
I was thinking I should specify that incase it was only on Hybrids... I would think all Mavericks have the same issue however.
 

uh50

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More measurements.

As I stated earlier the overall size is about 14"X16.5" needed to do as I have but without the leg.
-With leg it's about 21.5" long and the 16.5" wide.
-15.0" is the width of the shield from inside edge of frame to inner fender. (1.5" more needed for bend down to attach to bolt at inside fender where I temporally have the clip in the photo)
-14.0"(maybe 13.5') is distance from inside inner fender well toward the rear of vehicle.
-About 2.75" down you need to cut back (about an inch) toward the front and cut down to give more room from the wires where wiring is a problem at the back of the shield. (I guess you can just make it 13.0'' and not notch the shield but may have a problem then using 18mm bolt)
-note: the edge along the inner fender is not straight, I've angled it in 3/4 inch due to frame to inner fender gets less as you go back.
-Without the leg there is nothing to support the back of the shield if you just make a panel 14.0"X16.5".
-leg is about 8.0" longer than the 14.0" shield thus the total length of the shield is about 21.5" total.
-at the back of the leg there is a plastic body panel that when the part of the leg is bent it can be attached easily with a screw to the plastic body panel.
-for clearance reasons the leg has to be cut at an angle, at the rear about 1.5" up from bottom of shield (not including the bend up at inner fender well.)
-I went to inside edge of frame so I could use the large 18mm bolt to support the back inside edge of the shield and drilled 2 holes in shield and frame and added 2 screws. (see photo)

Sizes are approximate and the shield can be made a little larger/smaller in most areas.

**I highly recommend making a cardboard prototype first and see what works best for you. As you fit it in you will see why I have the cut outs at inner fender due to clips that stick through. The leg to the back is a bit of a hassle. You can trim the cardboard as needed until you get a good fit. You do need the 1.5" bend to attach to inner fender bolt.

***Most important, looking at the inside of the fender you will see the bolt that sticks through that I have the clip on. There is a 10mm nut that looks like it can be unthreaded, It can't! I even went so far as using a cut-off wheel to try to cut the nut off, it's part of the fender brace and the bolt apparently threads through from the outside. Looking at it will make sense. I used a clip temporally (will get a "push on nut") due to damaging the bolt threads, my suggestion would be to use a threaded nut if possible to secure the shield at the inner fender.

photos with measurements are not to scale but will give somewhat of an idea of what I did. Hope this helps. Looks like I can't spell bumper.

IMG_2424.webp


IMG_2426.webp


IMG_2429.webp


IMG_2430.webp


20220405_202409.webp
Great job for needed protection that should have been part of the Maverick originally. Thanks for the great write up and the photos of the the template. You should market the idea as a low cost protection mod. Again, thanks for posting.
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