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Havick

Havick

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Hi Kens2022. I have a little over 6,000 miles and I still love them. The truck handles and rides exactly how I wanted. I had cut my bump stops when I put the H&R springs in, but I kept the leftover pieces, so when I installed the GWR springs I glued them back together, so they are basically OEM height. I’ve never had an issue with the bump stops. I didn’t get the sway bar, as I had already purchased the Steeda sway bar. I have heard the GWR sway bar is a quality piece and solid, unlike the Steeda, which is hollow.
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Kens2022

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Hi Kens2022. I have a little over 6,000 miles and I still love them. The truck handles and rides exactly how I wanted. I had cut my bump stops when I put the H&R springs in, but I kept the leftover pieces, so when I installed the GWR springs I glued them back together, so they are basically OEM height. I’ve never had an issue with the bump stops. I didn’t get the sway bar, as I had already purchased the Steeda sway bar. I have heard the GWR sway bar is a quality piece and solid, unlike the Steeda, which is hollow.
Thanks, i basically have the same truck as you. i got the BAP area51 and it looks good just with the stock black 18s. i seen you did the camber bolts. is that true?
 
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Your truck will look sweet. Make sure to post up some pics. I’ve seen some guys just use the OEM bolts, but I didn’t want to pay for an alignment, only to find it was out of spec, then order the bolts and have to pay to align it again. Plus this way I’ve got a sheet showing it is within spec, in case of an unrelated warranty issue.
 

Automan21

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Mav 1.jpg


So after trying out the H&R super sport springs and not really enjoying the ride during my commute to work, I swapped them out for the Good-Win racing springs, which are actually made by progress springs. To be honest the H&R seemed to ride better or I just got used to them, after putting some more miles on them, but I just hated how going over a bump they would clunk, plus my wife hated the ride. Install was pretty straight forward. Right away I liked how the GWR springs actually had some preload on the front springs, with the H&R's there was none, which made me think that is where the clunking came from, but upon removal and inspection I could see that some coils contacted each other. The ride quality of the GWR springs are pretty close to a factory ride, I regularly drive my wife's FX4 maverick and I would describe the ride as pretty much like stock, but with a more planted feeling and better handling. The ride was so much better then the H&R's that I was actually driving looking for pot holes, bumps, train tracks to sample the ride quality and listen for noises. I am very impressed with these springs and I'm happy I made the change.

Mav 3.jpg


Here is a pic of the GWR springs compared to factory.

Mav 4 (2).jpg


And GWR compared to H&R front.

Mav 5.jpg


And GWR compared to H&R rear.

Mav 6.jpg


I think the H&R's would be best for someone looking for the lowest ride, great cornering, and perhaps if your commute is short and/or on smooth roads. Perhaps they would ride better with different shocks/struts such as the FX4(it seems to me people with the FX4 package didn't mind the ride) or with aftermarket shocks & struts when they become available.
I loved the look but they just fell a bit short on ride quality and I think it would have been terrible once winter hits.
Nice! What wheels are you running, what size tires?
 
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Havick

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How’s the ride been on the good wins? I have a set of eibach lowering springs and 20” wheels for my 22 awd maverick that I haven’t put on because I been reading some reviews of people saying the eibachs are alittle stiffer and also bouncy over some bumps. I really don’t know of at my age I want to deal with a rougher rode lol so I haven’t installed anything yet. Wondering how the good wins would compare to the eibachs.
 

NY DIY GUY

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How’s the ride been on the good wins? I have a set of eibach lowering springs and 20” wheels for my 22 awd maverick that I haven’t put on because I been reading some reviews of people saying the eibachs are alittle stiffer and also bouncy over some bumps. I really don’t know of at my age I want to deal with a rougher rode lol so I haven’t installed anything yet. Wondering how the good wins would compare to the eibachs.
I'm not the original poster but I have had the goodwin suspension package installed for about a year now and I think the combo is great. Mind you I am also just using the BAP 18 inch wheels not 20 inches like you plan to. I'm sure with the 20 inch rims and less sidewall the ride with be rougher than what I have but it sure would look nicer and probably corner better due to less sidewall flex. I drive in rough nyc streets daily and it isn't to bad with all the potholes than my previous ride on Eibachs. FYI My other ride had 245/45 on the Eibachs vs 225/60 on the Maverick. My other ride was also a GS350 which is a sports sedan not a pick up truck. I do all my work myself and I'll tell you it took me about 2 hours to install the springs. Most of the work is doing the fronts. The rears took like 30 min. I would just install them and see how it feels and if you want softer over bumps just swap them out. The Goodwins are said to have lower spring rates and don't ride on the bumpstops so it should ride better than the eibachs.
 

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I'm not the original poster but I have had the goodwin suspension package installed for about a year now and I think the combo is great. Mind you I am also just using the BAP 18 inch wheels not 20 inches like you plan to. I'm sure with the 20 inch rims and less sidewall the ride with be rougher than what I have but it sure would look nicer and probably corner better due to less sidewall flex. I drive in rough nyc streets daily and it isn't to bad with all the potholes than my previous ride on Eibachs. FYI My other ride had 245/45 on the Eibachs vs 225/60 on the Maverick. My other ride was also a GS350 which is a sports sedan not a pick up truck. I do all my work myself and I'll tell you it took me about 2 hours to install the springs. Most of the work is doing the fronts. The rears took like 30 min. I would just install them and see how it feels and if you want softer over bumps just swap them out. The Goodwins are said to have lower spring rates and don't ride on the bumpstops so it should ride better than the eibachs.
Ok thank you. I also went with 235/50r20 tires for alittle more side wall that will help out plus also fill up the wheel well gap too. I think I will sell the eibachs and buy the goodwins. I appreciate your feedback. Also can you post some pics of your maverick?
 

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Ok thank you. I also went with 235/50r20 tires for alittle more side wall that will help out plus also fill up the wheel well gap too. I think I will sell the eibachs and buy the goodwins. I appreciate your feedback. Also can you post some pics of your maverick?
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Ford Maverick Lowered with Good-Win Racing lowering springs (+ comparison to H&R springs) 20240621_133611
Ford Maverick Lowered with Good-Win Racing lowering springs (+ comparison to H&R springs) 20240621_133647
 
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I don't have any complaints about the Goodwin springs. I really like them, the ride is very close to factory, but sportier. I regularly drive my wife's 2022 Maverick and there isn't a huge trade off. I tried the H&R super sports and I didn't care for the ride at all.
 
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SpecialK1024

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Did either of you that have the Goodwins setup need rear camber or toe arms? Both your trucks look awesome, and I'm gonna order this kit soon. Thanks!
 
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I didn't do anything with the rear control arms. There weren't any aftermarket options available at the time when I lowered it and the camber was only out by a little bit. I just checked my alignment sheet and both sides are -1.7 and it looks like the suggested range is 0.03 to -1.6 degrees. The toe was within range.
It seems to be more of a concern with the trucks that are lowered with coil overs.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply! That will be nice to save some money - those parts are more than the springs. I thought the same thing, that the lower you go the more they become necessary. Since the Goodwins are on the high side of all the kits out there, I figured they werent needed, but its great to hear from people that actually have them.
 

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Did either of you that have the Goodwins setup need rear camber or toe arms? Both your trucks look awesome, and I'm gonna order this kit soon. Thanks!
Sorry for the late response... I've been busy. Didn't even do a alignment after the drop since I don't care for the oem tires. I'm sure it is a little off but it doesn't pull at all and drives as it did before I dropped it. I will get a alignment once I run down the oem tires and get something better on the vehicle.
 

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Thanks to both of you for the info.

I also asked Goodwin directly. Their reply is below - but they said basically the same thing you guys did. Thanks again for the help. I ordered my kit this morning.

"There is no adjustment available on the rear suspension of the Maverick. When we lowered our Maverick, the truck gained about -1.1 degrees of camber naturally, as well as a little bit of toe-in. For us that works great. That setup helps the Maverick handle more like a sports car (sport truck?) and we are happy with that, so we did not change any of the arms.
Some folks want the suspension to be at the stock specs, so that's where the arms come in. The Maverick does not have any way to make adjustments with the stock arms. These arms are used if you want to get the camber/toe specs back to the OEM range. Our recommendation would be to install the springs first, check the alignment numbers to see where they land, and then drive the truck and decide if you need to change the alignment back to OEM. Whether or not they are needed is up to you."
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