Question on "Remote Features Disabled to Preserve Battery"

[MAVRICK]

Does the "battery" reference in the message: "your vehicle has entered deep sleep mode to conserve Battery energy ..." means "the High Voltage Battery (HBV)"? ... or the conventional "12V Battery"?

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[Zotman]

12v

 

[Matso]

Uh oh, there goes another one. Meaning this 12 volt symptom is pervasive and if you're lucky it just means you need a replacement. If not, it could mean weeks in the shop for diagnostics. Hopefully you are still under warranty.

 

[HeyBales]

Deep sleep mode specifically means the modem is disabled - why the notice says you can't remotely reach the vehicle now.

Means the voltage or SOC% has gone low enough, the system thinks there could be a problem starting if it did nothing, therefore it's going to conserve the 12VB for starting - which frankly doesn't take much. (and the modem doesn't use much either - if working correctly with good signal)

Get a jump pack! Useful to help people anyway.

You could remain in this state for months with no problems but the notice. Especially before it goes low enough for warranty replacement.
You likely already noticed the other battery saving changes that should have occurred first - power ports off sooner than 75 min max, overhead lights not remaining on as long after door opens, ect.

Now - if you had not started it for 14 days - different matter, and that's why it did it.

 

[HoiToid]

I have '24 hybrid XLT, with 10,000 miles.
How long ( how many miles) does it take to get it out of battery saver mode? I just drove 120 miles roundtrip: 60 each way with a 3 hour layover andit's back in battery saver mode same day; when I got home, I went back into truck to get items out of bed and the unlock/lock process seems to trigger it.
I've already had the battery replaced in February '25

 

[HoiToid]

To clarify: the replacement battery was a
Motorcraft TestedTough MAX BXT-99RT4-A, 470CCA, Done in June 2024.
Most of my driving is 5-10mile trips, 3-4 days a week; but it's frustrating to have to go for long drives when I'm only doing it to charge up a battery: defeats the purpose of trying to save money on gas.

 

[HeyBales]

I have '24 hybrid XLT, with 10,000 miles.
How long ( how many miles) does it take to get it out of battery saver mode? I just drove 120 miles roundtrip: 60 each way with a 3 hour layover andit's back in battery saver mode same day; when I got home, I went back into truck to get items out of bed and the unlock/lock process seems to trigger it.
I've already had the battery replaced in February '25

To clarify: the replacement battery was a
Motorcraft TestedTough MAX BXT-99RT4-A, 470CCA, Done in June 2024.
Most of my driving is 5-10mile trips, 3-4 days a week; but it's frustrating to have to go for long drives when I'm only doing it to charge up a battery: defeats the purpose of trying to save money on gas.

The voltage or SOC% needs to be higher than limit to not induce the BMS to init battery saver mode, or deep sleep mode.

My June 25 same new battery as yours - already can't hold a charge. No deep sleep, but battery saver with lights and power port easily seen as shortened on times.
It finally got fully charged on a 3 day drive KC to NY - 8 hrs x 2 days, 4 hrs 3rd day.
And it couldn't hold the charge up there, already dropping from max 85% to 70% SOC, actually takes longer than my 2 x daily 10-15 min drives to get it up to 70% (this is Ford's SOC version, not the real world).
My mornings or after work are 11.8 V now mainly - when during that trip after 3rd day, after a couple hours, it was 12.7. And on drive back a week later got up to that again. And dropped the next day.
Already sulfated probably - can't hold a charge.

It has nothing to do with miles driven to charge it - merely time. You can leave it in driveway in Ready mode running, ICE kicking on when needed - I'd say 30 min will get you up to float charge level.
But just like any charger, float, or trickle charge - is going to take hours at about 1/2 Amp charging level.
If you are interesting in getting it topped off - whole lot easier with an actual charger than using the truck. Cheaper 2A NOCO won't take as long as an actual trickle charger, though it does that at the end too.

And yes - there is a 75 min max duration after truck turn-off before systems go into sleep mode and the drain is supposed to drop to milliamps - opening a door resets that timer for some systems - maybe not the whole 75 min for all the trucks systems, but some are.

 

[HoiToid]

I have a Traveller brand 10amp, 12V battery charger ( I think I got it at TractorSupply), the box says " fully automatic ", overcharge protection. For a 550CCA battery, the manual says 9-13 hours recharge time for the "Green Light" to come on indicating full charge.
My stupid question for my '24 Hybrid is: do I connect it to the terminals under the hood, or do I connect it to the battery under the back seat?
For charging battery while its in vehicle, manual says for "Negative grounded post", connect Negative clamp to metal part of frame or engine block. Sounds simple but I don't want to screw up. Can anyone advise me on what is better way to charge my battery that keeps going into Battery Saver mode even after a 120 round-trip drive?
Thanks.
(The manual has instructions for a Positive Grounded Post, but I'm assuming Hybrid is Negative Grounded~~~ is that a correct assumption?)

 

[commadorebob]

Keep in mind that batteries will show a lower voltage when the weather gets cold. So, you might see this message more often in the winter than the summer. Also, if you don't drive it for an extended period, it'll pop up even if the battery is fine.

 

[HeyBales]

I have a Traveller brand 10amp, 12V battery charger ( I think I got it at TractorSupply), the box says " fully automatic ", overcharge protection. For a 550CCA battery, the manual says 9-13 hours recharge time for the "Green Light" to come on indicating full charge.
My stupid question for my '24 Hybrid is: do I connect it to the terminals under the hood, or do I connect it to the battery under the back seat?
For charging battery while its in vehicle, manual says for "Negative grounded post", connect Negative clamp to metal part of frame or engine block. Sounds simple but I don't want to screw up. Can anyone advise me on what is better way to charge my battery that keeps going into Battery Saver mode even after a 120 round-trip drive?
Thanks.
(The manual has instructions for a Positive Grounded Post, but I'm assuming Hybrid is Negative Grounded~~~ is that a correct assumption?)

Terminals under hood fine, if that's easier.
Straight to battery is fine too, if that's easier.

There is a battery sensor on negative post measuring amps in and out - but only In for charging when key is On - so straight to the posts is fine too, no logging will be confused.

Negative grounded, correct.

Also - get a not cheapest power port USB adapter with Voltage reading.
Measure the port with multimeter, then plug in adapter to see how much it's off by.
Plug it in after a multi-day non-drive if there is any - when Voltage is at actual 12.2 - give it a charge cycle soon.
Then confirm afterwards you do BMS Relearn - disconnect charger, lock truck, sit for almost 10 hrs.
Repeat.

 

[HoiToid]

Thanks HeyBales; so to clarify:
1) I can connect my charger to the terminals under the hood as shown in truck's owners manual on section for jump starting?
or
2) I can connect my charger directly to both + & - posts on battery under seat; I don't have to connect the Negative clamp to the frame?

After that I'm lost on the final steps you outlined about USB adapter and multimeter etc.
I'm not proficient in being confident in doing that part. But I appreciate your time in replying.

 

[HeyBales]

1 - yes.
2 - yes posts.

I would NOT recommend this adapter. But something similar but better.
My 1st one read 0.2 V high at lower voltages, and increased to 0.4 V high at higher voltages.
Good customer service at least - they sent a warranty replacement when they saw my review, as they claim it should be within 0.2 all times.
2nd one started 0.1 V high at lower, and 0.2 V high at higher voltages. The lower has now increased to 0.2 high. But no movement since then, so when I read it in the morning I just subtract. That's mainly what I wanted.
If you have no multimeter to probe the port and get an accurate V reading - just plan on subtracting 0.2 V from a reading I'd say.

Other reason I would not recommend - it's supposed to supply up to 2.4 A to USB for charging phone - since it has a readout, it's never shown above 1.2 A that I've seen - and modern phone sitting in holder doing navigation on long trips will keep losing charge, so even if the 1.2 displayed reading isn't accurate - it ain't enough to charge a phone being used, so it's not near 2.4. Cheap circuitry.

So not this, hopefully someone has a better recommendation.
https://a.co/d/03YT4xk

 

[HoiToid]

That's helpful, thank you, I appreciate it,

 

[jonshep]

I have not had the "conserve battery" issue on my Mav, 2024 EB XLT, yet. But my wife's 2023 Edge, which is basically the same, is throwing that alert daily. I rolled out the charger and connected it and the battery had 11.5 volts. It's not a big battery so I set the charger for 2 amp charge for about 2 hours. Charger had kicked off as it was fully charged and indicated 12.5 volts. I was expecting 13 to 14 volts, but a didn't get the conserve message for a day and a half. The Edge is still under warranty, so I will let the dealer explain the problem. I suspect it's a cheap battery. Now, the irony is, both vehicles have auto the auto stop/start feature to save energy, and the battery saver message says drive the car to charge the battery! Now I am not the brightest star in the night sky, but does anyone else see this as monumental stupidity?

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