How much is “Local” worth to you

[CASD57]

I tried to go local, even placed an order, they're too incompetent to know how to get my order verified so I went way out of state, had my order verified the same day, saving a few hundred. Selling my trade to carvana since they pay way more than dealerships.

Those online buyers are about $4-5000 under KBB avg. for my truck So it's trade-in time.. for me.

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[asel3121]

Did you get around the dealer upcharge fee( $800-$1100)?

These are the only additional fees I had aside from the actual truck and selected options:

Documentary Fee: $699.95
State & Local Tax: $1845.13
Total license & Fees: $375.50

 

[Down]

And more Germaine to my question: what % has that saved you? Probably about 4% if that’s the case then list 3-4% or 4-5% whatever feels truer to you.

This is probably where, as others have mentioned, the imprecise nature of your question makes this a really hard question to answer accurately.
The percentage one is going to save can only be calculated once you know what they were going to pay otherwise. And since price is a HUGE variable with these, we're not all starting with the same starting price, so you've kind of proposed a trick question.

For someone like you, who has said your local option was "MSRP +4%", Chapman is going to save you a ton of money. I wouldn't even consider paying this price, I'd have literally laughed out loud at them and wished em a good day. But still, that was your best option, I guess.
For someone like me, who had ZERO problem arranging "Invoice + ~$200" pricing (literally only talked to one dealer), Chapman is going to save me, at best, less than a thousand and introduce some risk.

So, there really is no simple answer to your question, given the way you worded it.
Because in my situation, non-local would have to probably go to 7% less than invoice for me to start considering it.
But if I'm in your situation, and my options are really that bad? Chapman would start looking pretty darn appealing at 1% or more over invoice.

That's a 8% spread right there, meaning that comparison is worthless. Of course, asking the same question and using the total amount saved would ALSO be misleading data, since not everyone is starting out from the same optioned vehicle and etc. but given the number of sleazy dealer moves out there today? It might almost be more accurate than going by %.

Regardless, I mean, your thread, whatever, not trying to complain; I don't care. But you've seemed to not understand others that brought this up, so thought I might help shed some light on their point; there's no real answers/genuine data that can be highlighted by the data you're pulling here.

GIGO

 

[Ron Neal]

I'm buying local because they said MSRP and I' don't see a big bargain for me to order from back east to Idaho... maybe $800, For $800 I'll keep it local even if they don't deserve it.
One doesn't communicate well at all..
and one has no idea what's going on but thinks he does..... (Typical Ford Dealership) He says they are not scheduling yet ?????? He wanted to argue about it and I want my Maverick sooner than later so I dropped it... plus I need a decent deal on my trade-in (At least KBB avg.) to keep my payment low.
Sorry, probably more info than ya need

For what its worth when sold my 20 Ranger KBB gave me the worst offer. Carmax was better but when you enter the store and look at the sales side it looks like they are leading sheep to slaughter. Carvana gave me the best offer and it was a 30 day offer not the 7 day one others offered. I was going to go with Carvana but a local non Ford dealer offered a little more so sold it locally.

 

[Rkbrumbelow]

This is probably where, as others have mentioned, the imprecise nature of your question makes this a really hard question to answer accurately.
The percentage one is going to save can only be calculated once you know what they were going to pay otherwise. And since price is a HUGE variable with these, we're not all starting with the same starting price, so you've kind of proposed a trick question.

For someone like you, who has said your local option was "MSRP +4%", Chapman is going to save you a ton of money. I wouldn't even consider paying this price, I'd have literally laughed out loud at them and wished em a good day. But still, that was your best option, I guess.
For someone like me, who had ZERO problem arranging "Invoice + ~$200" pricing (literally only talked to one dealer), Chapman is going to save me, at best, less than a thousand and introduce some risk.

So, there really is no simple answer to your question, given the way you worded it.
Because in my situation, non-local would have to probably go to 7% less than invoice for me to start considering it.
But if I'm in your situation, and my options are really that bad? Chapman would start looking pretty darn appealing at 1% or more over invoice.

That's a 8% spread right there, meaning that comparison is worthless. Of course, asking the same question and using the total amount saved would ALSO be misleading data, since not everyone is starting out from the same optioned vehicle and etc. but given the number of sleazy dealer moves out there today? It might almost be more accurate than going by %.

Regardless, I mean, your thread, whatever, not trying to complain; I don't care. But you've seemed to not understand others that brought this up, so thought I might help shed some light on their point; there's no real answers/genuine data that can be highlighted by the data you're pulling here.

GIGO

No my wording is very precise you are simply trying to read more into it than is there. Again in the simplest terms possible:

What is the % difference it would take to push you from local to remote.

msrp has nothing to do with the question, invoice, similarly has nothing to do with it.

I have suggested that one way to determine that is to look at your best local offer and figure out what you would have to save on that to go remote, but that is just an option.

 

[grumpyunk]

Taxes will be local anyway. At least every state I know of is going to get their share. In Georgia we have some weird laws regarding vehicle taxes and what you pay in taxes has little correlation to what you paid for the vehicle. Instead the taxes are based on what the State thinks your vehicle is worth. Apparently this went into effect in 2013

The 'property tax' value is whatever the tax guys decide, and is paid in full at the time of purchase instead of an annual depreciation with commensurate tax amount. IOW, pay once, and done with property tax in GA. The tag fee is also value based, so will be high and decrease over time.
Last thing assessed is the sales tax, which is 6% plus any SPLOST taxes. (special purpose local option sales tax). The amount of these will be collected when you apply for title, registration and a license plate. Normally done by the selling dealer, but I think it will be done by the CD dealer as s/he will know the local rates, etc. Ugh. Can't wait. You will not get out of the paperwork office without a roughly 10% extra payment, I think.
I am in Canton, so have Cherokee County tax rates for SPLOST, the others are State-wide rates, I think.
tom

ADDED:
I went with Chapman because the local dealers wanted a couple $k over MSRP, and the very local did not want to have anything to do with a CD. I figured with my horse trading skills, I would never get a deal 4% below invoice, and all local were MSRP++. I did not figure out the actual dollar figures. Don't care as I know how well I can do normally, expecting worse on a 'hot' vehicle that is in demand.

tom

 

[Rkbrumbelow]

The 'property tax' value is whatever the tax guys decide, and is paid in full at the time of purchase instead of an annual depreciation with commensurate tax amount. IOW, pay once, and done with property tax in GA. The tag fee is also value based, so will be high and decrease over time.
Last thing assessed is the sales tax, which is 6% plus any SPLOST taxes. (special purpose local option sales tax). The amount of these will be collected when you apply for title, registration and a license plate. Normally done by the selling dealer, but I think it will be done by the CD dealer as s/he will know the local rates, etc. Ugh. Can't wait. You will not get out of the paperwork office without a roughly 10% extra payment, I think.
I am in Canton, so have Cherokee County tax rates for SPLOST, the others are State-wide rates, I think.
tom

ADDED:
I went with Chapman because the local dealers wanted a couple $k over MSRP, and the very local did not want to have anything to do with a CD. I figured with my horse trading skills, I would never get a deal 4% below invoice, and all local were MSRP++. I did not figure out the actual dollar figures. Don't care as I know how well I can do normally, expecting worse on a 'hot' vehicle that is in demand.

tom

You basically cover in more detail what TAVT is. Thank you for sharing it with everyone not familiar with GA’s weird tax system. (I am not being sarcastic I mean it truthfully) our tax system has nothing to do with what we pay for the vehicle, everything to do with what the state thinks we should have paid.

 

[CASD57]

For what its worth when sold my 20 Ranger KBB gave me the worst offer. Carmax was better but when you enter the store and look at the sales side it looks like they are leading sheep to slaughter. Carvana gave me the best offer and it was a 30 day offer not the 7 day one others offered. I was going to go with Carvana but a local non Ford dealer offered a little more so sold it locally.

I got $19700 trade-In on KBB and Vroom-Carmax-Carvana were all in the $14500-$15500 area...Way below Kellys Blue Book
NADA goes Rough $21500 to Avg. $22950 Trade_in
Mine is at least Avg. Trade-In value
I would be happy with $19500-20500 area

 

[CASD57]

Tom is @Dealerinsider here, it is Chapman Ford in PA. And his contact data is in the 4% under invoice thread. Sent email via dm to you

If got 4% under I could probably move up to a Loaded XLT AWD or a Lariet AWD

 

[Dnedzel]

Assuming I feel I was treated fairly in the purchase, I would buy local. I want that dealership to make a fair profit so they stay in business so they will be available for warranty and other service.

 

[Down]

No my wording is very precise you are simply trying to read more into it than is there. Again in the simplest terms possible:

What is the % difference it would take to push you from local to remote.

msrp has nothing to do with the question, invoice, similarly has nothing to do with it.

I have suggested that one way to determine that is to look at your best local offer and figure out what you would have to save on that to go remote, but that is just an option.

Sure, in a sense it's a clear question, but your proposed answers (not counting the 3 open ended ones) have a 12% spread and I just introduced an 8% margin of error with my use case. I guess in 2021, that's close enough for most people on a poll but for anyone that's genuinely curious about the topic, it doesn't tell them much at all. Which, FWIW is a shame, because I think you're part of the way there to a really intriguing question. It'd probably be a good thing for consumers to start drawing lines in the sand over "how much local consumers will take" before jumping online. That kinda info could ABSOLUTELY steer the behavior of many dealerships in a better way. Luckily, one of the things about message boards is that the same questions get recycled over and over. It'll just be a matter of time before your original question is posed again in a slightly different way that provides better insight. So, like I originally said: "whatever".

Because even if that question never gets answered? That's OK too, since we've at least answered another question here today:

Question: "What would you have to say to Rkbrumbelow to twist their panties enough for them to send a bitchy private message to you?"
Answer: Apparently, what I said in my previous post would do it.

You really should calm down though, pumpkin. So I'll bow out here, as I have much better things to do than go back and forth with someone that has skin as thin as yours. But seriously, if what I said earlier really bothered you that much, you must be SUPER NEW to the Internet. Good luck, this is prolly gonna be a REALLY tough transition for ya!

 

[Rexus99]

Time mattered. Around here there is no markup only different handling fees. Filled out online order and was called by local dealer. Actually 60 miles away. Was told it would be spring. This was end of June. Called a smaller dealer and my choice is scheduled for Sept. 20 build.

 

[Ron Neal]

I got $19700 trade-In on KBB and Vroom-Carmax-Carvana were all in the $14500-$15500 area...Way below Kellys Blue Book
NADA goes Rough $21500 to Avg. $22950 Trade_in
Mine is at least Avg. Trade-In value
I would be happy with $19500-20500 area

Interesting and thats a big difference, funny that mine was reversed with KBB 2.5k below the others. I was ok with the sale price on mine since it netted me a $3300 profit from a truck I bought 8 months ago. I could've held out for more money but don't know when it would sell and how long this bubble will last. FYI the KBB offer to buy my Ranger was well below their trade in numbers.

 

[CASD57]

Sure, in a sense it's a clear question, but your proposed answers (not counting the 3 open ended ones) have a 12% spread and I just introduced an 8% margin of error with my use case. I guess in 2021, that's close enough for most people on a poll but for anyone that's genuinely curious about the topic, it doesn't tell them much at all. Which, FWIW is a shame, because I think you're part of the way there to a really intriguing question. It'd probably be a good thing for consumers to start drawing lines in the sand over "how much local consumers will take" before jumping online. That kinda info could ABSOLUTELY steer the behavior of many dealerships in a better way. Luckily, one of the things about message boards is that the same questions get recycled over and over. It'll just be a matter of time before your original question is posed again in a slightly different way that provides better insight. So, like I originally said: "whatever".

Because even if that question never gets answered? That's OK too, since we've at least answered another question here today:

Question: "What would you have to say to Rkbrumbelow to twist their panties enough for them to send a bitchy private message to you?"
Answer: Apparently, what I said in my previous post would do it.

You really should calm down though, pumpkin. So I'll bow out here, as I have much better things to do than go back and forth with someone that has skin as thin as yours. But seriously, if what I said earlier really bothered you that much, you must be SUPER NEW to the Internet. Good luck, this is prolly gonna be a REALLY tough transition for ya!

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