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- 2024 LARIAT AWD
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- 2.0L EcoBoost
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- #1
I completed 2 modifications to the bed of my 2024. 1 I said I didn't need, I was wrong, the other is something ALL may need if they have a tonneau cover. I added a tailgate strut 
, Maxzina $19.99 which also required buying the Neiko Torx + bit set $21.06
As I admitted to @Glen Baker LLC age determined I needed this. I had been using the weed whacker, which always causes me arm issues, I pulled on the latch and the tailgate slipped from my hand. Not to worry it did not slam down my thigh cushioned the fall. This did convince me to NOT add a larger tailgate spoiler though
since I had a nice bruise from the factory one.
Next was following the video instructions from Todd @Realtruck for eliminating leaks at the bulkhead when using a tonneau cover. A little over a year ago I ordered and installed a Rough Country low profile flip up cover, $900.95. I would not recommend this cover for anyone with the factory rails that come on the Lariat. See the clamp pictures why. Also the seal supplied is basically a sponge on a Maverick.
The supplied clamp is on the left. I ordered CGI G16 clamps, used composite shims to make spacers for the clamps. These were installed after the bulkhead sealing.
The supplied clamps block the use of the rail.
As you can see NOW the rail is usable. If you decide to follow Todd's video I will warn you the clips on the bottom of the C pillar trim pieces can fall into the black hole of doom.
I went to 3 parts stores until I found a sort of replacement for the lost clip. I trimmed it down to fit and it actually fits into the trim piece better than factory.
Original on the left, GM clip in the center, altered clip on the right.
Here are pictures of the bulkhead bare and with an ESI seal installed, 15.50. I ordered and installed a CuraceQ seal from Amazon, 7.99. If you order the CuraceQ save some time and just throw it immediately in the garbage can.
As you can see the ESI is a kit with adhesion promoter included. Following are comparisons of the Rough Country seal and ESI seal.
Here's the seal installed.
In the last 2 pictures you can see where I added silicone sealer to low spots that the seal could not conform to. I also used silicone to seal the side pieces gap once everything was reassembled.
If you notice the wet areas in the bed this was from a test. I found I also had to add some of the smaller seal supplied by Rough Country to the fixed section of the cover at the bulkhead. Otherwise water would run in the end of the attached rubber seal and between the rail and bed.
I tested the seal affectiveness with a 1 liter bottle of water and all seemed good. Thunderstorms tonight so I will check in the morning for leaks. Will the bed be 100% water tight? NO! But this should stop 98% of the leakage at the bulkhead and side trim gap. Also I saw on FB last year someone used butyl rubber tape to seal that gap. IT DOES NOT WORK! Do not waste your time using butyl it shrinks,cracks, and leaks.
, Maxzina $19.99 which also required buying the Neiko Torx + bit set $21.06
As I admitted to @Glen Baker LLC age determined I needed this. I had been using the weed whacker, which always causes me arm issues, I pulled on the latch and the tailgate slipped from my hand. Not to worry it did not slam down my thigh cushioned the fall. This did convince me to NOT add a larger tailgate spoiler though
since I had a nice bruise from the factory one.Next was following the video instructions from Todd @Realtruck for eliminating leaks at the bulkhead when using a tonneau cover. A little over a year ago I ordered and installed a Rough Country low profile flip up cover, $900.95. I would not recommend this cover for anyone with the factory rails that come on the Lariat. See the clamp pictures why. Also the seal supplied is basically a sponge on a Maverick.
The supplied clamp is on the left. I ordered CGI G16 clamps, used composite shims to make spacers for the clamps. These were installed after the bulkhead sealing.
The supplied clamps block the use of the rail.
As you can see NOW the rail is usable. If you decide to follow Todd's video I will warn you the clips on the bottom of the C pillar trim pieces can fall into the black hole of doom.
I went to 3 parts stores until I found a sort of replacement for the lost clip. I trimmed it down to fit and it actually fits into the trim piece better than factory.
Original on the left, GM clip in the center, altered clip on the right.
Here are pictures of the bulkhead bare and with an ESI seal installed, 15.50. I ordered and installed a CuraceQ seal from Amazon, 7.99. If you order the CuraceQ save some time and just throw it immediately in the garbage can.
As you can see the ESI is a kit with adhesion promoter included. Following are comparisons of the Rough Country seal and ESI seal.
Here's the seal installed.
In the last 2 pictures you can see where I added silicone sealer to low spots that the seal could not conform to. I also used silicone to seal the side pieces gap once everything was reassembled.
If you notice the wet areas in the bed this was from a test. I found I also had to add some of the smaller seal supplied by Rough Country to the fixed section of the cover at the bulkhead. Otherwise water would run in the end of the attached rubber seal and between the rail and bed.
I tested the seal affectiveness with a 1 liter bottle of water and all seemed good. Thunderstorms tonight so I will check in the morning for leaks. Will the bed be 100% water tight? NO! But this should stop 98% of the leakage at the bulkhead and side trim gap. Also I saw on FB last year someone used butyl rubber tape to seal that gap. IT DOES NOT WORK! Do not waste your time using butyl it shrinks,cracks, and leaks.
Sponsored
. I did remove plenty of the factory foam seal to allow good flow under the C pillar trim pieces.
