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- #16
From what I gather its copper wire to a aluminium connector. But no first hand experience.
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Just make sure you insulate the clamps so it doesn't contact with anything.. you don't want any sparks in there..
wrap your clamp with a non conductor.. there is a reason why ford put a cap
water do get there too. If you can find plastic clamp it is even better.
wrap your clamp with a non conductor.. there is a reason why ford put a cap
water do get there too. If you can find plastic clamp it is even better.
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- #18
That's what I would do if it wasn't under warranty. Did you do yours? Seems worthwhile, since anecdotally anyway quite a few seem to be failing, see Gullzway's post.
Cheers.
Are those the stock clamps?! We can do A LOT better. I work with high voltage (in excess of 105k with decent power) and there are plenty of off the shelf connectors and I've fabricated plenty too.Having read the posts regarding the failed positive battery cable termination causing issues I wanted to have a plan b before going on a several day trip with my hybrid. Should any of us need to be thinking along these lines at this point, no.
What should be happening at this point is Ford having determined possibly affected VIN's, reached out to those that fall withing this group, and offered a temporary "fix" until the cables become available and installation scheduled. What may happen is the company waits out the warranty period just repairing the ones that crop up, but I hope this isn't the direction they go. Anyhow...
I made a simple clamp for the affected cable termination from a readily available item, to provide me some peace of mind when away from home (and ward off evil spirits). 3/8 Loomex connectors from Home Depot, cable clamping portion cut off, one side drilled out to provide clearance for screw threads, screws filed down a little. This may provide enough clamping force on the termination to keep it going in the event of a failure, even installed over the insulation. (Covered the stud and exposed termination with electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding, going to leave it on. Of course you SHOULD remove the battery positive clamp first.) Clamp JUST tucks in.
Keeping a jump box in the truck as well, but would rather have a somewhat stable cable as well, since if the termination is bad it's going to do funky things with the electronics and could drop out the necessary relays completely while driving. Sounds like some folks have already experienced this.
If anyone has a tidier idea I would like to have something better, please weigh in.
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- #21
Stock? Don't understand.
What I showed in my post was a bodge clamp I made to have on hand should the crimped and "soldered" original connection fail while on a road trip. Please advise what you would use, part numbers as well please.
Cheers.
I haven't because I think the paranoia is outscaling the rate of occurrence. If it was especially prevalent there'd likely be a TSB advising on it or Customer Satisfaction Program to inspect and address. Nor should it be a warranty concern if you properly address the root cause since there won't be any resultant problems. Versus a bodge that has the potential of exacerbating the problem in the first place or creating a poorer connection that burns up the harness.
There's as many reporting block heater leaks but you don't seem to be a proponent dumping a bottle of stop leak in as a preventative bodge.
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- #23
I wasn't suggesting anyone should place a clamp on the problem area, just indicating how I planned to address it, as a temporary measure, should the termination fail on my truck while on a road trip. I believe there is a TSB on the issue. Crimping a termination on would obviously be better, but that won't help much while days away from home in the middle of the night. Not sure how applying external pressure can create a poorer connection that burns up the harness, but operating the vehicle with a partial/loose connection could do damage though.
Make your own adventure
.Cheers.
The actual terminal is a flat plate with the wire flattened and soldered against it. You're using a rounded clamp applying pressure through the heatshrink jacket. So the pressure is uneven and potentially inconsistent. The result could be a failure state where you don't lose power but its arcing and further deteriorating the joint. High amperage + high resistance is a recipe for scorching/fire.
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