Zero-modification custom built square Subwoofer for under rear seats

[blackb13]

Cubic feet: (8.5-1) * (15-1) * (7.25-1) = 761.25 / (12^3) = 0.44 ct ft.

I got an internal volume of 0.38 when you subtract the 1/2" wood.

Nice work though! Looks good.

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[ardjr20]

I got an internal volume of 0.38 when you subtract the 1/2" wood.

Nice work though! Looks good.

Yes that’s correct. On that Calc I forgot to actually subtract the 1 on the last number.

 

[azmotoxxx]

Here is mine, fits clean. This is a Hybrid.

 

[colinl]

Here is mine, fits clean. This is a Hybrid.

Nice, what woofer is that?

And it's hard to tell for sure but is your box very.. not box shaped? I think it would need to be tapered on top and if it's as far center as the pic seems to show it would have to have a very interesting shape on the bottom. Is it fiberglass?

 

[ardjr20]

Here is mine, fits clean. This is a Hybrid.

10” sub and your box is shaped like a trapezoid? How much volume did you need?

What 4x6s did you use? What adapter did you use for this? I would like to go to 5.25s in the rear pillar but I doubt there will be enough room. Any details would be great.

I can confirm the 4X6 speakers do fit. For the Skars you have to drill your own mounting holes and they go in with no problem. The adapter worked for connecting to the factory harness but the other end where you would slide onto the new speaker and crimp did not because they were too small. So I just cut them and soldered to the speaker and it worked without any issues.

 

[Gullzway]

Is there a harness made that can be hooked up behind the seat (I have the B&O) and then just power to the battery and ground?

I have some 10" subs & Amp laying around, but mine has enough bass that anything requiring wiring to the head unit is not worth it for me.

 

[colinl]

Is there a harness made that can be hooked up behind the seat (I have the B&O) and then just power to the battery and ground?

I have some 10" subs & Amp laying around, but mine has enough bass that anything requiring wiring to the head unit is not worth it for me.

If you have a spare amp that accepts speaker level input and can auto turn on based on that, you can tap into the speaker line for the B&O sub. If you really want to get into that and ask more questions it's probably better in a separate thread.

However if you need to convert to line input make sure you get one that has a remote power-on wire. Kicker makes one for sure.

 

[azmotoxxx]

It’s a JL audio shallow mount sub, but it still hits hard. It is not a fiberglass box.

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/vd-8-inch-car-subwoofer

This is the one I bought. It’s a shallow mount 8”.

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-1200-1d-car-amplifier

This is the amp I’m using.

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-1200-1d-car-amplifier

I did the same thing, here is my first box, but im now building a lower box and actually going to add a 2nd 8" sub to other side. the shallow mount sub does sit high- this box was i believe 8.5 high, with my grill when i place seat down it just click on its own. lol I tapped into rear speakers with a recoil LOC off amazon for $25 but might switch on the the JL audio one.. Love the skar sub

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

I got an internal volume of 0.38 when you subtract the 1/2" wood.

Nice work though! Looks good.

sub need .34 per skar site so thats fine as well

 

[Sonicaceman]

I based my box exactly off what you did here. However I get very little bass running my kicker cxa400 amp which is 1ohm stable and I have the same speaker wired for 1ohm which should push 400+ rms. What could I be missing?

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