Trailer Hitch Class bed extender question

[mh1926]

Have a 23 Hybrid with the factory installed hitch. I got a bed extender from Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-extender-69650.html. It says it needs a class III hitch. Is that what the factory installed hitch is? The extender itself is fairly heavy so I don't want to damage the truck using it if it's not rated heavy enough for it. I'd be planning on using 2 kayaks with it, and a couple 2x4's from time to time so nothing really that heavy, but just concerned with the actual weight of the extender and how long it is, it's not supported with wheels like a trailer. Thanks

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[Maverick2022XL]

The only important factors here are the hitch reciever tube should be 2 inches and don't overload the extender past it's weight capacity or the tongue weight rating for your truck, whichever is the lower of the 2. Tongue weight of the Maverick is 400 lbs. See page 44 for hitch reciever weight capacity.

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...pdf/2023-Ford-RV-and-Trailer-Towing-Guide.pdf

 

[Maverick2022XL]

That bed extender is very useful. I have the same one and have used it for long pieces of siding including James Hardie siding and pieces of lumber up to 16 ft long.

 

[acelee1895]

Have a 23 Hybrid with the factory installed hitch. I got a bed extender from Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-extender-69650.html. It says it needs a class III hitch. Is that what the factory installed hitch is? The extender itself is fairly heavy so I don't want to damage the truck using it if it's not rated heavy enough for it. I'd be planning on using 2 kayaks with it, and a couple 2x4's from time to time so nothing really that heavy, but just concerned with the actual weight of the extender and how long it is, it's not supported with wheels like a trailer. Thanks

I have the same one and have used it to carry two paddleboards. It works great for that. The hitch is rated to hold 400 lbs of tongue weight. As long as you stay within that and don't overload the bed with other stuff, you shouldn't have any issues. If you come close to the payload capacity and have the hitch extender, you will probably have a no so good time with the weight so far back and FWD

 

[Gray Goose]

Prior responses are good, but overlooked the fulcrum calculations. A typical receiver drawbar is about 8", so 400lbs rating is likely measured there. The extender (which I've used myself for many years and is awesome!) is about 54". Factoring in the fulcrum effect, 54/8 = 6.75 400/6.75 = 60 lbs
The extender will be about 9ft from the front of the bed, For a 10 foot kayak, 50% of the weight will be on the bed and 50% on the extender. 60/50% = 120 lbs total load. If the 2 kayaks or lumber is less than 120 lbs all is good.
With 16' material the majority of the weight will be on the extender. In that case load no more than 60 lbs.
More information about levers and fulcurms: https://ecampus.matc.edu/mihalj/scitech/unit1/levers/levers.htm

 

[SteveG]

I also used the Harbor Freight bed extender to haul two 10 foot kayaks in my 23 EB. I have the factory installed hitch. I had zero in the way of problems. I don't think they make a stronger hitch for passenger vehicles. The installed hitch should carry anything your vehicle can tow.

 

[mh1926]

Thanks for the responses. I tried different set ups with the 2 kayaks and actually don't even need the extender. I can load each on their sides so they form a vshape in the bed, then run rope through the scupper holes and secure to the tie down points (one on the hitch and 2 in the bed). Did a run to the lake yesterday (10 mi each way) and was very secure, no shifting or anything. I could use the extender if I wanted to, it does seem sturdy and very well made, but it's just an extra step that I now can skip.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

Thanks for the responses. I tried different set ups with the 2 kayaks and actually don't even need the extender. I can load each on their sides so they form a vshape in the bed, then run rope through the scupper holes and secure to the tie down points (one on the hitch and 2 in the bed). Did a run to the lake yesterday (10 mi each way) and was very secure, no shifting or anything. I could use the extender if I wanted to, it does seem sturdy and very well made, but it's just an extra step that I now can skip.

Depending how you use the truck, all it takes is one trip to a Lowes or Home Depot that the extender is the difference between paying for them to deliver the materials vs. you transporting them. By me anyways they usually charge a minimum of $89 to send the delivery truck. The extender pays for itself and saves you money.

 

[tom_tucker]

Thanks for the responses. I tried different set ups with the 2 kayaks and actually don't even need the extender. I can load each on their sides so they form a vshape in the bed, then run rope through the scupper holes and secure to the tie down points (one on the hitch and 2 in the bed). Did a run to the lake yesterday (10 mi each way) and was very secure, no shifting or anything. I could use the extender if I wanted to, it does seem sturdy and very well made, but it's just an extra step that I now can skip.

I agree. Unless your boat is over 12', you probably don't need an extender. I have a 10', 11' and 14' inflatable SUPs and kayaks. Only the 14' would really need the extender. I put that one on the roof rack and bed cap.

I'm ready, willing and able to buy a bed extender, but I have yet to have the need for one.

 

[gwrace14651]

Several people on here have installed the Elevate bed rack. Combine that with a roof rack and your all set. Should easily support the weight of a couple of kayaks.

 

[wax87]

Prior responses are good, but overlooked the fulcrum calculations. A typical receiver drawbar is about 8", so 400lbs rating is likely measured there. The extender (which I've used myself for many years and is awesome!) is about 54". Factoring in the fulcrum effect, 54/8 = 6.75 400/6.75 = 60 lbs
The extender will be about 9ft from the front of the bed, For a 10 foot kayak, 50% of the weight will be on the bed and 50% on the extender. 60/50% = 120 lbs total load. If the 2 kayaks or lumber is less than 120 lbs all is good.
With 16' material the majority of the weight will be on the extender. In that case load no more than 60 lbs.
More information about levers and fulcurms: https://ecampus.matc.edu/mihalj/scitech/unit1/levers/levers.htm

Based on this:

Class 2: If you drive a minivan or have a car or crossover that is on the bigger or more heavy-duty side, you likely have a Class 2 hitch. Class 2 hitches have 1-1/4-inch receiver sizes, and have a GTW capacity of up to 3,500 lbs. and a TW capacity of up to 350 lbs.

Class 3: If you drive a crossover, van, SUV or truck, you likely have a Class 3 hitch. Class 3 hitches have 2-inch receiver sizes, and have a GTW capacity of up to 8,000 lbs. and a TW capacity up to 800 lbs. They also have a WD capacity of up to 12,000 lbs. and WDTW capacity of up to 1,200 lbs.

and if the 4,000 lbs rating on the tow package Mavs uses the same hitch, I would say it would be a Class 3

 

[mh1926]

Depending how you use the truck, all it takes is one trip to a Lowes or Home Depot that the extender is the difference between paying for them to deliver the materials vs. you transporting them. By me anyways they usually charge a minimum of $89 to send the delivery truck. The extender pays for itself and saves you money.

Absolutely agree and definetely keeping it. It wasn't very expensive and seems like it's good quality, I'm sure I'll use it sometime in the future.

Several people on here have installed the Elevate bed rack. Combine that with a roof rack and your all set. Should easily support the weight of a couple of kayaks.

That seems awfully expensive and a real pain the a** for just 2 kayaks. On an suv I had cross bars and jhooks for the kayaks and that was a major pain vs the mav where I just put it in the bed strap it down and go.

 

[SkeeterB]

I believe the hybrid tongue weight is only 200#s.

 

[realshelby]

Fancy calculations are good. But the fact that several owners are using the same product with similar loads is good too!
Don't overlook the common sense factor. Hard to get that calculated correctly with some people!

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