Super Easy Flat Tow Setup w/ Roadmaster Nighthawk, Demco Stay-in-Play Duo SBS

[BradnChristine]

Thanks for being a guinea pig.
You are maintaining a much better attitude than I would!!!
Let us know how it works out and maybe post a few photos ?
Regards,
Kathy

I didn't set out to be a guinea pig...but here I am! I am heading out on a 2500 mile trip next week and I really want to be towing the Maverick, I have hope and I think I'm heading into the home stretch! I've been collecting some pictures as I've gone along. I think removing the 4 vanes is the solution and it isn't destructive or irreversable. Pictures and an update tomorrow....

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[realshelby]

If you are in a big hurry, you probably want to consider the Blue Ox version with its challenges to make pretty...as well as its very wide tow points.

Been watching this closely. Not out of the question I will change to the Demco.

BUT...until then I want to again point out the Blue Ox has problems that they do NOT want to address!
Because the mounting points are so much wider than the Demco or Roadmaster, or about any typical baseplate. the towbar "bottoms out" where the side to side swivel is in a sharp turn. This could literally break the swivel. The answer would be a towbar with much longer legs. BUT EVEN BLUE OX WOULD NOT SAY THEIR LONGER VERSION TOWBAR WOULD NOT RUN OUT OF ROOM IN A TIGHT TURN!
I cannot recommend the Blue Ox under any circumstances for a Maverick due to this problem. Worse is that many might not realize they cannot turn sharp without binding this joint.

Anyone running a Blue Ox baseplate should hook up and take their motorhome to a location where you can make a very sharp turn. Get out and inspect the swivel joint for clearance.......
Mine was hitting just pulling out of the driveway...

 

[BradnChristine]

Been watching this closely. Not out of the question I will change to the Demco.

BUT...until then I want to again point out the Blue Ox has problems that they do NOT want to address!
Because the mounting points are so much wider than the Demco or Roadmaster, or about any typical baseplate. the towbar "bottoms out" where the side to side swivel is in a sharp turn. This could literally break the swivel. The answer would be a towbar with much longer legs. BUT EVEN BLUE OX WOULD NOT SAY THEIR LONGER VERSION TOWBAR WOULD NOT RUN OUT OF ROOM IN A TIGHT TURN!
I cannot recommend the Blue Ox under any circumstances for a Maverick due to this problem. Worse is that many might not realize they cannot turn sharp without binding this joint.

Anyone running a Blue Ox baseplate should hook up and take their motorhome to a location where you can make a very sharp turn. Get out and inspect the swivel joint for clearance.......
Mine was hitting just pulling out of the driveway...

Thanks for that info! First I've heard of that issue and reassures me Demco was the right choice, even with the difficulty.

I am so disappointed in Roadmaster. I've always used their products until now. I think all these companies rushed to market too fast. What you have to do to install a Roadmaster is terribly destructive and would likely cost a pile to try to repair the active shutter system with new parts and a LOT of labor if you wanted to restore the system. There is no reason why Roadmaster couldn't have done it Demco's way and push the bar out in front of the AS vanes. For that matter, if Demco would have used a thinner bar, they could have cleared the shutters and still gotten the fascia to fit.

Of course the BEST solution would be for Ford to option a tow package for a vehicle they tell us is flat-towable. To tow it absolutely requires a baseplate and Ford was in the best position to make one and make a lot of extra money for it. At this point, I'd pay $1500 or more for an installed Ford baseplate and light wiring!

 

[Dad]

Today's slow update:
I pulled the 4 vanes out with no trouble and nothing broke. I gave some consideration to replacing 2 of the vanes into the area that Ford removed, but decided just to leave the 3 vanes out on each side...the 2 that were behind the baseplate bar and Ford's removal which still is in compliance with the recall.

Got the baseplate installed with no extra washers, etc. I test fit the fascia back on and it seems to fit fine, although 2 vertical "bars" in the lower grill were tight. I may have to shave a bit off...or they might just push over and fit fine.

Then I tried to follow the instructions to reinstall the PAD. A lot of revision needed in the instruction manual, which I have sent to Demco. One example directs you to use a 3/8" drill to drill out a hole for a 7/16" bolt. Um...NO, that's not how that works. The reinstall instructions need to be changed. There is a good place to remount it that doesn't involve torqueing a bolt assembly to 50 ft-lbs when included in the assembly is the plastic base of the PAD.

Now that I found a good place for the PAD and mounted it, I will have to take it back off in order to torque the upper brace with locktite. I saved all the torqueing and locktite for last, after I was satisfied that it would fit. I told Demco that the PAD replacement should be LAST on the install...not before the torqueing.

It has been a struggle, but I think I am near the finish line, and Demco has been receptive to all our info. I still feel this is the best of the three choices because it is all reversable and won't leave damaged shutter system or holes in the fascia. I am getting tired of being a trailblazer though, and I want my truck back on the road!

Hopefully tomorrow will see it back together with just the front wiring to terminate in connectors (breakaway switch and 6-pin socket).

"I am getting tired of being a trailblazer though, and I want my truck back on the road!" Yeah, no kidding!
I hope Demco realizes you are saving them a ton of money doing R & D for them.

 

[BradnChristine]

"I am getting tired of being a trailblazer though, and I want my truck back on the road!" Yeah, no kidding!
I hope Demco realizes you are saving them a ton of money doing R & D for them.

I pretty much pointed that out to them yesterday...and gave them an 8 point "edit" for their manual. Not sure if they have taken it in the spirit in which it was given...to be helpful for future...as I haven't gotten a response today. But honestly, their customer service guy has been helpful. He's as frustrated as we are. The engineer "is just having a hard time believing all of this" was his statement from a couple of days ago.

 

[Dad]

I pretty much pointed that out to them yesterday...and gave them an 8 point "edit" for their manual. Not sure if they have taken it in the spirit in which it was given...to be helpful for future...as I haven't gotten a response today. But honestly, their customer service guy has been helpful. He's as frustrated as we are. The engineer "is just having a hard time believing all of this" was his statement from a couple of days ago.

I'm sure you're aware that most companies even have a totally separate R&D department which is costly and yet, necessary. While most of us have no problem helping out, Demco will be making money once they implement your time and effort into their product. My unasked for advice: Speak to the owner, CEO, or whoever is in charge and point your reasons for some kind of compensation. Whatever the outcome, I cannot express enough how much your efforts in doing this and posting is appreciated. It is folks such as yourself that make this club fantastic and to which I turn to every morning to start my day. My take-away: Much more goodness in this world than evil.

 

[BradnChristine]

I'm sure you're aware that most companies even have a totally separate R&D department which is costly and yet, necessary. While most of us have no problem helping out, Demco will be making money once they implement your time and effort into their product. My unasked for advice: Speak to the owner, CEO, or whoever is in charge and point your reasons for some kind of compensation. Whatever the outcome, I cannot express enough how much your efforts in doing this and posting is appreciated. It is folks such as yourself that make this club fantastic and to which I turn to every morning to start my day. My take-away: Much more goodness in this world than evil.

Thanks for the very nice compliment. I got a TON of fantastic help from this group through the time I have been here. I ended up with the right truck from the right dealer with all the right options at the right price (with Private Offer) ONLY because of what I learned here. I need to try to pay a little back. I did drop the suggestion yesterday that perhaps a rebate of some amount would be reasonable. But in reality, that's not what I'm looking for. I'm more interested in the end result of a good towing solution for my and other Mavericks. Comparing the three options, removing 4 vanes that could be returned to service, isn't an awful thing.

Now I have to go figure out torque for the bolts, as Demco's "standard issue torque table" isn't the most helpful. The manual even refers to the one new bolt they provide as a:
"Bolt .438NC X 1.50 GR5 Hex"
instead of calling it the same thing as in the torque table:
"7/16" Grade 5 torque 50 ft/lbs"

Hopefully, the fascia will be back on by end of day1
'

 

[Dad]

Thanks for the very nice compliment. I got a TON of fantastic help from this group through the time I have been here. I ended up with the right truck from the right dealer with all the right options at the right price (with Private Offer) ONLY because of what I learned here. I need to try to pay a little back. I did drop the suggestion yesterday that perhaps a rebate of some amount would be reasonable. But in reality, that's not what I'm looking for. I'm more interested in the end result of a good towing solution for my and other Mavericks. Comparing the three options, removing 4 vanes that could be returned to service, isn't an awful thing.

Now I have to go figure out torque for the bolts, as Demco's "standard issue torque table" isn't the most helpful. The manual even refers to the one new bolt they provide as a:
"Bolt .438NC X 1.50 GR5 Hex"
instead of calling it the same thing as in the torque table:
"7/16" Grade 5 torque 50 ft/lbs"

Hopefully, the fascia will be back on by end of day1
'

Of course, I know you weren't pursuing compensation.
Yep, one has to wonder who writes up these manuals and Demco should know better if they are an American company. At least they are willing to listen to your recommendations. I'm sure all will turn out fine . . . you'll get your truck back and Demco will gift you a well-fitted baseplate. Look forward to your future posts when all is done.

 

[BradnChristine]

Of course, I know you weren't pursuing compensation.
Yep, one has to wonder who writes up these manuals and Demco should know better if they are an American company. At least they are willing to listen to your recommendations. I'm sure all will turn out fine . . . you'll get your truck back and Demco will gift you a well-fitted baseplate. Look forward to your future posts when all is done.

9/14/23 update. The baseplate is on...successfully...and it looks GREAT!

Today's work:
A. I torqued the baseplate bolts/nuts as follows (with the included blue locktite):
1. The 4 main, lower Ford M8 bolts are 30 ft-lbs per Ford's service manual.
2. Each upper support Z-bracket 7/16" bolt (provided by Demco) is 50 ft-lbs per Demco's manual.
3. The upper Z-backet that removes and reuses the Ford nut is torqued at 40 Ft-lbs. This was a guess...the bolt is in the middle between the other 2 sizes, and actually is designed for stability, and really isn't "pulled on".

B. I re-mounted the PAD on the front with a new bolt (don't do this before torquing/locktite process...it will be in the way). I used a nyloc nut so it doesn't vibrate off, and I don't want to take the fascia off and on again!

C. Then I mounted the top of the fascia assembly into the two clips, pulling the bundle of wires through the most convenient square. I finished by adding the 2 pushpins and the 4 10mm bolts across the top. Note: You DO want to have your light and brake wiring in place at this point. I used the 4 diode method for the taillights in the rear, running the wires under the under-liner and coming out in the area between the driver's side front wheel above the liner.

D. Then I should have ensured that the under-panel was properly woven into the bottom edge of the fascia. I did not, and so I had to unbolt 4 more torx screws later so that I could blend them together.

E. Then when I felt ready to commit, I pushed the fascia up to each fender and let the little clips in the middle latch themselves into place on each side.

F. Then re-install the 3- 10mm bolts on each side. Big note: If you followed eTrailer's good suggestion to add painter's tape on both edges (fascia and fender) to prevent accidental damage, be sure to take it off before putting all those 10mm bolts in...or plan on taking the bolts all loose again to get it off later (argh).

G. The front tow plate holes will be tight around the grids, so you will likely have to push the fascia back over them...I did not have to cut them at all. (Keep an eye on the bottom underpanel connection mentioned in D. above as you do this.)

H. Reinstall all those pushpins in the wheelwells, along with the 3 - 7mm screws on each side.

I did get myself blessed with a check engine light as I moved it out of the garage. I *think* it was due to my turning on the truck to test the rear lights with the front fascia off and unplugged. The message on FordPass was that there was an electrical concern with the outside air temperature sensor. I think I got it reset and cleared with my OBDii reader. I hope.

Now on to the 6 pin and the breakaway switch. But the Demco install is complete.

Today I received a message from Demco that the third, unknown person with a baseplate had NO issues at all and declared it to be an easy install without having to remove the 4 vanes from the active shutter. So either his truck is different or he didn't notice that the blades can't move if left in place.

I remain convined this is the best way to go, removing shutters or not.

 

[Dad]

9/14/23 update. The baseplate is on...successfully...and it looks GREAT!

Today's work:
A. I torqued the baseplate bolts/nuts as follows (with the included blue locktite):
1. The 4 main, lower Ford M8 bolts are 30 ft-lbs per Ford's service manual.
2. Each upper support Z-bracket 7/16" bolt (provided by Demco) is 50 ft-lbs per Demco's manual.
3. The upper Z-backet that removes and reuses the Ford nut is torqued at 40 Ft-lbs. This was a guess...the bolt is in the middle between the other 2 sizes, and actually is designed for stability, and really isn't "pulled on".

B. I re-mounted the PAD on the front with a new bolt (don't do this before torquing/locktite process...it will be in the way). I used a nyloc nut so it doesn't vibrate off, and I don't want to take the fascia off and on again!

C. Then I mounted the top of the fascia assembly into the two clips, pulling the bundle of wires through the most convenient square. I finished by adding the 2 pushpins and the 4 10mm bolts across the top. Note: You DO want to have your light and brake wiring in place at this point. I used the 4 diode method for the taillights in the rear, running the wires under the under-liner and coming out in the area between the driver's side front wheel above the liner.

D. Then I should have ensured that the under-panel was properly woven into the bottom edge of the fascia. I did not, and so I had to unbolt 4 more torx screws later so that I could blend them together.

E. Then when I felt ready to commit, I pushed the fascia up to each fender and let the little clips in the middle latch themselves into place on each side.

F. Then re-install the 3- 10mm bolts on each side. Big note: If you followed eTrailer's good suggestion to add painter's tape on both edges (fascia and fender) to prevent accidental damage, be sure to take it off before putting all those 10mm bolts in...or plan on taking the bolts all loose again to get it off later (argh).

G. The front tow plate holes will be tight around the grids, so you will likely have to push the fascia back over them...I did not have to cut them at all. (Keep an eye on the bottom underpanel connection mentioned in D. above as you do this.)

H. Reinstall all those pushpins in the wheelwells, along with the 3 - 7mm screws on each side.

I did get myself blessed with a check engine light as I moved it out of the garage. I *think* it was due to my turning on the truck to test the rear lights with the front fascia off and unplugged. The message on FordPass was that there was an electrical concern with the outside air temperature sensor. I think I got it reset and cleared with my OBDii reader. I hope.

Now on to the 6 pin and the breakaway switch. But the Demco install is complete.

Today I received a message from Demco that the third, unknown person with a baseplate had NO issues at all and declared it to be an easy install without having to remove the 4 vanes from the active shutter. So either his truck is different or he didn't notice that the blades can't move if left in place.

I remain convined this is the best way to go, removing shutters or not.

Great work! It looks better than factory and far superior to the RM or BO installs. Awesome documentation of your trials and tribulations installing this beast. Let's hope Demco can re-evaluate their install directions to match your experience. Many thanks. Happy towing.

 

[BradnChristine]

Great work! It looks better than factory and far superior to the RM or BO installs. Awesome documentation of your trials and tribulations installing this beast. Let's hope Demco can re-evaluate their install directions to match your experience. Many thanks. Happy towing.

Today I focused on the lights. Another fun and not easy task. I decided I would cheat and see where Demco put the 6-pin socket on its demo. Uh, nope. No electrical connections to be found.

I had a mounting plate in my junk that is much smaller than the one Demco provided. I have no idea where it was intended to go, and Demco didn't have any advice except that it is a sort of generic plate. Well, there is NOT a lot of space in there, so it literally took me all day. I wanted to make connections so that removing the fascia wouldn't have a wiring issue. So I ran about 5 inches of wire out of the 6 pin socket into a 4-pin flat plug and socket and connected that to the wiring back to the taillights. I used half of a 2-pin trailer connector for the charge wire that also came out about 5 inches. The extra connector and wires were pushed to the side of the lower grill opening.

I connected the chargewire to a Hopkins Towed Vehicle Battery Maintainer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCXB8A? I've never used this, so I don't know what to expect from it. I WILL be bringing both a battery charger and a jump start box when I take it out on its maiden voyage, just in case.

The only thing left is to find a place to mount the breakaway switch (used to trigger my BrakeBuddy). After all the rest, that will not be such a chore.

I did take a nice little 15 mile run around town just to see if anything fell off...and to enjoy my Maverick which was apart for about 11 days!

 

[KathyG]

Looks great! Congrats on finishing up and wishing you a fun trip. It should tow real nice!
Would love to see a note (and photo?) on your towing experience when you can.
Thanks for all the detailed comments on your install so we can all learn from it.
Regards,
Kathy

 

[BradnChristine]

Looks great! Congrats on finishing up and wishing you a fun trip. It should tow real nice!
Would love to see a note (and photo?) on your towing experience when you can.
Thanks for all the detailed comments on your install so we can all learn from it.
Regards,
Kathy

I finished up the breakaway switch and chargewire today, then changed the ends of my Falcon 2 Roadmaster towbar with Roadmaster adaptors to fit the Demco baseplate.

Then I studied the manual about how to get it into neutral tow, made myself a cheater card like I always do for a new towed. By the way, the Ford instructions leave out a step. They tell you to use the menu button to find Settings, then select Neutral Tow. Nope, not on that Settings menu. You must select Vehicle in the Settings menu, and then Neutral Tow will become selectable. The screen will completely walk you through the process.

Then I bit the bullet and hooked it up to my RV (a 2021 LTV Wonder RL on a Ford Transit 350-HD chassis) and took about a 30 mile trip down Interstate 90 and everything was great! No issues at all. When I got back, I disconnected and took the truck out of Neutral Tow and took it for about a 10 mile trip. No issues whatsoever.

The finished look with the included Demco rubber plugs:

The package connected:

The towbar and connections:

You can notice that the tow points are much, much closer to the center when compared to the Blue Ox version that @realshelby warns about being way too wide. My first corner was a little sharper than intended as I was used to a wider stance (thus a shorter towbar distance).

While I wasn't pleased about having to pop out the 4 vanes, nothing was damaged. The Demco install is 99% reversable. There is a little triming on the outside edge of the shutter assembly's plastic, you'd never know it. If Ford comes out with a 2025 Maverick AWD Hybrid that is flat towable, I might be able to take off this install and put in on that...if they don't change the front end.

If anyone needs any more specific info that I haven't droned on about, feel free to PM me. I am quite relieved and happy that it is finally done.

 

[AF Blue]

I appreciate all the info you provide.
I am envious of your setup.
I actually would love to get and LTV Rear Lounge and hit the road for a while.
I will continue to dream!!

Thanks again for sharing info.

EDIT - and yes ... that looks awesome .... not beat up front end

 

[BradnChristine]

I appreciate all the info you provide.
I am envious of your setup.
I actually would love to get and LTV Rear Lounge and hit the road for a while.
I will continue to dream!!

Thanks again for sharing info.

Thank you for your kindness. I figured it might help others setting up their Mavericks, if they choose to do it themselves, and it makes my lessons learned a little more worth the effort if I can share them.

We bought the WRL used and have put only about 7,000 trouble-free miles on it. Incredible amount of power and torque...and that 10-speed multi-mode transmission makes towing up OR down hills a breeze. I'm hoping for about 13.5 mpg with the Maverick in tow. It is a lot lighter than the 4 door Wrangler or the old S-10 Ihave towed with the LTV, as they were both at least 500 lbs heavier. We generally got 13.9mpg when towing the C-Max, and its weight is similar to the Maverick.

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