Recent towing experience: towed ~5000 lbs for 250 miles w/ Maverick EcoBoost AWD 4K Towing

[Maverick2022XL]

I was thinking of looking into one of those utility trailers made from aluminum just for pulling with the Maverick. All of my other trailers that are bumper pull tip the scales around 4,000 lbs. empty with the exception of my car trailer that's right at 2,100. That's getting right at that uncomfortable zone even with it having brakes. I may just end up taking my Ram on the trip but 15 mpg empty and 11-12 towing has me trying to figure out a Maverick tow instead. Well that and having 240k miles on it already. I change engine oil every 3500 on everything regardless. Cheap insurance. Tranny usually gets done once a year which is about 25k miles for me.

I have a single axle 6 x 14 utility trailer I use with the Maverick. It is about 1000lbs and load rated for up to 2980 combined. I do go up to 3500ish combined without issues. Guarantees to keep me out of trouble trying to push the truck too hard with it. It is good for almost anything I use it for like 20 ft pieces of wood or trailing the UTV around.

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[Maverick2022XL]

Not a knock on you when I say this... But now I know less than I did before.

The 4k hitch is listed as class 2...but can't be. Whoo boy who knows what going on?

Yeah the parts catalogs are clearly wrong on the description, no way Ford is using a Class II hitch on a 4000 lb rated tow package. Also no way the other hitches are Class I hitches since far as I know no one makes a Class I hitch with a 2 inch receiver, also no way they are higher rated than the 4k tow package hitches.

 

[GPSMan]

My Hybrid 2.5 BB has a sticker on the hitch with:
LU5A-19A478-AA

Up and under STAMPED into the metal:
NZ68 19D521 A 02

Also
17322

In the technical service manual. No actual part number given- just pictures and directions for the removal and installation of tow hitch or standard bumpers:

It is the exact same picture, exact same placement, exact same bolt placement, exact same number of bolts, exact same bolt torque ( 85 lb/ft) whether you have a 2k or 4k tow package.

Which makes complete sense. Ford would stock and install universal hitches on all Maverick variants. Also the bolts come with thread locker compound. The bolts are single use. It specifically says to remove and DISCARD original factory bolts and use NEW bolts with new thread locker.

 

[Teardrop Bike Guy]

Figured a little picker and I can crib it. Then shovel it into the combine later or run it through an old sheller powered by a hit and miss for fun before it goes into my hammer mill. Even a good price on a two row would work, especially if it's on 30" rows.

City boy says thanks for the explanation!

 

[Teardrop Bike Guy]

Yes, I have trailer brakes, 7-pin connector, and digital proportional brake controller.

Did you install the 7 pin connector?

 

[MavDave]

You may want to check into the use of the sway control hitch. I believe I recall them being a big "no-no" for Unibody trucks. Also, the Maverick has integrated sway control built in to the computer brain of the truck, which also might factor into why they say not to use aftermarket. Using a sway control hitch might mess with that somehow?

Edit to add: Found this reasoning online.

"I called my contact at Progress Manufacturing (creator of Equalizer and FastWay Weight Distribution products) to pick his brain on this topic. He explained that weight distribution (WD) and sway control products rely on leverage to work properly, which requires the body of the vehicle to be rigid enough to withstand the force. Unibody vehicles are typically not as strong or rigid and therefore cannot typically handle the same loads and stresses of a body-on-frame or ladder-style frame vehicle when it comes to towing and using WD or sway control."

This is archaic information, modern uni-body vehicles are far removed from their 60s and 70s ancestors. Please look at the link below. Ford actually requires the use of a WD hitch to achieve the maximum tow rating for the flex and Explorer. Also remember all full size vans are uni-body, and every one I've seen doing heavy towing uses a WD hitch. Just food for thought. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25801852/print/true.cfm

 

[GPSMan]

Class II hitches also come with 2 inch receivers they are not common but do exist. If you look at the parts catalogs they do offer 3 distinct bumper impact bars under the part # 17D826. 2 of them are for either a FWD or AWD without 4k tow and 1 for 4k tow packages. did some digging and the one for 4k tow is the part# 17D826B, they list it as a Class II which can't be true if they rate 4k as 4000lbs. So if that one is wrong then who knows exactly what the other 2 actually are because they should technically be Class I receivers which they can't be if you believe the class description is correct.

The physical stamp on my hitch is:
NZ68-19D521-A


Ford OEM parts web site says:
NZ6Z-17D826-C
and is same for all trims

I'm willing to bet the hitch is same for all varients. Repair and installation manual has the same hitch pictured for all variants. The 4k gives you additional cooling, gear ratio, software, and integrated brake controller. While not yet PROVEN it sure looks like the hitch is the same.

P.S. We have Class III hitches. Can't find it in print but 65 out of 65 models of Class II are 1.25" receivers. As Gilligan would say "That's almost 100%". So we don't have Class II and I don't think the tiniest truck would logically come with a class IV.

P.P.S. 747 out of 747 models of Class II on the Curt web site are 1.25" receivers. Anything different is an "adapter" or home made. Looks like a required aspect of class II is the smaller size.

This hitch ain't the weakest link folks.

 

[Jraoffroad]

I think the difference between the 4k and regular hitch is just the cut out for the trailer plug.

So 1000+ pounds over the legal limit? Better hope you don't get into an accident.

Tow ratings are just what Ford is willing to warranty. That is why they are not on the compliance sticker in the door jam. As long as you dont exceed the rating on any component you are legal.

There are no towing limits.
There are plenty of towing... ah hem.... "recommendations".

Some from Ford. Some from individuals.

It's REFRESHING to post about what these trucks DO. There's enough postings about what you "shouldn't" do, that really are not helpful, and second, did anyone ask "Hey, what shouldn't I do with my truck?"

Yes, I have trailer brakes, 7-pin connector, and digital proportional brake controller.
Love the set up. Was the most comfortable trip I've ever made with 50,000 miles of pulling trailers over 25 years.

Was the wiring for the the brakes already there? I normally run Prodigy P3 controllers, but I'm looking at the red Redarc Tow Pro for the Maverick.

 

[JennyJoannSuebeeMcNash]

Curious about the towing experiences of those with the Ecoboost with the standard 2000lb towing capacity. Was planning on buying a cargo trailer and converting it to a camper, probably 5x8 or 6x8. Not sure if I want to go bigger than that. Anyone want to share their experiences?

 

[GPSMan]

I'm sure it's the case any variant in part number for the hitch is due to the sheet metal cut-out for the different style of trailer connectors, 4-pin vs. 7-pin. Keen observation.

I had to use the 7-pin socket template provided with the after market 7-pin connector and a Dremel tool to cut a circle for the 7-pin connector.

If you buy the right connector, the stock 4 pin will connect to the 7-pin giving you the basic functions. This one taps the stock 4-pin, gives you a new 4-pin and a 7-pin. You will need to add your own wire to connect the brakes to the 7-pin (blue to blue). I ran one wire under my truck. That's it.
5 pins is all I need. But 4 wouldn't do.

Pin 6 is for reverse lamps on trailer (my trailer does not have reverse lamps).

Pin 7 is for auxiliary 12v power for inside the trailer, like for interior lights, mine has none. It is also for recharging a 12v trailer battery and/or break away battery.

Easy. Like under $40.
(Plus whatever brake controller)

 

[Jraoffroad]

I'm sure it's the case any variant in part number for the hitch is due to the sheet metal cut-out for the different style of trailer connectors, 4-pin vs. 7-pin. Keen observation.

I had to use the 7-pin socket template provided with the after market 7-pin connector and a Dremel tool to cut a circle for the 7-pin connector.

If you buy the right connector, the stock 4 pin will connect to the 7-pin giving you the basic functions. This one taps the stock 4-pin, gives you a new 4-pin and a 7-pin. You will need to add your own wire to connect the brakes to the 7-pin (blue to blue). I ran one wire under my truck. That's it.
5 pins is all I need. But 4 wouldn't do.

Pin 6 is for reverse lamps on trailer (my trailer does not have reverse lamps).

Pin 7 is for auxiliary 12v power for inside the trailer, like for interior lights, mine has none.

Easy. Like under $40.
(Plus whatever brake controller)

Thanks. I was hoping the wiring would be there, as it has been in every ford truck I've had since my 83, but figured they wouldn't put it on the Maverick.

You should need the AUX pin power for the trailer break away battery. All my trailers have reverse lights so I'll need that to. I may as well just run 7 way all the way back and just hook up eveything up front.

 

[Maverick2022XL]

My Hybrid 2.5 BB has a sticker on the hitch with:
LU5A-19A478-AA

Up and under STAMPED into the metal:
NZ68 19D521 A 02

Also
17322

In the technical service manual. No actual part number given- just pictures and directions for the removal and installation of tow hitch or standard bumpers:

It is the exact same picture, exact same placement, exact same bolt placement, exact same number of bolts, exact same bolt torque ( 85 lb/ft) whether you have a 2k or 4k tow package.

Which makes complete sense. Ford would stock and install universal hitches on all Maverick variants. Also the bolts come with thread locker compound. The bolts are single use. It specifically says to remove and DISCARD original factory bolts and use NEW bolts with new thread locker.

The hitch receiver is welded to the impact bar, you can't buy it seperately. Technically there are 4 bars. There is one bar that has no hitch receiver attached to it, then 2 that are for non 4k trucks with hitch receivers then finally one that is specifically for 4k package trucks. They do all bolt on the same but the AWD and FWD bars are slightly different in shape because of the suspensions being different.

 

[JimParker256]

Pin 7 is for auxiliary 12v power for inside the trailer, like for interior lights, mine has none.

I have only operated trailers that were significantly heavier-duty than the ones a Maverick can pull... (Back in my 2500 HD diesel days.) But I was under the impression that Pin 7 also supplied the 12V that recharging the trailer's emergency electric brake battery. Is that an incorrect assumption?

If my understanding is correct, and if you don't connect Pin 7, how would the little "emergency braking" battery get recharged? That's the power source that supplies 12V to the brakes if the trailer comes unhitched and the safety cable is pulled to activate the brakes. Without it, if the hitch disconnects, you might see your trailer passing you on a downhill. (Of course, none of US would EVER mis-connect the hitch, right? But those "other folks" might... )

 

[GPSMan]

True about pin 7

I choose to recharge the trailer battery in the house. As I use the trailer once or twice a year, it would go dead sitting in the yard.

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