Does Forscan allow for changing the crossover frequencies between the various speakers?

[Wahjahbvious]

Apologies if I'm overlooking documented functionality somewhere; frankly I find the various Forscan charts a bit difficult to parse.

I've seen numerous references to the ability to set a "flat" EQ, but I'm not at all certain that's what I *want.* It seems to me that the front door drivers are receiving audio well below the frequency range that they can adequately handle - or, more precisely, lower than their enclosure can handle. My preferred solution would be to leave those frequencies to the sub and set a highpass filter for the door drivers, but if that's not doable, I suppose I'll need to dynamat the door cards.

In case the references to the sub didn't give it away, this is with the B&O version of the stereo.

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[Carlitos_92]

From what I remember, you can set each pair of speakers to certain functions like "woofer and tweeter" or "tweeter only" which I think will accomplish what you are looking for, though it is a very binary setting based on however Ford defines "woofers' and "tweeters." So no telling what the actual crossover frequency ranges are.

Speaking from experience, "Dynamating" the door cards will pay major dividends in the reduction of outside noise and interior vibration - but while you're in there you could easily swap those OEM speakers to a better set that can handle more bass than the stock system can even give them. I know that is orders of magnitude more work than connecting a laptop for 5 minutes, but vastly worth it IMHO.

 

[Wahjahbvious]

Yeah. The truth is I only care about a car stereo being good *enough,* but the the door rattle on heavyish bass hits (it was Licensed to Ill that first raised the issue) leaves room for improvement.

Speaking from experience, "Dynamating" the door cards will pay major dividends in the reduction of outside noise and interior vibration - but while you're in there you could easily swap those OEM speakers.

 

[rallyshark]

As Carlitos_2 mentioned, there is only a setting for setting the speakers to woofer/tweeter, and it will likely result in a very empty sound. The best solution is a DSP setup with a separate amp for the factory speakers. A cheaper solution is just a separate amp that has a high pass xover. The cheapest solution is to put a capacitor in line(series) of the speaker wire going to the door speakers. There's plenty of info online for finding the right value capacitor to use for a given frequency you're wanting to use. It will only be a 6db xover, but should be an inexpensive solution. The factory stereo already cuts the lowest notes(under 35-40hz). I do recommend the sound deadening though.

 

[Wahjahbvious]

I guess I need to get over my discomfort with working on interior panels. I fucking HATE those little clips; I always struggle to get them to reseat properly.

 

[Tbone289]

I guess I need to get over my discomfort with working on interior panels. I fucking HATE those little clips; I always struggle to get them to reseat properly.

I'm always more concerned with pulling them without breakage than reseating them.

 

[Wahjahbvious]

Also an issue, but I keep spares on hand.
On the whole, though, I'm much more comfortable underneath the car or in the engine bay than I am removing plastic panels.

And that's on cars with plastics that DON'T permanently scratch if you glance at them too aggressively.

I'm always more concerned with pulling them without breakage than reseating them.

 

[sajohnson]

If it isn't too much trouble, you might consider a variable crossover to divert more of the low end to the sub.

The AVS Forum is a good source of info, but they are more oriented toward home audio.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I guess I need to get over my discomfort with working on interior panels. I fucking HATE those little clips; I always struggle to get them to reseat properly.

I get that there a wide range of skillsets and confidence levels around here, and I really do try to keep that in mind when I throw a recommendation out.

The front doors are actually pretty easy, and it is hard to screw them up. A plastic trim tool or prying instrument, a couple of sockets, and a screwdriver are all that is required. I can get you instructions for the process via DM, but am not going to post them openly due to copyright.

The dash tweeter panels/a-pillar trim are a distant second place in terms of easiness. I wouldn't wish the rear panel removal on my worst enemy - but it can be done.

 

[rallyshark]

I get that there a wide range of skillsets and confidence levels around here, and I really do try to keep that in mind when I throw a recommendation out.

The front doors are actually pretty easy, and it is hard to screw them up. A plastic trim tool or prying instrument, a couple of sockets, and a screwdriver are all that is required. I can get you instructions for the process via DM, but am not going to post them openly due to copyright.

The dash tweeter panels/a-pillar trim are a distant second place in terms of easiness. I wouldn't wish the rear panel removal on my worst enemy - but it can be done.

Yep, the rear panel to get at the back speakers is quite the little bastard

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