Will Remote starting hybrid maverick turn on the engine ?

[The Real Maverick]

I remembered reading something about an electric heater awhile back and found it:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ybrid-have-the-supplemental-heater-for.57584/

Is that BS?

Kind of. Since it almost never comes on.
The electric booster heater only comes on in rare cases when the gas engine running can't make enough heat alone.

My point is, the gas engine has to be running first, and has to be running at the same time as the booster heater.

There is no electric only heater. You must use gasoline. Or rarely, gasoline plus electric booster heater.

Sponsored

 

[Master Blaster]

No. It does not work like that. You are mistaken.

Gasoline engine provides the cabin air heat. No gasoline burned, no heated air. Only the heated seats and/or wheel operate independent of the gasoline engine. The "booster heater" only comes on in rare situations if the gasoline alone being burned is not enough. It never comes out without the gasoline engine.

Nope. There is an electric heater inline on the hybrid to handle the situation. Put on the max heat button and note that you have heated air while the engine is cold. After the battery is down to minimum charge the gasoline engine starts up. I wonder if your battery is always depleted, causing the engine to fire up almost immediately to recharge it. Either that or your electric heater is broken.

I remembered reading something about an electric heater awhile back and found it:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ybrid-have-the-supplemental-heater-for.57584/

Is that BS?

Nope, it works. I don't think that some owners know where the max-heat button is.

Kind of. Since it almost never comes on.
The electric booster heater only comes on in rare cases when the gas engine running can't make enough heat alone.

My point is, the gas engine has to be running first, and has to be running at the same time as the booster heater.

There is no electric only heater. You must use gasoline. Or rarely, gasoline plus electric booster heater.

Nope. The power comes from the battery, not the engine. The battery and converter heat also provides some heat. If your battery is low then the engine kicks on.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Nope. There is an electric heater inline on the hybrid to handle the situation. Put on the max heat button and note that you have heated air while the engine is cold. After the battery is down to minimum charge the gasoline engine starts up. I wonder if your battery is always depleted, causing the engine to fire up almost immediately to recharge it. Either that or your electric heater is broken.

Nope, it works. I don't think that some owners know where the max-heat button is.

Nope. The power comes from the battery, not the engine. The battery and converter heat also provides some heat. If your battery is low then the engine kicks on.

What model year do you have?

YOU ARE FOR SURE WRONG about 2022's.

I don't have a 23 or 24 or 25 but I'd really doubt that Ford changed the operating strategy that they themselves published.

 

[HeyBales]

Looks like the bar is pretty high temps (or low?) for the PTC heater turning on.
What is highest temp setting, I guess I've never seen if like 85 limit?
At least fan doesn't have to be maxed out it seems, dislike fast cool air, rather have slower and hotter.
From this - should be pretty easy to kick on. I'm testing after work. Generator motor should have no load to provide at idle except fans.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...the-supplemental-heater-for.57584/post-972978

From @BlueSpec1 in above thread:

Electric Booster Heater Operation
The electric booster heater ensures that the passenger compartment can be quickly warmed up when ambient temperatures are low.
It is a heater element made up of ceramic resistors that is mounted in the climate control housing.
It directly heats the airflow into the passenger compartment rapidly in the case of low ambient temperatures.
The current is switched via three electric booster heater relays located in the BJB / BCMC.
...
Electric booster heater operating parameters:
• Engine is running
• HVAC controls have been switched to the highest temperature setting
• Engine coolant temperature is below approximately 75°C (167°F)
• Ambient air temperature is below approximately 12°C (53.6°F)
• Sufficient generator capacity is available

The electric booster heater is deactivated when an engine coolant temperature of approximately 85°C (185°F) or an ambient air temperature of approximately 15°C (59°F) is exceeded.

Fuses in BJB # 4, 7, 9

 

[The Real Maverick]

Yup. Some people think wishful thinking excuses them from step one: ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING.

 

[Rob911]

I remote start my 2023 hybrid XLT all the time in the winter and summer using mostly my keyfob but also the app. Keyfob has really good range. no issues with it not starting every time.

Regardless of the HVAC settings, the heater comes on in the winter and so does the heated seats and steering wheel. In the summer the AC comes on.

Obviously, never ever ever start a vehicle while it is in an enclosed space. Even if it turns off after a few minute the CO2 does not magically disappear until a closed space is vented. So if someone was to go into the garage later in the day and close the door behind them this could be very bad.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Looks like the bar is pretty high temps (or low?) for the PTC heater turning on.
What is highest temp setting, I guess I've never seen if like 85 limit?
At least fan doesn't have to be maxed out it seems, dislike fast cool air, rather have slower and hotter.
From this - should be pretty easy to kick on. I'm testing after work. Generator motor should have no load to provide at idle except fans.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...the-supplemental-heater-for.57584/post-972978

From @BlueSpec1 in above thread:

Electric Booster Heater Operation
The electric booster heater ensures that the passenger compartment can be quickly warmed up when ambient temperatures are low.
It is a heater element made up of ceramic resistors that is mounted in the climate control housing.
It directly heats the airflow into the passenger compartment rapidly in the case of low ambient temperatures.
The current is switched via three electric booster heater relays located in the BJB / BCMC.
...
Electric booster heater operating parameters:
• Engine is running
• HVAC controls have been switched to the highest temperature setting
• Engine coolant temperature is below approximately 75°C (167°F)
• Ambient air temperature is below approximately 12°C (53.6°F)
• Sufficient generator capacity is available

The electric booster heater is deactivated when an engine coolant temperature of approximately 85°C (185°F) or an ambient air temperature of approximately 15°C (59°F) is exceeded.

Fuses in BJB # 4, 7, 9

Note: in my hybrid lariat there is a HI and a Low setting high being next click past 85°F, low is next click below (65°F?). Either Hi or Low setting insures the ice will be on.

 

[HeyBales]

Note: in my hybrid lariat there is a HI and a Low setting high being next click past 85°F, low is next click below (65°F?). Either Hi or Low setting insures the ice will be on.

Finally got to test it - never went to max modes before.

But that was easy to kick the PTC heater on.
1 morning ICE kicked on anyway, low fan and max heat, took about 45 sec to feel the heat. Other morning I kicked ICE on, same thing.
Both times well below 50.
By the time I was driving, and down my long hill street, engine was still no where near high enough to cause it to kick off, not until on the highway near the end did the DCDC Hi Amps finally drop from 45 to normal 20, with coolant temps higher.

I sure would have appreciated this setup on the window ice scrapping mornings!
Max heat on defrost slower fan - 5 min warmup easily would have helped.
5 min warmup for just engine barely started to get enough heat to help melt it.

Well, at least I know now. Great way to use HVB or maybe just the generator motor since ICE running anyway. Compared to like AC draining the HVB until ICE turns on.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Finally got to test it - never went to max modes before.

But that was easy to kick the PTC heater on.
1 morning ICE kicked on anyway, low fan and max heat, took about 45 sec to feel the heat. Other morning I kicked ICE on, same thing.
Both times well below 50.
By the time I was driving, and down my long hill street, engine was still no where near high enough to cause it to kick off, not until on the highway near the end did the DCDC Hi Amps finally drop from 45 to normal 20, with coolant temps higher.

I sure would have appreciated this setup on the window ice scrapping mornings!
Max heat on defrost slower fan - 5 min warmup easily would have helped.
5 min warmup for just engine barely started to get enough heat to help melt it.

Well, at least I know now. Great way to use HVB or maybe just the generator motor since ICE running anyway. Compared to like AC draining the HVB until ICE turns on.

So are you saying the booster heater draws 25 A @ 220 VDC or 5,500 watts?

If so, that sounds reasonable. My Chevy Bolt EV heater would use 6000 watts on high setting.

Ergo, the HV battery is only able to power the heater for 1 or 2 minutes, therefore the need for the gas engine to spin the generator.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Finally got to test it - never went to max modes before.

But that was easy to kick the PTC heater on.
1 morning ICE kicked on anyway, low fan and max heat, took about 45 sec to feel the heat. Other morning I kicked ICE on, same thing.
Both times well below 50.
By the time I was driving, and down my long hill street, engine was still no where near high enough to cause it to kick off, not until on the highway near the end did the DCDC Hi Amps finally drop from 45 to normal 20, with coolant temps higher.

I sure would have appreciated this setup on the window ice scrapping mornings!
Max heat on defrost slower fan - 5 min warmup easily would have helped.
5 min warmup for just engine barely started to get enough heat to help melt it.

Well, at least I know now. Great way to use HVB or maybe just the generator motor since ICE running anyway. Compared to like AC draining the HVB until ICE turns on.

The auxillary heater has to pull from the generator until the HVB is warmed up to get amperage it needs. I don't know if the cabin auxillary heater is on a 40 or 60 amp fuze but I think from heat it puts out probably one of the 60. I wonder how hot over the 85°F Hi will heat. Also what dc voltage is fed to it?
Also with ice on and temp set to LOW that allows max amps from Gen through DCDC to compressor (maybe 3ph DC for efficiency with the Generator being 3 ph perhaps the DCDC would not even have to smooth the DC if the compressor was 3 phase also, which I believe it is. dunno).

 

[HeyBales]

So are you saying the booster heater draws 25 A @ 220 VDC or 5,500 watts?

If so, that sounds reasonable. My Chevy Bolt EV heater would use 6000 watts on high setting.

Ergo, the HV battery is only able to power the heater for 1 or 2 minutes, therefore the need for the gas engine to spin the generator.

I'm wondering if they think a flat dashboard could have open liquids placed on it. Are there any 220V circuits in the cabin? You'll see what I mean from the charts.

Interesting test last night - took home flattish route to get some good EV miles, but noticed after traffic stop a normal easy place for it still had ICE on. Realized temp still set to HI.
Lowered to 75 and ICE immediately off and full blue battery bar popped up. So PTC use kept ICE on when it was ready to turn off. There's a gotcha for MPG.

Using HVB temp in log from the start - it was 34 F outside. Coolant Temp read 37 F. Considering a morning drive - they would have actually been the same. Log started with key to Acc mode.

I'll give a snippet idling in driveway, this is after the 12V battery amps dropped back to 10A - Coolant up to 48 F, HVB temp still the same. High enough for charging. (Just to note, during the higher 25A but still lowering to 15A to 12V battery, the DCDCLo A had an increase to 53A during time before dropping slightly. The 12V charging A is in the DCDC Low A figures.)

Then compare that with later after sitting at light after the highway, I turned off HI heat already, ECT still not high enough. So normal avg figures.

Is the PTC on the 12V circuit?
Part of the 46-10= 36A being used?
Non-PTC is 27-2= 25A normal usage.
Fan speed the same low setting, no lights on/off difference, same radio on, Park vs Drive is it.
So increase of 11A on 12V circuit.

Or on the 220V circuit?
DCDC Hi seems to keep the HVB charging circuit out of the figures.
So 3.1 high to 2.1 normal.
So increase of 1A on 220V circuit.

Hmmm.

 

[HeyBales]

I guess there are some PIDS to track for the PTC heater regarding Voltage at least - but I sure thought I peeked at those already, and none had values, only Yes/No, True/False, Good/Fault type responses.
As we go into 50 & 60 F weekend - won't be testing that at least. Gotta carry my surfboard out to the corn fields!

And appears it is on the 12V system.

Coolant Heater A Operating Voltage and Power - what!?
Perhaps badly worded field name.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I guess there are some PIDS to track for the PTC heater regarding Voltage at least - but I sure thought I peeked at those already, and none had values, only Yes/No, True/False, Good/Fault type responses.
As we go into 50 & 60 F weekend - won't be testing that at least. Gotta carry my surfboard out to the corn fields!

And appears it is on the 12V system.

Coolant Heater A Operating Voltage and Power - what!?
Perhaps badly worded field name.

Ok looking at the list and the prior post showing the 10-11 volt drop on 12 volt circuit along with the PID= **...**PTC Heater 12V Battery voltage supply and that PID= **... _HI_V_OUTRNG-PTC Heater High Voltage. The PTC has an inner ring heater for light heating and an Outer Ring High Voltage heater for when temp is set to HI. ???

 

[HeyBales]

Ok looking at the list and the prior post showing the 10-11 volt drop on 12 volt circuit along with the PID= **...**PTC Heater 12V Battery voltage supply and that PID= **... _HI_V_OUTRNG-PTC Heater High Voltage. The PTC has an inner ring heater for light heating and an Outer Ring High Voltage heater for when temp is set to HI. ???

Did a better PID search. PTC1, 2, & 3.

Combined with 3 fuses stated for the Aux heater, 2 x 40 and 1 x 60 (center and edge vents?).

Also confirmed - none of the PIDS give a voltage or a figure, just true/false, yes/no.
Must be under another PID name, I'm sure it must be used.

I'm not sure how they would not show up under the DCDC Low Amp reading, since the fuses are in the engine fuse box on that circuit.
Here's a snippet of idling - high heat, to 75, and back to high.
Only a 12-13 A increase?
Though 220 side 1.1 A increase too, and HVB SOC and current isn't the pull.
So to the point of an outer ring for high heat?
Wasn't actually that cold out, and engine a tad warmed up, ECT at 123 F already. So perhaps it's adjusting for temps being seen instead of going full bore.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Did a better PID search. PTC1, 2, & 3.

Combined with 3 fuses stated for the Aux heater, 2 x 40 and 1 x 60 (center and edge vents?).

Also confirmed - none of the PIDS give a voltage or a figure, just true/false, yes/no.
Must be under another PID name, I'm sure it must be used.

I'm not sure how they would not show up under the DCDC Low Amp reading, since the fuses are in the engine fuse box on that circuit.
Here's a snippet of idling - high heat, to 75, and back to high.
Only a 12-13 A increase?
Though 220 side 1.1 A increase too, and HVB SOC and current isn't the pull.
So to the point of an outer ring for high heat?
Wasn't actually that cold out, and engine a tad warmed up, ECT at 123 F already. So perhaps it's adjusting for temps being seen instead of going full bore.

I expect full bore draw would be only before other heat available. Maybe the generator current is bypassing the dcdc low reading increase with that reading being only HVB provided current to provide voltage control for the smoothing of the 3 phase generated current. This is all way outside my pay grade, etc. would the 3 ph dc even have to be smoothed for the heater?

Sponsored