Audio system / subs upgrades "bass"

[JaxMav]

Bummer to hear about the rockford, it's been far too long since I was in this space, I've got a JL 10TW3-D4 in the cart now, they have some scratch and dent for $367. I might just order that now to get that price and figure out the amp later. I'm going to replace the stock speakers and probably drive those with an amp as well, what's up in the air for me right now is just completely bypassing the existing stereo and using my ipad mini as a head unit (right now it's mounted in front of the stock stereo) versus routing through the stock unit via bluetooth like I have it now.

I am just a little curious. When you go to install the after market amp do you not want to use a LOC (Line Out Converter) to get your signal from the factory head unit?

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[04mach146]

I am just a little curious. When you go to install the after market amp do you not want to use a LOC (Line Out Converter) to get your signal from the factory head unit?

You tend to get more distortion for stock units than you do with the ipad mini. Along with other benefits such as having an iPad mini lol.

 

[04mach146]

Bummer to hear about the rockford, it's been far too long since I was in this space, I've got a JL 10TW3-D4 in the cart now, they have some scratch and dent for $367. I might just order that now to get that price and figure out the amp later. I'm going to replace the stock speakers and probably drive those with an amp as well, what's up in the air for me right now is just completely bypassing the existing stereo and using my ipad mini as a head unit (right now it's mounted in front of the stock stereo) versus routing through the stock unit via bluetooth like I have it now.

I can say that you will run into issues with your door speakers when you do this setup. So replacing them anyway as they are a joke to begin with is a good thought in your part. And I'm not saying Rockford is a joke of a speaker they're still good just not what they used to be compared to others especially in the shallow subwoofer category... but the 10tw3 is a good choice aswell I'd get the 5 channel from memphis PRXA700.5 - 700w 5-Channel but that's a pricey amp aswell... looking at 500+ but that would push everything with more than enough power if u can find something used they hold up pretty well.

 

[Darnon]

I am just a little curious. When you go to install the after market amp do you not want to use a LOC (Line Out Converter) to get your signal from the factory head unit?

Depends on the input requirements of your equipment. Many amplifiers nowadays can support high/speaker-level input. So you don't necessarily need a LOC if the output voltage is in spec and the amplifier's built-in conversion is good.

 

[JaxMav]

Depends on the input requirements of your equipment. Many amplifiers nowadays can support high/speaker-level input. So you don't necessarily need a LOC if the output voltage is in spec and the amplifier's built-in conversion is good.

I was looking at the JL-LOC 22 as it has a few things built in to deal with factory head units. Such as the low input signal switch that seems pretty useful.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698...awkw=jl+loc+22&awmt=p&awnw=s&awat=&awug=74096

However, now I'm curious about this ipad mini set up, haha. I haven't done an install for probably close to 20 years. So this has all been a learning experience of new stuff to play with and trying to figure out how I want to attack it. I guess waiting on a new fuel tank before I can actually buy my maverick is a blessing so I can keep seeing different ideas on builds.

 

[All4spl]

While many current car audio amplifiers can take line input level I would rather use something like an Audio Control LCQ-1 or a DM-608. The DM-608 gives you not only a device that will convert that line level into RCAs but also a Digital Sound Processor that will give you all the control you need to fine tune. Also the Audio Control devices have signal detect so when current is passed over the line level it will remote trigger turn on and gives you an output to wire to your amps to turn as well eliminating the need to run an independent remote turn on lead to the fuse box.

Since the NON-B&O head unit is probably 2Volt output at best, I would HIGHLY recommend using some kind of reputable line convertor when installing after market amplifiers no matter the brand.

I have yet to get to order my maverick, but as an idea here is what I would run.

Focal Access 3way kit: https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/...ons/performance/access/component-kits/165-as3
With the 3inch driver and tweeter in custom fiberglass pods in the A-pillar. The 6.5 inch woofer in the factory door location.

Front stage power Sundown Audio SFB-200.4D
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/sfb-series/sfb-200-4d/

Subwoofers: 2x Sundown Audio U Series 12s as they are the closest to my old ZV3 subs. And I am unsure if I can get 2 15s where the back seat is in the maverick yet.
These will be in a custom ported box subs forward ports up using Aero Ports with the ability to cap off ports to lower tuning for more daily driving listening and uncapped for competition if I desire to do competition again after retiring twice from it.
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/subwoofers/u-series/

Subwoofers power Sundown Audio SFB-5000D
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/sfb-series/sfb-5000d/

All power wiring will be OFC 0 AWG Monster cable that I have still a bunch left over on a roll. Probably use Stinger for RCAs and any other wiring accessories needed. Battery/batteries will be Full Throttle AGMs and if needed a high output alternator.

Of course before any of this is done I would deaden the entire floor, doors and cab including the roof with Second Skin sound deadener. Doors and roof would also get a layer of acoustic foam, floor and back of cab would get a layer of MLV.

I would not use the factory location rear speakers, they would simply be removed and not used at all.

 

[Eagle11]

While many current car audio amplifiers can take line input level I would rather use something like an Audio Control LCQ-1 or a DM-608. The DM-608 gives you not only a device that will convert that line level into RCAs but also a Digital Sound Processor that will give you all the control you need to fine tune. Also the Audio Control devices have signal detect so when current is passed over the line level it will remote trigger turn on and gives you an output to wire to your amps to turn as well eliminating the need to run an independent remote turn on lead to the fuse box.

Since the NON-B&O head unit is probably 2Volt output at best, I would HIGHLY recommend using some kind of reputable line convertor when installing after market amplifiers no matter the brand.

I have yet to get to order my maverick, but as an idea here is what I would run.

Focal Access 3way kit: https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/...ons/performance/access/component-kits/165-as3
With the 3inch driver and tweeter in custom fiberglass pods in the A-pillar. The 6.5 inch woofer in the factory door location.

Front stage power Sundown Audio SFB-200.4D
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/sfb-series/sfb-200-4d/

Subwoofers: 2x Sundown Audio U Series 12s as they are the closest to my old ZV3 subs. And I am unsure if I can get 2 15s where the back seat is in the maverick yet.
These will be in a custom ported box subs forward ports up using Aero Ports with the ability to cap off ports to lower tuning for more daily driving listening and uncapped for competition if I desire to do competition again after retiring twice from it.
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/subwoofers/u-series/

Subwoofers power Sundown Audio SFB-5000D
https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/sfb-series/sfb-5000d/

All power wiring will be OFC 0 AWG Monster cable that I have still a bunch left over on a roll. Probably use Stinger for RCAs and any other wiring accessories needed. Battery/batteries will be Full Throttle AGMs and if needed a high output alternator.

Of course before any of this is done I would deaden the entire floor, doors and cab including the roof with Second Skin sound deadener. Doors and roof would also get a layer of acoustic foam, floor and back of cab would get a layer of MLV.

I would not use the factory location rear speakers, they would simply be removed and not used at all.

The issue is, is it needed for a system that isn't turned for competition?

 

[All4spl]

The issue is, is it needed for a system that isn't turned for competition?

If your only say changing out the speakers and amplifying just them then sure, but if you have the NON-B&O system you will not have a line output for a subwoofer if you install one, so you will have to get signal from somewhere. In that case something like the Audio Control LC6i would be sufficient as it gives you up to 6 channels of line level input and 6 channels of rca output. So you would have enough connections for a 4 channel amp for the mids/highs in the doors and rear, and for a subwoofer amplifier.

 

[Eagle11]

If your only say changing out the speakers and amplifying just them then sure, but if you have the NON-B&O system you will not have a line output for a subwoofer if you install one, so you will have to get signal from somewhere. In that case something like the Audio Control LC6i would be sufficient as it gives you up to 6 channels of line level input and 6 channels of rca output. So you would have enough connections for a 4 channel amp for the mids/highs in the doors and rear, and for a subwoofer amplifier.

Not needed in a daily driver, but then what do I know.

 

[BootXL76]

I was looking at the JL-LOC 22 as it has a few things built in to deal with factory head units. Such as the low input signal switch that seems pretty useful.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698...awkw=jl+loc+22&awmt=p&awnw=s&awat=&awug=74096

I haven't done an install for probably close to 20 years. So this has all been a learning experience of new stuff to play with and trying to figure out how I want to attack it.

This is me exactly…. I think the last system I put in a car was ‘01…. Everything I’ve had since either already had one put in it prior to my buying or the factory was good enough for me (as was the case with my ‘16 highlander and Camry SE)
Will be doing my first install in over 20 years this weekend

 

[BootXL76]

Depends on the input requirements of your equipment. Many amplifiers nowadays can support high/speaker-level input. So you don't necessarily need a LOC if the output voltage is in spec and the amplifier's built-in conversion is good.

To add onto this, in regards to most cheap LOCs, you’re likely better off just using old school rca line converters on some quality speaker wire (and then running the remote tapping the fuse box). Now if you’re going an LCA that has multiple outs that a different story, but for a single channel….

 

[JaxMav]

Not needed in a daily driver, but then what do I know.

Need, nope, but for me personally for a daily driver. I want a good sound system, but we are all different, and this thread is about upgrading and adding a sub.

 

[JaxMav]

This is me exactly…. I think the last system I put in a car was ‘01…. Everything I’ve had since either already had one put in it prior to my buying or the factory was good enough for me (as was the case with my ‘16 highlander and Camry SE)
Will be doing my first install in over 20 years this weekend

Ya, my last upgrade was a brand new 2000 civic. I have grabbed a few things for the install already, but this wait for fuel tank to get this truck finally is wearing on my patience.

I have had to talk myself out of grabbing a nissan frontier off a lot as I know I will kick my self later for not waiting another month or two. The maverick just ticks all the boxes from color, wheels, towing, mpg, and options.

 

[BootXL76]

Ya, my last upgrade was a brand new 2000 civic.

Similar for me, last one was either ‘99 civic or ‘98 accord (not brand new)

 

[scwilson]

I see you like the boom. I too like the boom!

I am really curious for ideas on what to do with the maverick. I want to do something under the seat. My children are 3 and 5, so no turning the back seat into a speaker box area. I was thinking of removing the plastic storage area and putting just some simple subs with a simple amp. I'm a JL fan when it bass. Kicker is my close second. Alpine is doable if I don't have any other options.

I squeezed 2 8s under the seat .. .5 cube in 2 separate boxes then a plate in the middle for amp and audio control.. nothing crazy but a lil something.. lol

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