B&O Wiring and Remote

[Darnon]

Worth the effort or was your resistor solution a "good enough" half-measure?

To clarify/summarize my process from over on this thread: I started with the stock speaker with the resistor. A little quieter for balance although still had a bit of tinny, cheap-radio tone. Following the methodology of the Sony Xplods I have in the rear I figured I'd try something cheap and mostly name brand; must be better than stock. The MB Quart 3 1/2" went in (with cutting the grille off their coaxial tweeter) and sounded better. I then did happen to find the listing for a lone Infinity Reference on eBay for almost half the price of the usual pair they're sold as so, what the heck. Altogether a better fitting solution. Despite the 3-ish-ohm impedance it sounds okay levels-wise perhaps because the higher rating demands more power.

I did also recently replace the 6x9" woofer with a Rockville unit. It... mostly doesn't fit and required 3D printing a slightly silly 62mm standoff collar to squeeze the huge magnet it has into the stock housing. A more bespoke housing would be suitable, but the endeavor overall probably isn't worth the effort to encourage beyond 'for the lulz'.

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[JG307]

@Darnon thanks so much for all your advice. I'll let you know what I end up doing!

 

[Gullzway]

There's some low level signal across the speakers whenever the infotainment powers up which opening the door wakes. Depending on sensitivity possibly also when the infotainment does some powered off checks (for updates?). Kickers do seem to require very little to trigger.

Going to run a remote wire tomorrow. All was good since install, but got the Deep Sleep message tonight. Granted I was testing out the new center speaker I installed for 5 minutes or so with the truck off.

It just turns the amp on way too often with this line level input. Every time you open the door, or close it(if the door has been open for a while,) and no telling when else it's turning it on.

 

[Bmr4mav]

Because the bass of a track could be mixed to one side or the other if pulling from a stereo source. But the extant subwoofer output is already combined mono. So you would only need to connect one channel of the hideaway, yes. Also there's a possibility of a low pass filter on the front channels.

Great advice throughout the thread. I just want to point out that you meant to say high pass filter.

I'm doing an install right now and trying to find the appropriate remote turn on wire that feeds into the existing amp. I'll be tapping off the factory sub wires for audio input.

 

[Darnon]

I'm doing an install right now and trying to find the appropriate remote turn on wire that feeds into the existing amp. I'll be tapping off the factory sub wires for audio input.

The stock amp power is hot at all times. It may simply be woken up across the HS canbus. There is the Yellow w/ Violet 'Enable/Clip Detect' line that links it to the ACIM, but not sure if that is relevant. That said it's probably better to connect to more of a known good key-switched power. The ACIM waking up to do things when parked also wakes up the amp (and by extensions auxiliary amps triggered by signal sense).

Edit: Looking at the service manual the Enable/Clip Detect circuit is nominally only some 3-7 volts.

 

[Bmr4mav]

The stock amp power is hot at all times. It may simply be woken up across the HS canbus. There is the Yellow w/ Violet 'Enable/Clip Detect' line that links it to the ACIM, but not sure if that is relevant. That said it's probably better to connect to more of a known good key-switched power. The ACIM waking up to do things when parked also wakes up the amp (and by extensions auxiliary amps triggered by signal sense).

Edit: Looking at the service manual the Enable/Clip Detect circuit is nominally only some 3-7 volts.

Thank you very much.

I bought one of these since I need line level conversion anyway.

DO NOT BUY. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Update. DO NOT BUY THIS ADAPTER IF YOU HAVE A B&O STEREO. You will run into DC Offset issues that will cause your amp to go into protection mode. Amp runs fine if I run the remote input straight to +12v. So I'll be running a remote turn on up front with a fuse tap. The problem is there isn't enough DC voltage to run the remote turn on properly (at least not for my Polk Audio D1000.1).

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