Vibrating when turning, unsure as to cause

[Nick2025MavXL]

Ok this is going to be a bit confusing… went out to get food with the 25 2.0L XL Mav. On the way home when making moderate turns it felt and sounded like my front left wheel was going over a rumble strip for the 15 mile drive.

Speed, acceleration, deceleration, did not affect it. This was consistent under all circumstances. It didn’t happen with small turns, or very tight ones, just moderate turns such as exit ramps or at the beginning of a tighter turn.

Took it out for a test drive 30 minutes later, nothing… it’s completely back to normal.

My best guess is that it could have been a sticking break caliper (heat was at 91 degrees outdoors but there was no unusually heavy break usage during the trip). There’s also the possibility of CV axle, bearings, alignment, AWD system, or so on.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what the issue could be or has also experienced this.

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[matmondro]

*brake*

Would be a very uncommon situation to have your brake caliper sticking.

My initial thought would be your wheel bearing, but that would be noticeable at almost all speeds, turning, etc.

 

[Traveling Man]

Ok this is going to be a bit confusing… went out to get food with the 25 2.0L XL Mav. On the way home when making moderate turns it felt and sounded like my front left wheel was going over a rumble strip for the 15 mile drive.

Speed, acceleration, deceleration, did not affect it. This was consistent under all circumstances. It didn’t happen with small turns, or very tight ones, just moderate turns such as exit ramps or at the beginning of a tighter turn.

Took it out for a test drive 30 minutes later, nothing… it’s completely back to normal.

My best guess is that it could have been a sticking break caliper (heat was at 91 degrees outdoors but there was no unusually heavy break usage during the trip). There’s also the possibility of CV axle, bearings, alignment, AWD system, or so on.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what the issue could be or has also experienced this.

CV axle I had the same on back only when slow turns

 

[Timothyd]

Ok this is going to be a bit confusing… went out to get food with the 25 2.0L XL Mav. On the way home when making moderate turns it felt and sounded like my front left wheel was going over a rumble strip for the 15 mile drive.

Speed, acceleration, deceleration, did not affect it. This was consistent under all circumstances. It didn’t happen with small turns, or very tight ones, just moderate turns such as exit ramps or at the beginning of a tighter turn.

Took it out for a test drive 30 minutes later, nothing… it’s completely back to normal.

My best guess is that it could have been a sticking break caliper (heat was at 91 degrees outdoors but there was no unusually heavy break usage during the trip). There’s also the possibility of CV axle, bearings, alignment, AWD system, or so on.

Wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what the issue could be or has also experienced this.

Typical symptom of a CV Joint. It works mostly when you're turning.

 

[JonP_Maine]

Voting CV joint

 

[Robot-Wrangler]

My '25 Hybrid AWD Lariat is at the FORD dealer getting several bugs fixed. One of which is a groaning noise coming from the rear while turning slowly.

I'm pretty sure the next winter when this truck leaves me stranded several times with a dead 12v battery I'll lose interest in it. (hello jump pack)

Lately, it seems that FORD trucks have too many gremlins for my liking. I almost bought a 2025 Lightning vs the Maverick.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

Voting CV joint

Same here either torn cv joint boot and/or worn cv joint in that order. The side of the axle closest to the wheel is the likely culprit. OP first needs to check the front boots wheel side to see if they are torn or if there is grease on the inside of the back of the wheel. While under there also check the side closest to transmission while at it and if an AWD need to check the rear CV joint boots. If they are lucky it will be torn a boot and minor enough that it can be patched and not need to be replaced. Usually the rule of thumb is test the grease when the boot is torn. If the grease feels smooth with no grit the CV joint should be fine.

 

[HeyBales]

If making noise on turns - a torn boot can't be the only issue.

Mine was not a torn boot, only a minor show of grease on axle - they replaced the whole axle.
Now, it was warranty work, and slow winter schedule perhaps - but they didn't offer or mention only replacing the boot, which I'm sure takes longer anyway since they wouldn't be using split boots, if even available yet.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

If making noise on turns - a torn boot can't be the only issue.

Mine was not a torn boot, only a minor show of grease on axle - they replaced the whole axle.
Now, it was warranty work, and slow winter schedule perhaps - but they didn't offer or mention only replacing the boot, which I'm sure takes longer anyway since they wouldn't be using split boots, if even available yet.

That is standard practice for most dealer/repair shops. They'd rather replace the whole cv axle and call it a day than repair the axle and have it come back in with other issues and a customer complaining they screwed up the job.

If it isn't under warranty this is what you'd need to do to repair the boot assuming the cv joint is still good.
If the tear is small enough you can patch it with superglue and if larger flex seal paste. Before sealing it you need a grease needle and pump enough grease into it until starts pushing out the old grease. If the grease is clean then patch it, first the tear then the needle hole you made. If the grease is gritty then it replace the CV joint or whole axle instead.

If you can't find a tear but do find grease on the wheel still pump it full of grease and if the grease is good and it still doesn't show up a tear anywhere put a hose clamp on the wheel side of the boot instead and shaft side also if inclined.

 

[HeyBales]

That is standard practice for most dealer/repair shops. They'd rather replace the whole cv axle and call it a day than repair the axle and have it come back in with other issues and a customer complaining they screwed up the job.

If it isn't under warranty this is what you'd need to do to repair the boot assuming the cv joint is still good.
If the tear is small enough you can patch it with superglue and if larger flex seal paste. Before sealing it you need a grease needle and pump enough grease into it until starts pushing out the old grease. If the grease is clean then patch it, first the tear then the needle hole you made. If the grease is gritty then it replace the CV joint or whole axle instead.

If you can't find a tear but do find grease on the wheel still pump it full of grease and if the grease is good and it still doesn't show up a tear anywhere pump hose clamp on the wheel side of the boot instead and shaft side also if inclined.

Yes. And while mine made no noise yet on corners, and barely a grease stain - mine might have been fine with even just the boot moved, CVJ clean up, regrease, and boot properly attached.

But OP's is making noise on turns.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

Yes. And while mine made no noise yet on corners, and barely a grease stain - mine might have been fine with even just the boot moved, CVJ clean up, regrease, and boot properly attached.

But OP's is making noise on turns.

The type of noise also matters. That fact it is only doing it while turned rules out a worn wheel bearing. When CV joints "hum" that is usually indicative of not enough grease in the boot due to a tear or some other reason. As long is it is also not vibrating, clunking the CV joint is probably still okay. Like said the simple test is to regrease the joint. As long as the old grease is still good and it stops doing it then that is the answer. If it continues then you got bigger problems than a cv joint and it is time to replace the whole cv axle.

 

[HeyBales]

With a 25MY likely still under warranty - any testing is unlikely if not a simple driving test action.

 

[jonshep]

From my experience, I would say CV joint. But...there is a recall for lose ball joints, so check your VIN, that won't cost anything. My F150 made a turn vibration and that was from lose lug nuts. I had some tire work and tech just didn't get them all torque to proper setting. That won't cost anything to check. After that you are on your own.

 

[Robot-Wrangler]

Update on groaning noise while turning and reduced brake and thud from rear while braking around 30mph. Dealer tech has had my truck all week and claims nothing is wrong and no noise.

The Service Writer drove it and wants to take it for a longer drive. I explained it groans instantly while turning tightly. They are repairing the 120vA/C and performing software recall for the trailer control module.

The 30mph to 20mph braking/thud issue takes about three miles to reoccur. I don't feel entirely safe with electronic brakes in a vehicle full of software and hardware bugs and glitches.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

Update on groaning noise while turning and reduced brake and thud from rear while braking around 30mph. Dealer tech has had my truck all week and claims nothing is wrong and no noise.

The Service Writer drove it and wants to take it for a longer drive. I explained it groans instantly while turning tightly. They are repairing the 120vA/C and performing software recall for the trailer control module.

The 30mph to 20mph braking/thud issue takes about three miles to reoccur. I don't feel entirely safe with electronic brakes in a vehicle full of software and hardware bugs and glitches.

If that groaning noise is originating in the rear when turning then that usually is indicative of a bad RDU unit. Your rear brake if I had to guess is a sticky caliper. The first and most obvious to check visually is the brake clip on the outside of the caliper. Next is the caliper slide pins being either worn or dirty.

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