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K I was playing with the dip switches and got decent quality playing now but highs are harsh, I'm unable to do autosteup as the mic when I plug it in the amp goes in prt mode and the mic button does nothing

hello i just installed a kicker key 200.4 inline of the output wires for my front doors/tweeters i am running it in biamp and have the tweeters ran to channels 1&2 and the woofers 3 and 4. new speakers and everything, i have sound but it is so bad quality there is no lows or mids only harsh...

how was the components wired in? straight the factory plugs or using passive crossover?

This is what I found, to mean that has seperate wiring and is probably another channel and I believe Ford says they are 5channel amps

I get what your telling me but the b&o amps has two channels per front door one channel for the woofer and another for the tweeter so if I only use the woofer wiring the tweeter wiring would be left unplugged. I hope you understand.

I figured that was the outcome.. would i lose power/loudness from just using one connector? (If that makes sense). and also if i leave the tweeter unplugged i read the b&o amp might go into protection mode.

yes it has a crossover board that i need to wire from speaker in to woofer out and tweeter out. but my question is would i just wire the tweeter to it? and leave the woofer plugged into oem connector

Hello all again. Just curious how everyone is wiring their component set in the front doors. I have a 26 Lariat B&O and have some Hertz cpk 6.5 pros I want to install but I'm confused about the b&o crossover design. I read that the amp has an active high pass for the dash tweeter and the door...

Yes, I miss my single din Kenwood but I also like my big screen!

problem with adding a sub is the factory base roll off, the sub is the only speaker seeing the lower frequencies so cant really use a line out on other speakers. unless you go A2B adapter but nothing is available to us yet in Canada.

Okay fair enough about the mids, the seat is high enough to make a triangular box and have the woofer facing back instead of up in the seat. So sill might work. I have the idea stuck in my head to try this set up and report to y'all about it. But I do agree new 4" speaker would be easier but I...

i think it would make a big difference in total noise and quality coming from the rear plus i will tune the ACM in forscan for a flat EQ and not the fords set poopy EQ

Im having trouble wrapping my head around that it would not sound good, its very front biased because the amount of sound coming from the front plus alittle software jazz, adding in a woofer and tweeter x2 that will be crossed over in the back and receiving full range would play way better no...

I actually just called Idata and the rep said it would not work but he didn't sound 100%, he mentioned i could buy it to try it which gives me the he's not actually sure impression. regardless I doubt it works either must have changed something, probably the sync4 interface.

Do you have the B&O? I've read people changing the front stock paper cone speakers and getting good quality results.

yes it would only work with forscan!! aslong as i get a full range it would be worth it, but you are right if I only get high range then yes id only just change the 4"

I'm 28 years old and love good sounding music so what wouldn't be worth it? plus your argument is frequencies over 14k which I'm not concerned with, id be adding more lower frequencies then higher with this setup. aka use forscan to enable full range to the back and use a component set. to me...

Curious to why you think that, you think because the lack of power and or because of its location? lots of space under the seats and i think it would project sound just fine. I'm literally adding more bass and mids to the rear i'm not sure why you say i wouldn't hear that.. plus factory 4"...

if I didn't have the B&O setup I would do the same but the two amps complicates things just a little more. so I'm waiting for a good A2B/DSP adapter that removes the amp and il just run everything from that.

I'm not an expert in audio but I'm assuming by losing staging you mean the ability to fade to rear? or that id loose that sound from the rear, cuz I don't hear any audio from the rear stock. so if anything by having the new tweeter beside the stock 4" it wouldn't change a thing since both only...