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Hello all--

Have read quite a few posts with similar experiences, difficulties, and frustrations about their Maverick orders.

After a 5 month (from order date) wait, we finally picked up our new Maverick yesterday (one day after it arrived) from the local dealer. Everything as expected on the vehicle, no nonsense on the price, etc. So the process works. You just need to make sure it works for you.

Having spent years in the car business, wanted to share my advice on how to avoid the nonsense:

Some inside baseball. Different dealers get allocations of vehicles "for inventory" based on their historic sales numbers at their location. The factory (Ford) has a formula they use to do the initial allocations of a new model. The other way they get cars is by customer orders by local customers. These usually are seperate and don't count against their "inventory" allocations. For a small dealer these are really important because its the only way they can get more cars.

So, when a car is in tight supply or high demand, your best way of getting a car is to order it. If you buy a car out of inventory, the price is set by the dealer and like everything else will likely reflect supply and demand. If they price it too high no one will buy it. Sadly it may be too high for "you" but someone else has made a different calculus that it works for them. It's not about "fairness" for the dealer, its about economics. It's a rare event where they have a "hot" car and can actually make a profit and when they have a chance to, they will. That's just business.

Given these two options, the best way is to *order* your own car build from dealer/Ford. You get exactly what you want, and you know the price up front. This gives you the most control.

Here was my process to order: You go online at ford.com, you choose your build/options, it shows the prices. You create an order. You get an email from Ford acknowledging this order request and it has been forwarded to your local dealer. The local dealer then contacts you, verify's what you want, and sends you a docusign link to approve it. It has all the costs laid out. You docusign it, the dealer docusigns it. You get a copy. You're done. You will receive an email direct from Ford acknowledging your order. I got mine about 48 hours after I docusigned. you wait. It comes in (eventually). You pay. Happy trails!

From what I've read, in some cases people are (1) never receiving any communication from Ford, or (2) receiving calls from their dealer saying their order got cancelled.

For #1, after you've docusigned and placed your order with the dealer, if you have not received an order acknowledgement within 48 hours **from Ford** then that is a red flag. Call the dealer and find out why. Maybe they didn't place the order--if not find out why right now. If the salesman doesn't know, just call the general manager. Word to the wise: all communication to the dealer in these types of transactions should be via email. This gives you an audit trail if you have an issue, and also makes the dealer aware (if they're smart) that you're savvy enough not to put up with any nonsense.

For #2, after you have an acknowledged order, if there is a problem you will receive an email from Ford. Any communication from the dealer outside of this process (custom order) should be viewed with skepticism.

If you do decide to buy an inventory car from a dealer, its caveat emptor--rules of the jungle apply. It's a seller's market. These dealers have very little inventory due to the chip shortage. Anything they have will be marked up, let alone a hot car like the Maverick. You might find a dealer that "in general" has a no markup policy that has a car in inventory. The irony here is that the nationwide auto contract laws that are designed to protect you (e.g. prevent the dealer from keeping your deposit) also give the dealer an out on accepting the deposit. Until you've executed a purchase agreement, given the the money, they've executed the agreement, and given you a copy, you have no contract and no recourse--outside of shaming them on social media which they're used to and most don't care.

Other: In my experience in the auto business, if the dealer has a "hot" car, they're not going to take a deposit or let people test drive it. It's first person there with the money. If you do find a salesman that asks you to put a deposit down (and has given you the final price) to "hold" a car in high demand, the best thing you can do is make a courtesy call the the general manager, introduce yourself, and just give them a headsup you're coming down, looking forward to doing business with them. On a hot car you have multiple salesman calling "their" customers. So this is Especially important if they're not a local dealer and you're traveling, investing time and money to go get it. Let the GM know--they will either do the right thing by assuring you you're good, or be a Dbag and give you a warning of what your likely heading in to so you can do an abort and save your time (and money). In general-- Kill em' with Kindness! People like to do right by people they like.

Hope this is useful.
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MLowe05

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Kill em' with Kindness! People like to do right by people they like.
Your post is full of good advice and inside information and is much appreciated.

I quoted the part above because this part is sometimes especially difficult. I've bought 20 cars, roughly, for our household (not just myself) and negotiated another 20 for family or friends in that time frame. Probably 80% of the time, the dealership has tried very hard to kill me with outright stupidity.

Just this weekend, I've been trying to negotiate a MSRP-deal on a new Civic. I would have an easier time teaching a cow to ice skate. Mind you, it's not the dealers marking them up that is the real issue.. it's the "no it's not marked up" and then the price quote being $500 tints, $500 mats, $500 wax, $500 windshield shade (yes), or my personal favorite on top - $499 for nitrogen in tires. I just wish dealerships would admit to market adjustment markups instead of trying to pretend there is value where there clearly is none.
 
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Your post is full of good advice and inside information and is much appreciated.

I quoted the part above because this part is sometimes especially difficult. I've bought 20 cars, roughly, for our household (not just myself) and negotiated another 20 for family or friends in that time frame. Probably 80% of the time, the dealership has tried very hard to kill me with outright stupidity.

Just this weekend, I've been trying to negotiate a MSRP-deal on a new Civic. I would have an easier time teaching a cow to ice skate. Mind you, it's not the dealers marking them up that is the real issue.. it's the "no it's not marked up" and then the price quote being $500 tints, $500 mats, $500 wax, $500 windshield shade (yes), or my personal favorite on top - $499 for nitrogen in tires. I just wish dealerships would admit to market adjustment markups instead of trying to pretend there is value where there clearly is none.
True. For the customer those "add-on's" are sometimes useful but usually just a way of capturing additional markup. The dealer we bought from not marking their Mav's or other cars up at all--but the Shelby GT500 was marked up $30K. LOL!

The other place you have to watch out is when you go to F&I to complete your purchase. Just budget 90 minutes for PsyOps and bring a sturdy will to not buy anything you didn't intend to when you sat down.
 
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MLowe05

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True. For the customer those "add-on's" are sometimes useful but usually just a way of capturing additional markup. The dealer we bought from not making their Mav's or other cars up at all--but the Shelby GT500 was marked up $30K. LOL!

The other place you have to watch out is when you go to F&I to complete your purchase. Just budget 90 minutes for PsyOps and bring a sturdy will to not buy anything you didn't intend to when you sat down.
Oh god the F&I office.. I can't tell you how many negotiations I've been in where those guys tried to incentivize extended warranties by lowering purchase APR. This practice is, AFAIK, illegal. Doesn't stop them. Also, even a bit of common sense should tell you that the F&I guy might can RAISE the rate the bank sets, for kickback, but would have no authority to lower it.
 

atomguy245

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Yup. I ordered my hybrid 3 months ago, but have been snooping around for a "temporary" Maverick I can get sooner. I talked to a nearby dealer who was happy to order for me at MSRP, but was charging $3000 markup on stock units. I offered a compromise that I would buy a decent list of accessories from the dealer in exchange for waiving the $3k, but they said no.
 

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Yup. I ordered my hybrid 3 months ago, but have been snooping around for a "temporary" Maverick I can get sooner. I talked to a nearby dealer who was happy to order for me at MSRP, but was charging $3000 markup on stock units. I offered a compromise that I would buy a decent list of accessories from the dealer in exchange for waiving the $3k, but they said no.
Not surprised. Crazy to think but $3K markup not outlandish given their current situation where they can't get any or very limited inventory on most models. Then when you add the "hot" maverick and the 800lb gorilla--a whole lot of refi/stimulus money locked up people trying to spend, chasing super low inventories on everything--you get what we've got!

It is a really good time to flip your used car though!
 

atomguy245

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Not surprised. Crazy to think but $3K markup not outlandish given their current situation where they can't get any or very limited inventory on most models. Then when you add the "hot" maverick and the 800lb gorilla--a whole lot of refi/stimulus money locked up people trying to spend, chasing super low inventories on everything--you get what we've got!

It is a really good time to flip your used car though!
They did try to overcome the $3k markup by saying that trade in values are sky high. That's about the only thing they can say about it lol
 

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The local dealer then contacts you, verify's what you want, and sends you a docusign link to approve it. It has all the costs laid out. You docusign it, the dealer docusigns it. You get a copy. You're done.
* * *
Until you've executed a purchase agreement, given the the money, they've executed the agreement, and given you a copy, you have no contract and no recourse--outside of shaming them on social media which they're used to and most don't care.
Good information. Thanks for posting it.

I have a couple of questions I'd like to clear up about the two sections quoted above.

(1) When you talk about docusigning, what exactly are you docusigning? Is it a Buyer's Order or something else?

(2) You mention having a contract when you have "executed a purchase agreement" and "given them the money." Is the purchase agreement you are talking about the Buyer's Order or something else? And when you mention giving them the money, are you talking about final payment/financing or just about the deposit?

Thanks...
 
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Good information. Thanks for posting it.

I have a couple of questions I'd like to clear up about the two sections quoted above.

(1) When you talk about docusigning, what exactly are you docusigning? Is it a Buyer's Order or something else?

(2) You mention having a contract when you have "executed a purchase agreement" and "given them the money." Is the purchase agreement you are talking about the Buyer's Order or something else? And when you mention giving them the money, are you talking about final payment/financing or just about the deposit?

Thanks...
Yes, its the Buyer's Order.

Your other question is related to buying a car already in dealer inventory. Several people have posted issues related to prices quoted, markups, price changes, deposits not honored, etc. I was simply mentioning the only way you have anything guaranteed is with a valid purchase agreement for a specific car at a specific price, with "legal consideration" given (a down payment or complete payment)--until then everything is non-binding unless you have some other type of written agreement you've made which contains all the elements to be considered a legal contract. "Deposits" taken on a vehicle are non-binding and most dealers just give you a hand receipt that says "refundable deposit". Most are very aware of the laws and regulations and are not going to do anything which puts themselves in legal or regulatory jeopardy. Sadly, that does not preclude some of them from behaving badly or unethically.
 

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Your other question is related to buying a car already in dealer inventory. ... "Deposits" taken on a vehicle are non-binding and most dealers just give you a hand receipt that says "refundable deposit".
We've been seeing two kinds of bad behavior so far.

The first is dealers bumping the price on ordered units. I think the best advice on that is to insist on a fully signed Buyer's Order, either docusigning or signing in person. I expect we will see more cases like that as more Mavericks start to roll in.

The second is dealers making multiple deals on inventory units and selling it out from under the would-be buyer. We are starting to see more of that already, which is why I wanted to hear your advice on exactly what kind of document to try to get. Like you, I think a completed purchase agreement with some sort of payment is the best way to go in that situation.

Sadly, my exchanges with people on this forum lead me to believe that many are in positions where they are still vulnerable to these kinds of manipulations.
 
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Hello all--

Have read quite a few posts with similar experiences, difficulties, and frustrations about their Maverick orders.

After a 5 month (from order date) wait, we finally picked up our new Maverick yesterday (one day after it arrived) from the local dealer. Everything as expected on the vehicle, no nonsense on the price, etc. So the process works. You just need to make sure it works for you.

Having spent years in the car business, wanted to share my advice on how to avoid the nonsense:

Some inside baseball. Different dealers get allocations of vehicles "for inventory" based on their historic sales numbers at their location. The factory (Ford) has a formula they use to do the initial allocations of a new model. The other way they get cars is by customer orders by local customers. These usually are seperate and don't count against their "inventory" allocations. For a small dealer these are really important because its the only way they can get more cars.

So, when a car is in tight supply or high demand, your best way of getting a car is to order it. If you buy a car out of inventory, the price is set by the dealer and like everything else will likely reflect supply and demand. If they price it too high no one will buy it. Sadly it may be too high for "you" but someone else has made a different calculus that it works for them. It's not about "fairness" for the dealer, its about economics. It's a rare event where they have a "hot" car and can actually make a profit and when they have a chance to, they will. That's just business.

Given these two options, the best way is to *order* your own car build from dealer/Ford. You get exactly what you want, and you know the price up front. This gives you the most control.

Here was my process to order: You go online at ford.com, you choose your build/options, it shows the prices. You create an order. You get an email from Ford acknowledging this order request and it has been forwarded to your local dealer. The local dealer then contacts you, verify's what you want, and sends you a docusign link to approve it. It has all the costs laid out. You docusign it, the dealer docusigns it. You get a copy. You're done. You will receive an email direct from Ford acknowledging your order. I got mine about 48 hours after I docusigned. you wait. It comes in (eventually). You pay. Happy trails!

From what I've read, in some cases people are (1) never receiving any communication from Ford, or (2) receiving calls from their dealer saying their order got cancelled.

For #1, after you've docusigned and placed your order with the dealer, if you have not received an order acknowledgement within 48 hours **from Ford** then that is a red flag. Call the dealer and find out why. Maybe they didn't place the order--if not find out why right now. If the salesman doesn't know, just call the general manager. Word to the wise: all communication to the dealer in these types of transactions should be via email. This gives you an audit trail if you have an issue, and also makes the dealer aware (if they're smart) that you're savvy enough not to put up with any nonsense.

For #2, after you have an acknowledged order, if there is a problem you will receive an email from Ford. Any communication from the dealer outside of this process (custom order) should be viewed with skepticism.

If you do decide to buy an inventory car from a dealer, its caveat emptor--rules of the jungle apply. It's a seller's market. These dealers have very little inventory due to the chip shortage. Anything they have will be marked up, let alone a hot car like the Maverick. You might find a dealer that "in general" has a no markup policy that has a car in inventory. The irony here is that the nationwide auto contract laws that are designed to protect you (e.g. prevent the dealer from keeping your deposit) also give the dealer an out on accepting the deposit. Until you've executed a purchase agreement, given the the money, they've executed the agreement, and given you a copy, you have no contract and no recourse--outside of shaming them on social media which they're used to and most don't care.

Other: In my experience in the auto business, if the dealer has a "hot" car, they're not going to take a deposit or let people test drive it. It's first person there with the money. If you do find a salesman that asks you to put a deposit down (and has given you the final price) to "hold" a car in high demand, the best thing you can do is make a courtesy call the the general manager, introduce yourself, and just give them a headsup you're coming down, looking forward to doing business with them. On a hot car you have multiple salesman calling "their" customers. So this is Especially important if they're not a local dealer and you're traveling, investing time and money to go get it. Let the GM know--they will either do the right thing by assuring you you're good, or be a Dbag and give you a warning of what your likely heading in to so you can do an abort and save your time (and money). In general-- Kill em' with Kindness! People like to do right by people they like.

Hope this is useful.
Here in Canada we get nothing from Ford directly…goes to dealer then forward
 
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2.5L Hybrid
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LD
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We've been seeing two kinds of bad behavior so far.

The first is dealers bumping the price on ordered units. I think the best advice on that is to insist on a fully signed Buyer's Order, either docusigning or signing in person. I expect we will see more cases like that as more Mavericks start to roll in.

The second is dealers making multiple deals on inventory units and selling it out from under the would-be buyer. We are starting to see more of that already, which is why I wanted to hear your advice on exactly what kind of document to try to get. Like you, I think a completed purchase agreement with some sort of payment is the best way to go in that situation.

Sadly, my exchanges with people on this forum lead me to believe that many are in positions where they are still vulnerable to these kinds of manipulations.
Exactly. These 2 scenarios are what drove me to write my original post and recommend those courses of action.
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