Oil change, Stahlbus quick drain installation and Rival skid plate fail.

[G19Tony]

In preparation for a road trip next month, I did an oil change to full synthetic and installed the Stahlbus quick drain. I was going to install the Rival Skid plate, but working on the rear nut adapters, it started getting claustrophobic under there and I had to get out. I’m going to try again next week, but at the Nellis AFB Auto hobby shop, where I can get a lift for a modest amount per hour.

I like the race ramps.

A proper workspace is important.

The quick drain.

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[dalola]

I've been using a Stahlbus since I got my truck new, it's a great product! I see they have added a chain to connect the cap to the body on the new ones, nice improvement!

 

[ripperAZ]

You’re gonna love the rival skid plate once you get it installed the installation isn’t as easy as it looks, but once on there, it’s way better than the cardboard foam you’re pulling off I gotta get me a Stahlbus…..

 

[Tbone289]

The Stahlbus looks like very high quality kit. The only thing I don't like about these drain valve solutions is that they're even worse at not draining the last remaining OZs out of the bottom of the pan than the stock plug. I know, it's not a big deal, but these are the things that I think about.

 

[LBCOX]

I've thought of those last few ounces as well; where all the junk is at if there is any. I have ramps that i hope will get the rest out. Any old time mechanics out there that have experience as to whether we are unnecessarily concerned?

 

[G19Tony]

I've been using a Stahlbus since I got my truck new, it's a great product! I see they have added a chain to connect the cap to the body on the new ones, nice improvement!

I ordered the new cap and chain separately from Amazon. I liked the idea of a little extra security.

 

[Maverick123]

They should make those drain valves with a 90 degree fitting on the end so the oil flows straight down

PS Nellis AFB is pretty awesome. I was lucky enough to attend Aviation Nation after SEMA a few years ago, it was a great time

 

[Potatomafia]

MTC also convinced me to purchase a Stahlbus drain valve. I have yet to install it haha

The Rival skid plate install isn't difficult. I would call it "fiddly" though. Lots of small adjustments to get the backing nuts, skid plate and hardware to line up. Be careful to not over torque the bolts though; they are pretty small.

 

[G19Tony]

MTC also convinced me to purchase a Stahlbus drain valve. I have yet to install it haha

The Rival skid plate install isn't difficult. I would call it "fiddly" though. Lots of small adjustments to get the backing nuts, skid plate and hardware to line up. Be careful to not over torque the bolts though; they are pretty small.

Yep, the rears are more fiddly than the fronts. I just couldn't stay under there anymore.

I wonder if Rivnuts would be a better idea. If you could find a fit that is no drill.

 

[G19Tony]

I've thought of those last few ounces as well; where all the junk is at if there is any. I have ramps that i hope will get the rest out. Any old time mechanics out there that have experience as to whether we are unnecessarily concerned?

When we were changing the oil, in the Bonanza I used to fly, for a company years ago, My Chief Pilot, who was also an AP/AI would take a water bottle of 100LL drained from the wing, and run it down the oil filler. It came right out the drain, usually a little brown. I wonder if that was his purpose, to wash out the last little bit of old oil. I never did ask. He was an old timer.

 

[Meeka]

I've thought of those last few ounces as well; where all the junk is at if there is any. I have ramps that i hope will get the rest out. Any old time mechanics out there that have experience as to whether we are unnecessarily concerned?

I usual add 1/4 litre of new oil after finished draining and let it drain with the old oil before tightening everything up, just me.

 

[Tbone289]

I've thought of those last few ounces as well; where all the junk is at if there is any. I have ramps that i hope will get the rest out. Any old time mechanics out there that have experience as to whether we are unnecessarily concerned?

It really isn't a problem. Just be sure to run it before you drain so that hopefully any insolubles will be in suspension while you drain.

When we were changing the oil, in the Bonanza I used to fly, for a company years ago, My Chief Pilot, who was also an AP/AI would take a water bottle of 100LL drained from the wing, and run it down the oil filler. It came right out the drain, usually a little brown. I wonder if that was his purpose, to wash out the last little bit of old oil. I never did ask. He was an old timer.

I do the same with 12oz or so of the cheapest new oil I have on hand. That's a bit safer than diluting it with fuel. These drain valves effectively raise the lowest point of the drain higher off the floor of the sump and some of that fuel will be left behind. Most of the factory drains even don't drain the sump 100%.

 

[dalola]

The Stahlbus valve does not impede a complete oil drain in any way.

 

[LBCOX]

Dealership gave me 4 free oil changes & tire rotations; I'll take that, but based on other posts, I'll double check the undercarriage when i get home from each

 

[Tbone289]

The Stahlbus valve does not impede a complete oil drain in any way.

Stahlbus doesn't necessarily agree with you:

https://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/se...lete-oil-flow-out-through-the-oil-drain-valve

If an inclined drain hole has an insert that is not removed at drain time, that insert will effectively decrease the drain hole inner diameter a couple of millimeters. That can have the effect of leaving that couple of millimeters of oil in the pan. Can you explain why the Maverick drain hole is not affected in that way?

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