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F-150 Fog Lamp Switch and Wire Harness Installed in Maverick - DIY
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yep imagined that lolStill 6 & 7 on the BCM
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I wonder why they show ‘early’ and ‘late” production boxes. The Lobo didn’t come until Job 2. Unless there is some future changes coming.wiring diagram for 2025 Ford Maverick
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OP
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well quick update today i was working on a 2025 i dont remember the model but i seen the wires are on the front bumper harness for the fog lights . But once i enable it with forscan found that on the bcm they where missing . so i think all you guys are going to need its a wire from bcm to the front fender connector and you should be good.
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Just a head's up for anyone looking for the BCM pigtails. I ordered two from Rock Auto last week and they sent me 2 packs of 5 instead of 2 individual pigtails. Maybe a picking error on their part, but I'll take them as a score; makes up for some other errors on their part over the years
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That's a great idea put the link for ppl here.
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Search WT-1003 on the website. No guaranty on the quantity you're going to get shipped if you order 1 though
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Has anyone bought and installed the 24 diode dynamic fog light kit into a 25 Lariat or any of the 25's
The Diode Dynamics kit isn't designed for 2025, but I guess if you don't mind hacking them in it's doable: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/2025-lariat-fog-lights.66531/
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There's on here on Fredericksburg Va that did it . I just finished wire his fog lights this week.
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I finally got the DD SSC2 fog lights wired-up and tested last night. Thanks to Antonio and everyone on this thread. A couple of things that might help people in the future, that may or may not have been mentioned elsewhere. I recommend having your phone handy and take pictures for reference. Unfortunately, I did not take my own advice in this respect.
1) I found that it was much easier to snake the wiring harness from the BCM across the bottom of the dashboard and out the big grommet by the gas and brake pedals. I already had the harnesses for my ditch and bumper lights going through this grommet. I tried to feed through the grommet on the passenger side, but did not have much luck, and I didn't want to keep poking that area with all of the wires that control just about everything in the truck.
2) Releasing the connector for the BCM module is a bit tricky; I'm still not 100% sure how I got the lever to release, but I think I gently pried on the release tab with a tiny flat head screwdriver, and that was enough to release it (more on this later). Then, it was just a matter of swinging the release lever towards the passenger side, which essentially pushes the connector out of the BCM. Line up the hole on each side of the release with the pin that holds it to the body of the connector and release the lever with a small screwdriver. Be careful, this is a pretty delicate part, and it's somewhat "keyed", so you need to get it lined up just right.
3) The curved wire protector is kind of fiddly to remove. Just use a tiny flat head or pick at each corner and pry to release.
4) The red "pin holder" has two releases (more on this later). Use a small screwdriver to pry and release the first "lock" on either side from the open end with the wires. Then using a tiny screwdriver or pick, release the secondary lock on each side. Then you can work the red piece out of the connector a little bit at a time. The red piece will eventually slide right out, don't worry, the pins will stay attached to the main connector. I marked the red piece and the main connector with a marker so it would be easier to get the orientation right when reassembling.
5) Inserting the pins into ports 6 and 7 was the easiest part of the whole project. They'll only "easily" slide in one way and click into place. If you feel like you're forcing it, you are; turn the pin 90 degrees and try again.
6) Slide the red piece back into the connector. Be aware of the orientation. It's very important that you get the insert fully seated in the connector--it locks in two stages; this got me into trouble initially (see below).
7) Click the curved wire protector back into place, then reinstall the release lever in the proper orientation.
8) Insert the connector into the BCM module. As you push the connector, the locking lever will swing into position, and you can push it home to latch it in place.
Problem #1. So, when I initially installed the connector back onto the BCM module, it would not lock into place. While struggling with this, I broke the tabs odd of the release lever. Everything seemed to be making a good connection, so I went ahead and did all of the FORScan programming and tested for functionality. Everything seemed to be working fine, but I noticed that the LED "eyebrows" (Lariat) were not shutting off. A quick test that I've learned over the years is to double tap the lock button on the key fob. If the horn doesn't honk, there's a problem.
Back under the dash. I pulled the connector off again and realized that the red insert wasn't fully inserted--the two stage locking got me.
Problem #2. When I was working with the red insert, I broke one of the tabs off, but was able to get everything to lock together despite the additional carnage. I reinstalled the connector back onto the BCM module and tested 100%.
I'm going to try and see if I can get a replacement connector and rob the broken parts at some point. Hopefully Antonio can help me with a part number.
Hopefully this will help anybody looking to do this. I'll get some pictures up eventually.
Mike
1) I found that it was much easier to snake the wiring harness from the BCM across the bottom of the dashboard and out the big grommet by the gas and brake pedals. I already had the harnesses for my ditch and bumper lights going through this grommet. I tried to feed through the grommet on the passenger side, but did not have much luck, and I didn't want to keep poking that area with all of the wires that control just about everything in the truck.
2) Releasing the connector for the BCM module is a bit tricky; I'm still not 100% sure how I got the lever to release, but I think I gently pried on the release tab with a tiny flat head screwdriver, and that was enough to release it (more on this later). Then, it was just a matter of swinging the release lever towards the passenger side, which essentially pushes the connector out of the BCM. Line up the hole on each side of the release with the pin that holds it to the body of the connector and release the lever with a small screwdriver. Be careful, this is a pretty delicate part, and it's somewhat "keyed", so you need to get it lined up just right.
3) The curved wire protector is kind of fiddly to remove. Just use a tiny flat head or pick at each corner and pry to release.
4) The red "pin holder" has two releases (more on this later). Use a small screwdriver to pry and release the first "lock" on either side from the open end with the wires. Then using a tiny screwdriver or pick, release the secondary lock on each side. Then you can work the red piece out of the connector a little bit at a time. The red piece will eventually slide right out, don't worry, the pins will stay attached to the main connector. I marked the red piece and the main connector with a marker so it would be easier to get the orientation right when reassembling.
5) Inserting the pins into ports 6 and 7 was the easiest part of the whole project. They'll only "easily" slide in one way and click into place. If you feel like you're forcing it, you are; turn the pin 90 degrees and try again.
6) Slide the red piece back into the connector. Be aware of the orientation. It's very important that you get the insert fully seated in the connector--it locks in two stages; this got me into trouble initially (see below).
7) Click the curved wire protector back into place, then reinstall the release lever in the proper orientation.
8) Insert the connector into the BCM module. As you push the connector, the locking lever will swing into position, and you can push it home to latch it in place.
Problem #1. So, when I initially installed the connector back onto the BCM module, it would not lock into place. While struggling with this, I broke the tabs odd of the release lever. Everything seemed to be making a good connection, so I went ahead and did all of the FORScan programming and tested for functionality. Everything seemed to be working fine, but I noticed that the LED "eyebrows" (Lariat) were not shutting off. A quick test that I've learned over the years is to double tap the lock button on the key fob. If the horn doesn't honk, there's a problem.
Back under the dash. I pulled the connector off again and realized that the red insert wasn't fully inserted--the two stage locking got me.
Problem #2. When I was working with the red insert, I broke one of the tabs off, but was able to get everything to lock together despite the additional carnage. I reinstalled the connector back onto the BCM module and tested 100%.
I'm going to try and see if I can get a replacement connector and rob the broken parts at some point. Hopefully Antonio can help me with a part number.
Hopefully this will help anybody looking to do this. I'll get some pictures up eventually.
Mike
50 Pin BCM Connector looks like it might be:
C2280E 50 Pin Female - TE 2287277-1, TE Internal Description: 50 POS, MIXED, REC HSG, ASSY
https://www.te.com/en/product-2287277-1.html, Female Terminal 2035334-6.
Generation Y Connector System
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/2287277-1?qs=YCa/AAYMW039oZOMcPb5Ug==
TE Data Sheet https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/9/ENG_SS_108_94782_B-3135574.pdf
https://connectorexperts.com/i-31646515-cet5011.html 8/2/2025
C2280E 50 Pin Female - TE 2287277-1, TE Internal Description: 50 POS, MIXED, REC HSG, ASSY
https://www.te.com/en/product-2287277-1.html, Female Terminal 2035334-6.
Generation Y Connector System
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/2287277-1?qs=YCa/AAYMW039oZOMcPb5Ug==
TE Data Sheet https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/9/ENG_SS_108_94782_B-3135574.pdf
https://connectorexperts.com/i-31646515-cet5011.html 8/2/2025
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