How Everyone Is Wiring Components On B&O

[xfire133]

Hello all again. Just curious how everyone is wiring their component set in the front doors. I have a 26 Lariat B&O and have some Hertz cpk 6.5 pros I want to install but I'm confused about the b&o crossover design. I read that the amp has an active high pass for the dash tweeter and the door woofer separately but then also read about that the speakers have a high pass soldered on. What's the point of that if it's already crossover from the amp? Where would I add my included Hertz passive crossover and or would I even need to use it? I figure I would add it on the tweeter channel but I would like the woofer focusing on mids more so would I need two?

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[Toddman45]

Most if not all aftermarket tweeters come with a inline capacitor to block low frequencies. I know the hurts models do is that's the components I installed in my Maverick. I'm not sure or haven't looked at the model you have but if it has its own crossover board that accepts the speaker input from your vehicle and then has the mid-range out and tweet her out I would install your crossover either under the dash, or behind the door panel and then you'll have to drill out that connector and feed your wire through the loom up into the dash to the tweeter.

It won't be the most fun but it's worth it because I believe your door speaker and Tweeter from the factory are run in series, maybe it's parallel it's the end of the night and my brains kind of shut down.

I'm not positive about the b&o tweeters but I would imagine they're like the stock XLT they have a built-in capacitor to block the little frequencies.

 

[xfire133]

Most if not all aftermarket tweeters come with a inline capacitor to block low frequencies. I know the hurts models do is that's the components I installed in my Maverick. I'm not sure or haven't looked at the model you have but if it has its own crossover board that accepts the speaker input from your vehicle and then has the mid-range out and tweet her out I would install your crossover either under the dash, or behind the door panel and then you'll have to drill out that connector and feed your wire through the loom up into the dash to the tweeter.

It won't be the most fun but it's worth it because I believe your door speaker and Tweeter from the factory are run in series, maybe it's parallel it's the end of the night and my brains kind of shut down.

I'm not positive about the b&o tweeters but I would imagine they're like the stock XLT they have a built-in capacitor to block the little frequencies.

yes it has a crossover board that i need to wire from speaker in to woofer out and tweeter out. but my question is would i just wire the tweeter to it? and leave the woofer plugged into oem connector

 

[Toddman45]

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301CPK165P/Hertz-CPK-165-PRO.html?tp=106

Lucas, if those are the components you have. I would use the included crossover and run the speaker wire from the door speaker to it, then out to the mid-range driver, then through the loom of the door to the dash tweeter. It'll take some fiddling and a drill to run that wire through the door and the loom but it'll be worth it in the end.

 

[xfire133]

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301CPK165P/Hertz-CPK-165-PRO.html?tp=106

Lucas, if those are the components you have. I would use the included crossover and run the speaker wire from the door speaker to it, then out to the mid-range driver, then through the loom of the door to the dash tweeter. It'll take some fiddling and a drill to run that wire through the door and the loom but it'll be worth it in the end.

I figured that was the outcome.. would i lose power/loudness from just using one connector? (If that makes sense). and also if i leave the tweeter unplugged i read the b&o amp might go into protection mode.

 

[Toddman45]

I figured that was the outcome.. would i lose power/loudness from just using one connector? (If that makes sense). and also if i leave the tweeter unplugged i read the b&o amp might go into protection mode.

I mean if you're just wanting to go the lazy route and not use the included crossover there are sites like crutchfield and others that sell base blockers but they're only rated for certain Watts but in my opinion I would just take the time to properly install the included crossover either under the dash or behind the door panel.

That's not that difficult just time-consuming running that wire through the loom and molex connector that you're going to have to find an empty slot and drill on both passenger and driver side doors.

If I spent $500 for a pair of component speakers believe me I'm putting all the included parts and I'm not leaving anything disconnected. I have Hertz k170s myself and they sound really good over the stock speakers that came in the front doors I can only imagine how good yours will sound.

 

[xfire133]

I mean if you're just wanting to go the lazy route and not use the included crossover there are sites like crutchfield and others that sell base blockers but they're only rated for certain Watts but in my opinion I would just take the time to properly install the included crossover either under the dash or behind the door panel.

That's not that difficult just time-consuming running that wire through the loom and molex connector that you're going to have to find an empty slot and drill on both passenger and driver side doors.

If I spent $500 for a pair of component speakers believe me I'm putting all the included parts and I'm not leaving anything disconnected. I have Hertz k170s myself and they sound really good over the stock speakers that came in the front doors I can only imagine how good yours will sound.

I get what your telling me but the b&o amps has two channels per front door one channel for the woofer and another for the tweeter so if I only use the woofer wiring the tweeter wiring would be left unplugged. I hope you understand.

 

[Toddman45]

I get what your telling me but the b&o amps has two channels per front door one channel for the woofer and another for the tweeter so if I only use the woofer wiring the tweeter wiring would be left unplugged. I hope you understand.

Are you positive about that That's the first I've ever heard of it? Because I know the XLTs also without the b&o half the dash tweeters as well as the door speakers but they're ran off the same channel I almost doubt their separate on the b&o.

 

[xfire133]

Are you positive about that That's the first I've ever heard of it? Because I know the XLTs also without the b&o half the dash tweeters as well as the door speakers but they're ran off the same channel I almost doubt their separate on the b&o.

This is what I found, to mean that has seperate wiring and is probably another channel and I believe Ford says they are 5channel amps

 

[Carlitos_92]

This is what I found, to mean that has seperate wiring and is probably another channel and I believe Ford says they are 5channel amps

You are correct; your B&O is not wired the same as the XL/XLTs. Otherwise I would've chimed in already.

Not to revive the horse we beat to death in your other thread, but in Forscan, the door/dash speakers are probably already configured how you'd want them, since the factory speakers are effectively components too. If there are any caps at the speakers themselves, they are in addition to whatever signal processing the head unit is doing.

It is probably worth going ahead and just replacing the speakers one-for-one without your new crossovers to see how it sounds. You'll know if you're pushing either of the driver sets, so there is little risk of damage. It's been done before, though I haven't searched for other examples: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/b-o-tweeter-wiring-questions.58606/

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