Request - Disable / Reconfigure BMS

[colinl]

Yes - it blew the 2 spade fuses on the amp itself. Power fuse is fine.

after you fix the ground if you still have issues, I think you've got a bad amp. it was either born that way, or it's that way now after running it real hard.

Sponsored

 

[Silver23]

No. I stated there is a distribution block. The large ground runs from the batt neg post to the dist block out back, then from dist block to amps. same for power, except the power runs have fusing on them.

Yes - it blew the 2 spade fuses on the amp itself. Power fuse is fine.

Supercapacitor banks do really work. I used a XS Power SB630 in a 2021 Hyundai Accent and was able to drive 2.5kw RMS @ 1 ohm with very little voltage drop.

There are 0.5 ohm stable amps that produce tens of thousands of watts that run just fine. Lots of people run down that low.

No, I am wanting a stable charge voltage that doesn't change, lol. Not more power. THe more power fluctuates, the less efficient the amplifier - and it is hard on the power components in the amp. It's the same reason you don't want tons of voltage drop while playing.

If that block is not grounded it's the same thing. I would remove that ground mess and ground as close as possible to the amp.

 

[tysonbisme]

If that block is not grounded it's the same thing. I would remove that ground mess and ground as close as possible to the amp.

It's not really a mess... lol

It is grounded... to the battery up front. If it wasn't grounded - I wouldn't have power running thru the amps. My Thought was to simply an an additional, shorter ground, so that in case that was an actual issue - it would be rectified thru that.

 

[colinl]

It's a long, drawn out debate that plagues audio builders all over. You can't ground thousands of watts / hundreds of amps to a unibody, so the battery up in the front is the next best place.

you can guess which side of that 'debate' I'm on.

also, here is the reference:

Electrical Accessory Installation
To make sure the battery management system works correctly, do not connect an electrical device ground connection directly to the battery negative post. This can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation.

 

[rallyshark]

I feel like disconnecting the ground at the battery, so it doesn't interfere with the BMS, along with a short chassis ground is going to solve your problem. Do multiple chassis grounds(one for each amp) if you need to, but I'd get that ground off the battery myself. These newer cars don't do well with battery grounds, because of the BMS being on the battery ground.

 

[tysonbisme]

you can guess which side of that 'debate' I'm on.

also, here is the reference:

Electrical Accessory Installation
To make sure the battery management system works correctly, do not connect an electrical device ground connection directly to the battery negative post. This can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation.

From the first reply, there was no guessing. lol

It's okay, though. Audio guys can be strange

 

[tysonbisme]

I feel like disconnecting the ground at the battery, so it doesn't interfere with the BMS, along with a short chassis ground is going to solve your problem. Do multiple chassis grounds(one for each amp) if you need to, but I'd get that ground off the battery myself. These newer cars don't do well with battery grounds, because of the BMS being on the battery ground.

Anyone wanna buy a 12-15ft run of 2 AWG OFC welding wire?

If my issue is actually related to charging voltage, it is 100% due to the way the BMS is handling charging. It is well known that, stock, these things range from the low 12v range all the way up to 15+, seemingly whenever they want.

The entire goal of the post was to request a way to go to conventional charging without CEL, battery light, etc. The semantics of my audio setup are a separate story / issue.

 

[colinl]

From the first reply, there was no guessing. lol

It's okay, though. Audio guys can be strange

I've always grounded as I described and never an issue. I would ground to the chassis even with a hybrid, and the 12V battery is like 2 feet from the amp(s).

if it doesn't help, you haven't lost much time, and you can be reasonably sure that amp is busted. whenever I've had an amp blow fuses or engage protection mode it's always followed shortly after with that amp being repaired or replaced, so I am definitely hoping this ground solves the issue.

 

[Silver23]

It's a very common practice in car audio and has been for many years. It helps reduce noise in the output signals, etc. and is necessary when running additional batteries as well.

It's a long, drawn out debate that plagues audio builders all over. You can't ground thousands of watts / hundreds of amps to a unibody, so the battery up in the front is the next best place.

However, I am definitely considering adding an additional, shorter ground to the dist block. Not a huge deal to do

I would not worry one bit about grounding at the amp on any vehicle. Not wanting to start a debate or whatever but think about all the start stop vehicles out there that have the battery in the trunk. The starter is pulling hundreds of amps (well 200 or more)

I bet as soon as you ground that block (if it is close to the amps) your problem will be solved.

As for noise, I'm thinking you would more likely introduce noise from that long cable run if it gets near low level inputs.

The bottom line is in your case I think running a long ground to the battery is asking for problems, esp voltage drop to the amps. The shorter the power cable the better, and grounding is part of the power of course. And, the body of the vehicle is like a HUGE cable.

 

[tysonbisme]

I've always grounded as I described and never an issue. I would ground to the chassis even with a hybrid, and the 12V battery is like 2 feet from the amp(s).

if it doesn't help, you haven't lost much time, and you can be reasonably sure that amp is busted. whenever I've had an amp blow fuses or engage protection mode it's always followed shortly after with that amp being repaired or replaced, so I am definitely hoping this ground solves the issue.

I do too.

For what it's worth, it has been playing at 2 ohm for many days now without issue.

 

[colinl]

The entire goal of the post was to request a way to go to conventional charging without CEL, battery light, etc. The semantics of my audio setup are a separate story / issue.

lol if you ignore all this advice about trying a short ground, that's on you.

 

[tysonbisme]

I would not worry one bit about grounding at the amp on any vehicle. Not wanting to start a debate or whatever but think about all the start stop vehicles out there that have the battery in the trunk. The starter is pulling hundreds of amps (well 200 or more)

I bet as soon as you ground that block (if it is close to the amps) your problem will be solved.

As for noise, I'm thinking you would more likely introduce noise from that long cable run if it gets near low level inputs.

The bottom line is in your case I think running a long ground to the battery is asking for problems, esp voltage drop to the amps. The shorter the power cable the better, and grounding is part of the power of course. And, the body of the vehicle is like a HUGE cable.

There are no low-level inputs unless you convert the hi level from the speaker leads to low level using something like a lc7i. Which I am not doing.

There are countless threads all over audio forums which indicate that grounding at the battery helps mitigate noise, such as alt whine, etc.

But again, all semantics.

 

[tysonbisme]

lol if you ignore all this advice about trying a short ground, that's on you.

Nowhere did I say I would be avoiding / ignoring the advice. It was my next step regardless of the confirmation I got from everyone here.

It got out of hand as soon as everyone brought the system into it.

The point of this thread is to request a way to go to conventional charging without CEL, battery light, etc. The semantics of my audio setup are a separate story / issue.

 

[colinl]

It got out of hand as soon as everyone brought the system into it.

not out of hand if we end up helping you actually fix your real problem.

 

[Silver23]

There are no low-level inputs unless you convert the hi level from the speaker leads to low level using something like a lc7i. Which I am not doing.

There are countless threads all over audio forums which indicate that grounding at the battery helps mitigate noise, such as alt whine, etc.

But again, all semantics.

Yes, you aren't having noise problems, although it sounds like you haven't checked, most likely a voltage problem. And again, I suspect the long ground.
You could alway verify by watching the voltage at the amp.
IMO asking the truck to overcharge the battery is not a fix, it's more of a bad bandaid, you know?

Sponsored