Powering all my 12v Lighting Mods - Wired to Ceiling Mounted Switch Panel

[AbnRgr]

This will be my first mod of a stock audio system since I mounted two cheap additional speakers on the back shelve of my first car, a ‘65 Mustang. Oh, I almost forgot. I also added the 8-track. Hot stuff for 1970.

My amp/subwoofer combo is intended for under seat installation. Assuming it fits, it will probably end up under the front passenger seat. I see if it can be secured to the OEM bracket behind the rear seat as an alternative.

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[gunnmitten]

@AbnRgr would you be able to draw up your circuit for a better image of how you've run from x fuse tap to engine compartment panel, back to sunglasses-mounted switch panel?

 

[AbnRgr]

@AbnRgr would you be able to draw up your circuit for a better image of how you've run from x fuse tap to engine compartment panel, back to sunglasses-mounted switch panel?

There is nothing custom to the installation of my switch panel. Below is a schematic from the seller‘s Amazon site. Two wires pass through the OEM firewall port. The first is an accessory fuse tap wire from the interior fuse panel, under the dash, out to the control box. The second is a wire from the control box routed through the firewall, up the A pillar, across the headliner, to the switch panel.. Everything controlled by the switch panel is up front of the firewall. Each light has a paired wire (+ & -) running through a cable tie secured plastic runner for protection from rubbing against a metal edge and being cut. Each terminates at the control box. The box has a shared positive and ground circuit for six terminals. The ground runs to the location used by hybrids for jump starting. The positive goes under the black cover of the two positive terminals in the engine compartment, secured by a wing nut. No cutting or crimping required on the wires supplied with the product.
I could have used a larger diameter conduit run for multiple circuits rather than running each separate. It would have been cleaner, but I was inpatient to have each project finished, rather than waiting to complete one major long-term project. Any questions?

 

[commadorebob]

That is awesome!

 

[Dad]

I like what you did here. Fog or no fog, it's never a mistake to have more light on the road to aid in driving especially in inclement weather, be it rain, fog, or just an unlit road.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I'm going to go wireless with the Garmin Powerswitch - https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/718849

 

[AbnRgr]

I'm going to go wireless with small package the Garmin Powerswitch - https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/718849

A lot of capability in a small package, but also at x4+ the price. I’ll be interested in seeing a write up after your install. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Mav007]

Nice, here is my switch setup. I used the cubby for this

I have the same controller and I was thinking of putting mine there. I have a bunch of lights I have to transfer over from my f150

 

[Tech Tye]

I have the same controller and I was thinking of putting mine there. I have a bunch of lights I have to transfer over from my f150

I got a blank cubby on Etsy , it was for mounting switches or whatever. I got the arms on Amazon ( the plate is a shock plate
https://a.co/d/3PyZ0Sv
The arm is a medium
https://a.co/d/81rPaXv
The socket for the 4200
https://a.co/d/4bkkoq9
Also need this bolt for the 4200 as the ones that come with the ball are wrong. I think I may have shortened the bolt too
https://a.co/d/chP9WCe

 

[junyamada]

There is nothing custom to the installation of my switch panel. Below is a schematic from the seller‘s Amazon site. Two wires pass through the OEM firewall port. The first is an accessory fuse tap wire from the interior fuse panel, under the dash, out to the control box. The second is a wire from the control box routed through the firewall, up the A pillar, across the headliner, to the switch panel.. Everything controlled by the switch panel is up front of the firewall. Each light has a paired wire (+ & -) running through a cable tie secured plastic runner for protection from rubbing against a metal edge and being cut. Each terminates at the control box. The box has a shared positive and ground circuit for six terminals. The ground runs to the location used by hybrids for jump starting. The positive goes under the black cover of the two positive terminals in the engine compartment, secured by a wing nut. No cutting or crimping required on the wires supplied with the product.
I could have used a larger diameter conduit run for multiple circuits rather than running each separate. It would have been cleaner, but I was inpatient to have each project finished, rather than waiting to complete one major long-term project. Any questions?

Hi, I’m planning to install mine and saw that you have the Hybrid as well. Auxbeam says that I should put the big red wire to the battery. Did you have any issues using the positive post under the hood?

Not really that familiar with electrical, most diy. Thanks!

 

[AbnRgr]

Hi, I’m planning to install mine and saw that you have the Hybrid as well. Auxbeam says that I should put the big red wire to the battery. Did you have any issues using the positive post under the hood?

Not really that familiar with electrical, most diy. Thanks!

i was very concerned about wiring everything up with a hybrid. I found that tapping into the side marker circuit with two items, my Raptor lights and he under the hood LED strip, would throw the BMS for a loop. Therefore, I was real concerned about running everything through the control box and a single positive cable. I checked with a number of people here at MTC to gain some confidence that what I was doing wasn’t going to end up with a trip to a dealer’s service department.

Under the hood of hybrids, there are two positive 12v poste side by side. Under the red flip-back cover is the terminal used to jump your vehicle. Next to it is a black flip-back terminal cover. That is where I made the positive connection going to the switch control box. I used a thumb screw to secure the terminal lug connector to the post. No sparks, smoke, or flames.

 

[junyamada]

i was very concerned about wiring everything up with a hybrid. I found that tapping into the side marker circuit with two items, my Raptor lights and he under the hood LED strip, would through the BMS for a loop. Therefore I was real concerned about running everything through the control box and a single positive cable. I checked with a number of people here at MTC to gain some confidence that what I was doing wasn’t going to end up with a trip to a dealer’s service department.

Under the hood of hybrids, there are two positive 12v poste side by side. Under the red flip-back cover is the terminal used to jump your vehicle. Next to it is a black flip-back terminal cover. That is where I made the positive connection going to the switch control box. I used a thumb screw to secure the terminal lug connector to the post. No sparks, smoke, or flames.

Thanks, I now have an idea on where to go.

 

[junyamada]

Thanks for the guidance. Was able to install it. Only one light installed currently.

 

[AbnRgr]

Great. Now fill it to capacity.

 

[junyamada]

Great. Now fill it to capacity.

Slowly. I have my second lighting to add soon.

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