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Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation

LEDLITES

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Hey can you give me the harness number I will need for the front and rear speakers you installed? I picked up the 69$ ones and I have some audio frogs for the front.
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sunismymed

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Tweeters installed…. went with those first because as I started to take apart the door, realized I could tackle the tweeters without a single screw needing to be removed. These things are as close to plug and play as you’ll find right now.
(snip)
as the harness is pre wired for plug and play).
That's good news, but surprised me because I had only seen the video referenced on this forum BlakesCars2 who swapped the door speakers. But when he did the tweeters on top of the dash - he cut the factory plug of first, and he had to MacGyver a mounting base for them.

Your approach is much preferred. Did you make a video of the install, or have more pics by chance?

Anyway, thanks for sharing. I'd love to go somewhat higher end for the audio.
 
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BootXL76

BootXL76

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Hey can you give me the harness number I will need for the front and rear speakers you installed? I picked up the 69$ ones and I have some audio frogs for the front.
72-5602 for the front doors and 72-5600 for the rear and tweeter (you’ll have to be patient and pay extra close attention that you’re connecting negative to negative etc)


That's good news, but surprised me because I had only seen the video referenced on this forum BlakesCars2 who swapped the door speakers. But when he did the tweeters on top of the dash - he cut the factory plug of first, and he had to MacGyver a mounting base for them.

Your approach is much preferred. Did you make a video of the install, or have more pics by chance?

Anyway, thanks for sharing. I'd love to go somewhat higher end for the audio.
I did not take a video, I was mostly using my phone as a flashlight. I do have a pic deeper in the thread of my 2nd replacement of them. I do have to take the passenger side off so I’ll try to take a video or at least more pics when I do.
Definitely let me know how much you end up liking the audio frogs, they were in heavy consideration until I decided on all Hertz.


side note not related to the above replies:
With deciding to go all Hertz, I ended up ordering a Hertz Cento 10” Cs-250 S2 and I’m working on the below box design

Ford Maverick Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation 87A53D18-F29A-465E-B8D2-33B6B851E88A


I’ve still got some finalizing/cleaning up to do but here’s where the amp is gonna mount (with disti blocks underneath) - the board you see won’t be there, it’s temporary while I’m working on metal mounting bracket for the bottom half
Ford Maverick Budget stock Audio upgrades (XL) - plan, research, options and experimentation 60D24343-BB87-48A5-A6D5-C9C1CAE6E518
 
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MikeyG

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Where are you putting the sub at? Under the rear seat?
 
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Where are you putting the sub at? Under the rear seat?
Behind the rear seat basically running that whole side of the back wall…. I’ve pretty much got the dimensions dialed in fem testing other boxes (after removing the board I built for the hideaway).
I’ll be recess mounting the sub face. I really wanted a 12 but couldn’t find what I wanted that would match up the cubic footage well enough.

I’m running this CompC 8 temporarily (and this also fits under the rear seat without removing the bin)
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I’ll be removing the middle seatbelt assembly to open up space for a wider enclosure
It seems like a waste plus it’s annoying when you put down the seat back

Looking forward to seeing your final enclosure build
 
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BootXL76

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I’ll be removing the middle seatbelt assembly to open up space for a wider enclosure
It seems like a waste plus it’s annoying when you put down the seat back

Looking forward to seeing your final enclosure build
That’s awesome, looking forward to seeing that done…. Could def do 2 12s with the whole back wall…. But I’m optimistic the single 10 will give me what I’m looking for
 

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That’s awesome, looking forward to seeing that done…. Could def do 2 12s with the whole back wall…. But I’m optimistic the single 10 will give me what I’m looking for
That would be the plan
 

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For the people installing the Kicker Hideaway 8" as your sub are you tapping into the speaker wires in the 4" c-pillar speakers or are you tapping all the way up in the front of the cab at the harness plugs?? Thanks.

As a second question, is a LOC required when adding the Kicker Hideaway?
 
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BootXL76

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For the people installing the Kicker Hideaway 8" as your sub are you tapping into the speaker wires in the 4" c-pillar speakers or are you tapping all the way up in the front of the cab at the harness plugs?? Thanks.

As a second question, is a LOC required when adding the Kicker Hideaway?
Some have run them behind the ac controls and/or from the front dash line. The rear c column leads have given issues.
I know some didn’t have an issue using high level, I had protection mode issues over 18 volume (didn’t happen immediately but started doing it a few days after install)…. I tried re-running the speaker leads, power, ground…. Same thing…. Even tried another hideaway unit same thing, the lc2iPro fixed my issue (but you may not have that problem, got a $23 dollar Rockford fosgate converter off eBay I was going to try but went a different route)
 
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Some have run them behind the ac controls and/or from the front dash line. The rear c column leads have given issues.
I know some didn’t have an issue using high level, I had protection mode issues over 18 volume (didn’t happen immediately but started doing it a few days after install)…. I tried re-running the speaker leads, power, ground…. Same thing…. Even tried another hideaway unit same thing, the lc2iPro fixed my issue (but you may not have that problem, got a $23 dollar Rockford fosgate converter off eBay I was going to try but went a different route)

So would THIS work or would THIS be better. Trying to do a decent speaker upgrade at around $600.
 
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BootXL76

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So would THIS work or would THIS be better. Trying to do a decent speaker upgrade at around $600.
Audiocontrol is awesome and you can’t go wrong with them, however if budget is a big factor you “should” be good with the metra. Heck I even have a soundstream bx108z you could have if you want bass processing to go with the metra. I won’t be using it (and have no idea if it’s actually any good compared to the accubass)

what’s cool about the lc2i is it has GTO which senses the signal and you don’t need a remote wire run to it, and you can still use the remote out to run to your amp.
 

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Behind the rear seat basically running that whole side of the back wall…. I’ve pretty much got the dimensions dialed in fem testing other boxes (after removing the board I built for the hideaway).
I’ll be recess mounting the sub face. I really wanted a 12 but couldn’t find what I wanted that would match up the cubic footage well enough.

I’m running this CompC 8 temporarily (and this also fits under the rear seat without removing the bin)
E44EC21E-BA9C-4E88-BA70-3317D086DCA6.jpeg
Ok looking forward to seeing the new sub box installed. I have a 10” sundown sd2 and the mounting depth says 4 3/4 I wonder if that would be able to fit behind the rear seat. The only thing this the rubber at the top sticks out another 1” or so.
 
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BootXL76

BootXL76

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Ok looking forward to seeing the new sub box installed. I have a 10” sundown sd2 and the mounting depth says 4 3/4 I wonder if that would be able to fit behind the rear seat. The only thing this the rubber at the top sticks out another 1” or so.
I’ll let you know, the cs250 is 4 5/8 top mount depth, but it should fit based on the box parameters I set…. We’ll see (hopefully by the end of this coming weekend)
 

uh50

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I'm sure there are lots of guys wondering what the heck are you going to do with your surplus installed and removed audio equipment? :cool:
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