Rotors and brake pads for 2024 Ford Maverick

[tom_tucker]

That's not great that only a small percent of your pads are touching the rotors.

Your old banned account was famous for messing with people, lol. I don't care what you think about my RR's.

I use my local selling dealer where I have a maint plan too. I'll bet they don't say squat and pass it through. They know the game and want to sell me another one...

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[Maverick123]

I think it's still going to stop you though. Maybe slightly slower reaction time.

Steam (water vapor) in the lines would act like a spring. It's still going to transfer force.

1000 psi is still 1000 psi.

Air - steam - water vapor - water - oil - all will move a piston in a cylinder.

Maybe it comes to a very basic level- piston travel distance.

With a liquid in the lines, one inch of travel on this end will be one inch of travel on the other end if the hose / pipe diameter stays the same. I can imagine if there was vapor in the lines it may take 2 inches of travel on one end to get 1 inch of travel on the other end due to the "spring compressing" effect.

I still can't imagine a total loss of braking power. But reduced, I can see.

OK ...

 

[The Real Maverick]

OK ...

Tell me why it won't work partially.
Seriously.

You're acting as if a few water droplets will completely depressurize the system.

And then, you'll need glowing hot brakes to make it vaporize in a closed system under pressure.

I AM NOT debating this statement:

"If the fluid boils, it creates vapor bubbles in the brake lines. These bubbles are compressible, meaning they don't transmit pressure effectively. This leads to a spongy brake pedal and reduced braking power."

Temperature to get it to do that is well above 700°F. In the 1000°F range by some reports.

 

[Maverick123]

I've seen this happen on track and cars get written off

The pedal goes straight to the floor ... You can pump it up and get a bit of braking back, but by then you've gone off the track and into the wall if there isn't enough runoff

That's why most clubs where you're driving street or dual-purpose cars will test the brake fluid for water % during pre-track tech inspection. If there's too much moisture you're not allowed on track

Coming down a super long hill with a heavy load you can encounter the same thing, and pumping the pedal won't work if there's still ways to go before the bottom - that's why they have gravel traps

I don't know what the failure mode is on heavy trucks with pneumatic brakes, maybe the pads overheat but same basic thing

 

[The Real Maverick]

Thanks.

I've had my Maverick on the racetrack zero times.

Those who race, change your brake fluid more often.

 

[wax87]

My truck. A 22 hybrid XLT with 49,000 miles on it, is in no need of pads or rotors. The only work I've done is bleed or replace the fluid. A 22 you do not need to hook up a scan tool, but newer models you do. The concern is on a vehicle that never gets a brake job the fluid will out live its useful life. Gets moisture in it. Ford recommends every 3 years. Last week I had a person run a red light and pull a left turn in front of me. All 4 wheels locked up just fine. Missed her by only a couple of feet. Then she looks at me like I'm the crazy person!

"Crazy Person" Are you sure she just wasn't seeing herself in the reflection of your well kept Mav?

 

[Womyn95]

Here is 2 pictures of rotors, brakes are at 8mm

 

[Maverick123]

You're not braking enough, those rotors are rusting and getting scored from lack of sufficient braking

A couple times a month, find a road without traffic and do 2-3 moderately hard stops from 60 MPH to 15 MPH

Speed back up to 60 MPH and drive about 3/4 mile between stops to cool the rotors and pads

 

[Maverick2022XL]

I'd get a second opinion.32,000 miles on our 23 ecoboost and we live on a dirt road. Rotors are fine.

I have 22 ecoboost with 4k tow. My rear rotors were toast at 65K. I also tow with my truck so that probably had something to do with it.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

$1400 is total highway robbery like I said $230 for both rotors and the pads are probably 1/2 that, so maybe at most $400 in parts, so $1,000 in labor. My son and I did his Camry in about 2 hours.

You can do cheaper though it does depend on the brand and such. I got a full set front and rear ceramic pads along with front and rear drilled and slotted zinc coated rotors for ~$180 on sale from Detroit Axle on Ebay. They usually run $200 for the full set, you can get the same set with smooth rotors for ~$170 and ~$180. The only tool I had to buy or you can rent one from the auto parts store is a tool to turn the piston on the rear calipers to compress it. I got a brake cube and spent around $15 for that.

 

[tom_tucker]

You're not braking enough, those rotors are rusting and getting scored from lack of sufficient braking

A couple times a month, find a road without traffic and do 2-3 moderately hard stops from 60 MPH to 15 MPH

Speed back up to 60 MPH and drive about 3/4 mile between stops to cool the rotors and pads

Me neither, it's all generator braking. Brake checking didn't work in my case and I still have rusty rear rotors. It may have actually worn out the front, as they were replaced by the dealer under a maint. plan. It was a surprise to me. Maybe I'll get new back brakes out of the deal too. I'm resigned to it. Rusty rotors for life.

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