Hybrid max amp size

[My1stFord]

I'm researching audio upgrades for my hybrid and am confused on the max amp size. Because there's no traditional alternator, I'm unsure what I can install. Anyone know if a relatively efficient, 1000 watt amp would be supported by this electrical system?

Sponsored

 

[Red Ryder]

The amp efficiency is key, as the big concern is the power requirement rather than the output.

I would suspect a 1000 watt amp would draw in excess 75A-80A.

Crutchfield's recommendation for hybrids is not to exceed 30A, per this article: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IV0c08eFD7q/learn/tips-for-upgrading-the-audio-in-your-hybrid.html

In my case, I added a Key 200.4 (20A) and the HS-10 Hideaway (15A) for a combined potential maximum of 35A.

I ran this combo successfully for nine months without issue.

 

[Darnon]

I have a 1000-watt MB Quart amp and Key 200.4 running just fine.

IIRC the upfitter guide suggests the DC/DC converter output is somewhere in the region of 180-200 amps so in the realm of most good alternators. Although considerably less excess capacity due to the small 12V battery. Also be aware if connecting to the battery's terminal block there's a 200 amp fuse between the cable and the terminal itself.

 

[Automate]

I have a 1000-watt MB Quart amp and Key 200.4 running just fine.

IIRC the upfitter guide suggests the DC/DC converter output is somewhere in the region of 180-200 amps so in the realm of most good alternators. Although considerably less excess capacity due to the small 12V battery. Also be aware if connecting to the battery's terminal block there's a 200 amp fuse between the cable and the terminal itself.

From the shop manual, the DC-DC converter can put out up to 265 amps https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-12v-battery-relocation.25460/post-478862

But as Darnon points out, only 200 amps can go to the battery. The hybrid has 140 amps in fuses for resistance heating if needed when the the engine is cold or off. This resistance heating is generally rarely used.

 

[rallyshark]

I know there are people on here with hybrids running multiple amps with the actual fuses on the amps being around 100amps total with no issues. I think as long as you keep it reasonable with total fuse rating being under 100 amps, you'll probably be okay. A good class D amp will be able to do 600-700 watts with around a 50 amp fuse. I have an Audison SR5.600 five channel that is rated at 75 x 4 plus 550 x 1 wrms at 2 ohms, and it has two 25A fuses in the amp. It is an incredibly efficient amp though. Admittedly, I'm currently fighting with this amp to get my install finished(rear channels are being weird). I may end up using my old faithful Soundstream which is rated at 75x4 plus 350x1 at 2 ohms, and it has a 40A fuse.

 

[My1stFord]

Thanks for the info everyone. I'll lean towards the conservative approach and try to stick around 40 amps. That Key amp is intriguing, with a built in DSP. I'm curious what speakers you matched it with.

Also, regarding the 200 amp fuse on the battery terminal, I'd assume any connections should be made on the battery side of that fuse.

Thanks again, happy Mavericking.

 

[My1stFord]

Just came across this video today discussing this exact topic.

 

[My1stFord]

From the shop manual, the DC-DC converter can put out up to 265 amps https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-12v-battery-relocation.25460/post-478862

But as Darnon points out, only 200 amps can go to the battery. The hybrid has 140 amps in fuses for resistance heating if needed when the the engine is cold or off. This resistance heating is generally rarely used.

Any thoughts on why Crutchfield suggests limiting the amp to 30 amps when the converter can put out 200 amps? Is that all related to the small battery and/or heater elements?

 

[rallyshark]

They're probably just trying to cover their arse, in case somebody does something stupid. That way they can say they didn't recommend it. Truth be told, you'd could go double or even triple that 30A recommendation and be perfectly fine. That is, assuming you use an actual turn on lead for the amps(fuse 6), and do not let them operate in signal detect. With signal detect, they'll turn on when you don't want them to and drain that little 12v battery, because the truck sends voltage to the speakers, even when the radio isn't on. Seriously, open the doors=amp on for a few minutes with signal detect.

 

[Automate]

Any thoughts on why Crutchfield suggests limiting the amp to 30 amps when the converter can put out 200 amps? Is that all related to the small battery and/or heater elements?

It could be because the 265 amps is only available while the vehicle is "on". Meaning the engine is available to be started and run when needed to keep the high voltage battery charged. If the vehicle is not "on", then the high voltage battery is not providing power to the DC-DC convert and its output is zero and you are depending completely upon only the small 12V battery.

Or they are thinking worst case scenario when all those resistance heaters are also turned on.

 

[Red Ryder]

They're probably just trying to cover their arse, in case somebody does something stupid. That way they can say they didn't recommend it. Truth be told, you'd could go double or even triple that 30A recommendation and be perfectly fine. That is, assuming you use an actual turn on lead for the amps(fuse 6), and do not let them operate in signal detect. With signal detect, they'll turn on when you don't want them to and drain that little 12v battery, because the truck sends voltage to the speakers, even when the radio isn't on. Seriously, open the doors=amp on for a few minutes with signal detect.

Bingo, you described exactly what happened related to my dealership experience. I had the Key 200.4 in signal detect mode (DC Offset), the HS-10 Hideaway was in 12V remote, but controlled by the Key.

When any of the doors were opened, the Key and HS-10 were turned on for a few minutes. Unfortunately, the service tech saw this "parasitic" load and documented it as the cause of my "no-crank, no start" issues. Both had been in the vehicle for 9 months and >20,000 miles without issue.

Even after removing the Hideaway and moving the Key to ignition-switched power, I could never convince a Ford Service tech or advisor that the "speaker behind the rear set" as documented in their service logs, wasn't the problem. The real issue was the harness (TSB 22-2340). A data-logging multimeter indicated the draw was less than four minutes, almost exactly as you described.

In my case, the battery never got drained, but the current draw condition was identical.

 

[colinl]

Bingo, you described exactly what happened related to my dealership experience. I had the Key 200.4 in signal detect mode (DC Offset), the HS-10 Hideaway was in 12V remote, but controlled by the Key.

When any of the doors were opened, the Key and HS-10 were turned on for a few minutes. Unfortunately, the service tech saw this "parasitic" load and documented it as the cause of my "no-crank, no start" issues. Both had been in the vehicle for 9 months and >20,000 miles without issue.

Even after removing the Hideaway and moving the Key to ignition-switched power, I could never convince a Ford Service tech or advisor that the "speaker behind the rear set" as documented in their service logs, wasn't the problem. The real issue was the harness (TSB 22-2340). A data-logging multimeter indicated the draw was less than four minutes, almost exactly as you described.

In my case, the battery never got drained, but the current draw condition was identical.

Frustrating, but unfortunately not surprising. If you have your Maverick serviced for charging or starting issues, it's probably a good idea to pull your carfi fuse(s) before you take it in.

I use BCM fuse #3 with an add-on fuse and traditional blue wire remote power-on for my Kicker key 500.1. Signal sense / DC offset energizes when you approach the vehicle so it can be on a lot. It actually might be a drain, some folks have mentioned moving from it to regular 12v switched.

 

[Adam1300]

I have been running two audio control Lc-4=800 and a audio control 1=1.1500 watt amps and a audio control dsp. i have had for about 8 months now with no problems. just have to make sure you use a remote wire to fuse box. i had it hooked up where when u turn car on amps come on through speakers cant think what that connection is called now. i did have problems when it was hooked up that way drained the battery. also i am not using that much power from sub amp since i only have one 10 w-6. Hope that helps

 

[Rmnkys]

I have been running two audio control Lc-4=800 and a audio control 1=1.1500 watt amps and a audio control dsp. i have had for about 8 months now with no problems. just have to make sure you use a remote wire to fuse box. i had it hooked up where when u turn car on amps come on through speakers cant think what that connection is called now. i did have problems when it was hooked up that way drained the battery. also i am not using that much power from sub amp since i only have one 10 w-6. Hope that helps

Would love to see the system you have in your truck

 

[colinl]

Would love to see the system you have in your truck

I'm curious also. two lc4-800 could drive at least two sets of components.

Sponsored