Help connecting accessory power to battery under seat in the hybrid please

[jpv74]

hello all....I searched the electrical forum and didnt find the answer I was searching for. I am installing a Curt T connector trailer hitch wiring harness. Instead of running the power wire the entire length of the vehicle I want to just connect to the battery under the seat. To me this makes better sense. Well round 1 was met with some head scratchers......I retreated with my head hung low....but will return for certain victory. First head scratcher....holy crap removing the plastic trim around the battery was a huge PIA.....I basically had to deform it to get it out. Once it was out I thought this is gunna be easy....I will remove that nut on the positive battery post and install my ring terminal there for a proper install........nope......the nut does not come off of that post.....I guess you guys already know that. For the life of me I have no idea whats stopping that nut from coming off.....but I guess the Ford engineers got me on that one. Ok...plan B.....I see two other posts on the side of the terminal.....One with a nut and one larger one without. Problem here is the one with the nut spins so I again cannot remove the nut.....I have seen it removed in some U haul vids so I know it will come off but I dont like that there is no bolt head for me to tighten that bolt and nut.....so if it is press fitted and spinning.....I dont like that connection....yes it will work....but I would prefer it was solid vs spinning. So plan C is the extra large post that does look welded and has no nut. The large post is a bit tricky because I will need a freak like ring terminal size with tiny gauge wire sleeve.....usually they dont make them like that. What do you wanna bet that after I get my freak terminal in place over the large post and I tighten the crap out of it that the welds holding that stud will give way. Plan D.....give up my hopes of the short wire run and just run the damn wire all the way to the front of the truck. Now that requires removing full length under body covers that you need to pull up on a curb or use two jacks.....or some other creative way to pull the panels and run the wire. I did have my truck on ramps but I cant to the entire run with the rear wheels on ramps so I would have to first do rear wheels on ramps then finish with front on ramps....PIA! Is anyone still reading this? Yes its long....very long.......but if you did the same thing that I did you will understand. I am a perfectionist so I want a really really good connection made for these lights. My first choice is the battery under the seat. I am thinking that one of you can tell me how to get the nut off of the positive battery terminal.......or I might use a jam nut on the alternate smaller stud with nut...............If your still here........tip your beverage up.....you have earned it! Yes I could have used a U style connector on the positive battery terminal but ultimately I want a dang ring terminal installed.

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[Dad]

Am I missing something here? Will the Curtis connect to your already wired 4 pin or 7 pin trailer electrical connection?

 

[jpv74]

The Curt T connector trailer hitch wiring harness is a plug and play kit with no splicing at all. I wont bore you with another super long post but basically you remove both tail lights and snap in this Curt T connector kit and then all you have to connect is one freakin' power wire with built in fuse.....it is this power wire that I am asking about. Once the Curt connector has 12volts it will power up the Curt 4 pin connector that is part of the kit.

 

[Sticks]

The bed has 12V power ports specifically for aftermarket accessories, as shown here. There's no need to run more than a foot or two of wire.

 

[jpv74]

Yes I do know about those wires and of course they would be extremely handy. For some reason Curt and U haul do not recommend using those wires for the power source. I think we can all agree that they will work but maybe the issue is that Ford has power to the bed wires to stay on for a set period of time after the truck is turned off or something like that. The run to the battery is no problem and very close to where I am working. Now these lights are on the important side of things because these are running lights...brake lights...and blinkers and that's why I want this to be a bullet proof connection and not anything that could rattle loose or such. Under the hood has the same size large post as the side of the battery does. I thought about it last night and I think I might use a ring terminal to the large post on the side of the battery. Instead of torquing and possibly breaking the spot weld on that post I can use a jam nut set up on it to secure the ring terminal. I do appreciate your replies and I am open minded to suggestions about the very best connection to any of the battery post options.

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