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Tow wiring harness- Do I really need a battery power connection?

getoffmylawn

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HI, about ready to finish my hitch install. Found a compete wiring harness in the box-o-parts with converter. It doesn't have a power line for the battery connection. I'll never use electric brakes, so do I really need it? Thanks
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Hot Runr Guy

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The battery connection is normally what powers the converter, not used for the electric braking circuit. Is it a Ford harness, Curt, or something else?

HRG
 
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getoffmylawn

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It's 'Hoppy' brand. No idea how old. I'm not finding any online references for it. I'm pretty sure it was designed for incandescent bulbs

Ford Maverick Tow wiring harness- Do I really need a battery power connection? Brake Converter
 

OleFordGuy

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You’ll probably be better off with the ford or curt harness in order to prevent issues and error codes thrown by the computer would be my guess
 

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It's 'Hoppy' brand. No idea how old. I'm not finding any online references for it. I'm pretty sure it was designed for incandescent bulbs
No need for that, the Maverick does not have amber turn signals. IMO, either get the Ford or Curt harness, or be willing to deal with electrical fault issues.

HRG
 

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getoffmylawn

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Will do. Thanks for your help.
 

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As to power supply, I installed the Curt unit and used the in-bed 12v power supply via an inexpensive matching (Amazon) plug. If my memory serves, the Curt is rated for 10 amps, the power supply 15. No codes or problems, though I have not towed with it yet. I found that the Curt "box" mounted in the driver side just below the tail light housing, and all wiring reached. There is only one wire that goes to the passenger side from the Curt unit, and the flat four plug reaches the hitch from that mount also.
 

A51Mav

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I recommend buying the Curt wire harness from etrailer. It’s like $100., but all plug and play. No cutting of wires except for ground.
 

SteveW12TCA

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As to power supply, I installed the Curt unit and used the in-bed 12v power supply via an inexpensive matching (Amazon) plug. If my memory serves, the Curt is rated for 10 amps, the power supply 15. No codes or problems, though I have not towed with it yet. I found that the Curt "box" mounted in the driver side just below the tail light housing, and all wiring reached. There is only one wire that goes to the passenger side from the Curt unit, and the flat four plug reaches the hitch from that mount also.
I was wondering about this. I purchased the Curt wiring harness to install a Putco light bar (which I haven't done yet). The Curt directions have you running a cable all the way to the battery. Was wondering why you couldn't use the in-bed 12 volt supply instead. Is this the same Curt unit you installed (wanting you to run it to the battery)? Thanks!
 

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The interesting thing is, the Ford instructions for their converter tell you to use the bed power pigtail for XL & Lariat, yet run to the battery for XLT. Go figure.

HRG
 

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getoffmylawn

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I'm going to get the Curt 'plug-n-play' harness. The leads for the rear lights are very light gauge, and trying to reliably splice those would be a bear. JimKivi, you're suggestion to use the bed power harness is great. And AutobahnSHO, my Ebay sell box is looking like my box-o-parts box. I gotta do something. Thanks to all.
 

GPSMan

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The interesting thing is, the Ford instructions for their converter tell you to use the bed power pigtail for XL & Lariat, yet run to the battery for XLT. Go figure.

HRG
Interesting. An in the first did you catch the "use the 12 v AC (Alternating Current) outlet???

Believe it or not, LED light fixtures run on AC so they DON't have to fuss with polarity. LED's are inherently polarized so this eliminated issues with mass production and installation of LED arrays. They flicker, just like fluorescent, but if at 50 or 60 Hz your eyes won't usually catch it.

Here it is probably just a typo.
It is my belief you could tap either/or.

It is also my belief manual writing is boring and tedious and the lowest / newest employee gets tasked with writing it.
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